In the heat of battle building a 98 Isuzu Hombre "S10 with different nose" and have a few questions for those that have built S10's ........

#1... I have the tubs done and they came out nice and the rest of the bed is super clean, does anyone race an S10 without a bed cove ??? I've been planning on building an aluminum cover all along but recently started thinking about just painting it body color. We race 1/4 mile up here and the truck should be a low to mid 10 second piece. Pro's and cons of a cover or not ????

#2 Radiators ........ What have you run ??? I'm running a big block Chevy with custom mounts and the trucks got the factory rad support. I'm thinking if I trim the bottom of the support I can fit a 23x19 radiator by sinking it between the rails ??? Ideas ......

#3 Trucks got a cage and the bars come out the rear window. Going with a lexan window, how are you guys finishing off the top cut ??? My S&W window comes with a sheetmetal filler, seems kinda cheesy. I'm thinking a nice slice and an angle hole and I can fit it around the bar ??? Ideas/pics ........

I have a few more questions but that will do for now lol

Thanks !!!

The two I built were street/strip trucks, both of them I used a radiator from a mid 90s corvette. I would have to do some looking to find the part#. That radiator fit nice with very minor mods to support. Did end up useing electric puller fans on both. Both were blazers with small blocks

My s10 was a 95 model. BBC. I used an afco scirroco style deal. Cooling was never a problem. You are already going to be pretty nose heavy so no sense in extra weight if you don't need it. I did my back window before I put the down bars in so there was no line cut. After fitting all of it tacked the bars in, slid the window back, welded everything then bolted it back in place. Oh yeah I ran it without a cover. Ran some s/st at 135mph. Never any issues.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: BLIND MULE 2217,

If it were me with a BBC in it I would put the radiator in the bed to move some weight back. JMO

Curtis

Thanks for the replies !!! The Corvette radiator seems to be a popular swap and dirt cheap too, gotta look into the scirroco.
Never even thought of the radiator in the bed, how do people plumb that ????

quote:

Originally posted by HS professor:
Never even thought of the radiator in the bed, how do people plumb that ????

My radiator is in the trunk of my roadster. I built a small aluminum box that I mounted my cap on and the an inlet and outlet for a-n hoses. My radiator is all aluminum with a-n fittings.

Think of it just like the dragster guys. It's just hoses to the radiator and you could use a tall filler like they use. Many different options if you think about it. Your overflow is also at the back so less chance if getting under the tires if sit does overflow.

Just a thought.

I would make the frt. end removable in one piece and then build a radiator fram tied to the frame rails so the frt. comes off and leaves the radiator.

I also do a lot of G bodies. Get good control arms. Some of the cheaper ones are heavier than stock. I use Trick chassis and Trz. Go with a narrowed rack. Helps on bump steer and weighs a lot less. Aftermarket brakes are worth 30lbs if you have the coin.

quote:

I would make the frt. end removable in one piece and then build a radiator fram tied to the frame rails so the frt. comes off and leaves the radiator

I've been thinking of that since I put the nose back on, real easy to simply unbolt and slide off as one unit.......

quote:

I also do a lot of G bodies. Get good control arms. Some of the cheaper ones are heavier than stock. I use Trick chassis and Trz. Go with a narrowed rack. Helps on bump steer and weighs a lot less. Aftermarket brakes are worth 30lbs if you have the coin.

I did TRZ upper/lower arms and Wilwood brakes along with Viking double adjustable/coil overs. Thought about a rack, but I had a nice manual box already . I moved the firewall back about 2" and notched the crossmember for oil pan clearance. I'm still torn on running steel heads as I have two good sets of 990's but I know a set of aluminums would help tremendously with the nose weight

Mine was around 59% on the nose with aluminum heads. I've started doing the g-bodies with a removable crossmember. It's easier to unbolt the rack, steering and crossmember than pull the motor to take the pan off. Is it ladder bars or 4 link?

quote:

Is it ladder bars or 4 link?

I moved the stock frame rails in about 6" and I'm using Calvert leaf springs and Caltracs. I was gonna do a 4 link setup originally but I've had such good luck with Caltracs it just seemed natural lol. I'm repurposing my narrowed Dana out of my 64 Nova so it just made sense. It can fit a 14x32 but looks goofy, so I'm planning on running a 13x31 or a 30x12.5 ish tire. It's got a moly cage and the dash is fiberglass so my guess is it wont be too heavy overall but I'm expecting to have to add a few hundred lbs to the rear to make it work

Trucks coming out way nicer than I really wanted and obviously costing more money to do so, but it's been a fun project. Just finishing up the headers now, that was a good time

check out Larry woodfins super 10 build. some great ideas implemented in that build.

quote:

check out Larry woodfins super 10 build. some great ideas implemented in that build.

Larry's truck is what got me wanting to build one I posted this on his last updates ............. Been quiet lately

***Sweet !!!! I'm right in the heat of battle building a kinda S10 "Hombre lol" . I need as many ideas as I can get !!! Cage is done and I just got a Suncoast fiberglass dash I have to mount.

Always enjoyed this build and it motivated me to build one.***