Below link is the Cramsey Innovations Overthrow Transbrake button. I decided to give it a try because it provided additional delay that I needed over my Biondo Terminator button.

I raced a borrowed car in July & had very good results with it. The Terminator button was mounted horizontally off the dash & released to the rear. While I have never used this mount position before, I felt comfortable with it.

Anyway, I decided to buy & mount the Overthrow button in my car in the same fashion above. I practiced with it in the car to get the feel & it was just different. While it has some neat & unique features like the spring, shaft bearing & magnets. When I used it, time runs & eliminations. It did slow the RT, but my RT variance was not acceptable. It could be the mounting position & I plan to try it in my normal position.

I tried the Overthrow at the Bracket Finals. Probably the worst place to be testing something new. Needless to say, with about 10 track hits with it. I knew it wasn't going to work. I had 1st & 2nd elimination rounds on it; 3rd round I switched to my well-adjusted/massaged Terminator button. Baaaam....my reactions/variance went back to where they should have been, won plenty of rounds & even got into the money.

I will revisit the Overthrow button in the future mounted like or close to how my Terminator is mounted.

2BKING is always trying/testing to improve!


https://www.cramseyinnovations...ow-transbrake-button

I can see with it a few possible improvements over the others out there. The metal rod could be held to tighter tolerances and not get as sticky, plus I think the weight of the metal rod may help to slow it down some.

The lighter the spring and longer the throw the more inconsistent I think they will be with all of them in my opinion.

I have bought through the years 5 of the Just In Time buttons and they may be best of the long throw buttons. There is a few things that I think could make them better. Not a big fan of the carbon fiber shaft it seems to get worn some on sides and the screws on both ends of shaft I have to keep tightening the screws. Maybe need to crank them down tighter but do not want to tighten them too tight and strip it out.

The Overthrow button looks interesting but I do not think that type spring would be as good. The fact that it can be mounted vertical tells me the spring is pretty stiff.

You are doing right thing by testing and trying to make improvements and if it does not work you go back to what works.
We are all trying to improve our game and look for every improvement we can get. Let us know how that button works out in the future.

Our JNT shafts and housings are made of Delron which is temp stable to 250 degrees. It does wear a little but doesn't change in size with temp.

If you ever have trouble with bolts coming loose use pipe dope to help but only hand tighten.

SL...

Will try the pipe dope trick.

You results mimic what I realized a few years back with the long throw buttons. As much as everyone touts them they don't work. Well at least I couldn't get them to work. I bought a couple and modified them and struggled for a half a year trying to button race off the bottom and finally fixed it....

I put the box back in the car.

I’ve had good luck with my long, slow button of choice. But I don’t make changes to the button to adjust my reaction time. I have the button set up almost as fast as it will go, but it’s still about 0.030 slower than a standard button.

From there, if I need to move RT around I make RPM adjustments, 100 RPM at a time.

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:
I’ve had good luck with my long, slow button of choice. But I don’t make changes to the button to adjust my reaction time. I have the button set up almost as fast as it will go, but it’s still about 0.030 slower than a standard button.

From there, if I need to move RT around I make RPM adjustments, 100 RPM at a time.

100% on this. We tested the terminator button in all of our cars with a practice tree and found 4 shims was the fewest shims with an acceptable window.

Has anyone put in a delay box set to 1.000 leaving off the top bulb to see what different adjustments in their long throw buttons are worth in delay for their car on the track? I know the button makers have bench tested them with an O-scope to provide a baseline of what one could expect.

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:
I’ve had good luck with my long, slow button of choice. But I don’t make changes to the button to adjust my reaction time. I have the button set up almost as fast as it will go, but it’s still about 0.030 slower than a standard button.

From there, if I need to move RT around I make RPM adjustments, 100 RPM at a time.

From my experience I do not like to kill over .030 with the button. More than that it seems to get increasingly more inconsistent. The class I race most often does not allow delay boxes so the long throw type button is my best choice.

quote:

Originally posted by moparacer:
You results mimic what I realized a few years back with the long throw buttons. As much as everyone touts them they don't work. Well at least I couldn't get them to work. I bought a couple and modified them and struggled for a half a year trying to button race off the bottom and finally fixed it....

I put the box back in the car.

I only had an issue with the Overthrow button & I'm sure it was probably because I haven't spent enough time with it.

I have no issues with the Biondo Terminator & has won me many races. I have also won many races with a delay box. It just takes a little more work with the long travel, but it works well!

2NKING

Some have mentioned removing too many spacers. I agree that you should not remove too many as the more travel you have. The more room you have for inconsistencies.

That being said, I use no spacers with my Terminator & still needs more delay. I have modified it to get slightly more delay. While I'm pretty comfortable & consistent with the set-up. I would like to find .003-.005 more delay. I have the car set-up to safely slow the vehicle reactions. The only place I have to slow reaction is to change out the Pro Tree valve body, but don't really wish to do that.

I still have the minimum travel transbrake switch in the car from box and/or pro tree racing. It's used for a back-up button currently.

2BKING Ideally, I would love to have 3 or 4 spacers, but that's not going to happen.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:
Has anyone put in a delay box set to 1.000 leaving off the top bulb to see what different adjustments in their long throw buttons are worth in delay for their car on the track? I know the button makers have bench tested them with an O-scope to provide a baseline of what one could expect.

Before I put my Terminator in the car, I hooked it up to the practice tree and made groups of hits off the top bulb with all the various shim setups. There was a difference, but I didn’t find it to be anywhere near .005 per shim or whatever the documentation stated. It’s been a long time, but if memory serves it was more like .010-.015 total difference over 5 shims.

Of course, the best way would be to remove the human element and have some mechanical, timed release mechanism to do this.

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:
Has anyone put in a delay box set to 1.000 leaving off the top bulb to see what different adjustments in their long throw buttons are worth in delay for their car on the track? I know the button makers have bench tested them with an O-scope to provide a baseline of what one could expect.

Before I put my Terminator in the car, I hooked it up to the practice tree and made groups of hits off the top bulb with all the various shim setups. There was a difference, but I didn’t find it to be anywhere near .005 per shim or whatever the documentation stated. It’s been a long time, but if memory serves it was more like .010-.015 total difference over 5 shims.

Of course, the best way would be to remove the human element and have some mechanical, timed release mechanism to do this.

I would like to see a honest test of all of them including which is quickest and which one reliably slows it down and how much it is able to slow down. My results to have not been as good as was told but then I am human.

quote:

My results to have not been as good as was told but then I am human.

Let Go Like A Pro

I would like to see a honest test of all of them including which is quickest and which one reliably slows it down and how much it is able to slow down. My results to have not been as good as was told but then I am human.

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Gotta get that Project Farm guy to do the youtube video for all the racing fans

That guy is creative for sure...

quote:

Originally posted by Hotrod Corvette:
I would like to see a honest test of all of them including which is quickest and which one reliably slows it down and how much it is able to slow down. My results to have not been as good as was told but then I am human.

-----------------------------------------------------
Gotta get that Project Farm guy to do the youtube video for all the racing fans

That guy is creative for sure...

The test could be setup fairly easily. You just need a linear solenoid and an oscilloscope with a high enough resolution to get meaningful data. The same method could be used for testing the car itself as well.

You could also do a similar test using a datalogger/ECU like a Holley Dominator, Fueltech Racepak etc but your resolution will be limited to .002-.003 which isn't great.

-Dalton

They need to test it under "two step" type vibrations to mimic in car conditions, IMO