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| Transmission issue | Login/Join |
| DRR Trophy |
I am having a couple of issues with my trans on my dragster. 1st issue- trans is coming back from one run close to 210. I have done everything to get it cooler and I have had no luck. I have tried different fluids, etc. I currently am running the transynd fluid. 2nd issue- when I push the reverse button leaving the pits the trans has no issue. when i do the burnout and push the button to back up it is very slow to engage and doesn't engage has hard as it should. This just stated recently. I had no issues last year. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Jeremy | ||
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| DRR Top Comp |
The heat is the converter, I'm sure you don't have a cooler line kinked or a clogged cooler, right? The slow reverse engagement could be a lot of things, but I'd rule out the shift lever adjustment first. When you back out of your pit, you're pulling reverse from park, right?. I presume you put it in park, I do mine. It could be that when you go from park, the lever adjustment is perfect, but when you go from neutral the lever is off a bit, after the burnout. This is why you should check the lever adjustment from every possible position, it could see on the track. Park to low, low to reverse etc etc Does the transmission get warm just sitting in the pit idling in park? | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Read the pressure at the reverse tap on the case, while pulling the shifter into reverse from park and pushing the shifter into reverse, from low gear. Compare findings. | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
I will check the linkage. From park to reverse it is perfect. from low or second it is very slow. If that is good what else should I look at. once I read the pressure. | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Reverse is only slow engaging after the burnout. Otherwise there would be a third issue of rolling the lights, when you deck it on the transmission brake. Electrical connections (shake). Manual valve indexing, who installed the billet valve body? I'm sure the valvebody came with a proprietary manual valve included, correct? Slop rooster comb to shift lever could do it too. Or backlash (slop) in the shifter cable.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow, | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
I’ll throw this out there cause i’m a dummy. I twice put a ringless shaft in my trans and apparently it restricted flow to the cooler and or converter or both. Slowed it up over a tenth, loose as a goose, and trans was up to 200 after one aborted run and one full run. Cooler was ambient temp but trans itself was smokin hot. Crazy thing is it was consistent until the final where it finally slowed a couple numbers after staging with trans temp gauge pegged. I had done the same thing a couple years previous but it was during a mad thrash trans and converter swap between rounds so I thought the converter was just wrong. Didnt realize it was actually the input until I tried the input itself replacing a broken one. The Pull-Out....for when you want to work smarter, not harder!!! | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Mismatched input and pump. There's several different configurations of pumps and ringless inputs, between manufacturers. | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
I think the OP's problem is in moving the shifter forward into reverse. It'll show on the pressure test on the reverse tap, comparing readings pulling the shifter into reverse and pushing the shifter into reverse. Manual valve indexing, slop in the rooster comb to shift lever, or backlash (slop) in the shifter cable. Ya could put it in park after the burnout, but this remedy could lead to catastrophe for a perfectly fine transmission, if slop worsens and you end up in between gears in low or high, after it leaves. | |||
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DRR Pro |
this honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224 | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
This is the rooster comb the shift lever slides through, runs the manual valve. Preferably, you want no slop with the set not tight. This would be a perfect case scenario. The lever can't move inside the rooster ever, unless the rooster breaks. The set is really only designed to be snugged, not cranked down to avert / overcome slop.  | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Sounds like a loose rooster. Rooster loose, it throws off the manual valve. | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
I will look at the rooster. | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
Indexed manual valve, in park the journal is flush as seen. 1. check pressure 2. check rooster - lever slop , index, shifter cable backlash (slop)  | |||
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| DRR Trophy |
I checked the linkage and had to adjust it two full turns for the cable to slide in and out smoothly. | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
There is a term that has been around for ever. It is called "Cable Death". It destroys transmissions.. I am not being sarcastic either. It is always a good practice also to do a quick Servo Pressure Test at least twice a season. | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
I’ve found it frustrating when shopping for pumps, that they typically don’t clearly specify anywhere which type of input should be used with it. Tony Leonard | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
I only use one company. Trans Specialties. Their converter, along with their Pro Mod Pump and Ringless shaft. | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
I'll run through it with ya. BTE has their own proprietary design Transmission Specialties and Coan share the same design although the bushings they use in the stator to act as rings, are a slightly different hole/bore size (journal size on their input shafts slightly different. Their ringless input shafts look identical, but measure differently. Unless you buy a billet PG pump, there's really only a few predominantly out there. Ya got a 7 bolt pump, a modified stock pump and TCI gerator. The 7 bolt pumps have a bolt in stator tube, looks like they'll be the thing of the future with stock pumps becoming few and far between. If you run a active stator, 7 bolt pump is the hot ticket if you can keep the one way clutch in the converter from failing. 7 bolt or modified stock pump get a T400 stator tube for a ringless setup TSI & Coan. | |||
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| DRR S/Pro |
I have a Reid pump in my dragster. They’ll use a ringless input, but good luck finding that spelled out anywhere. Been a while since I looked, but I remember it being the case. They don’t make input shafts, so you can’t just buy a complete setup from them. When I needed a shaft for my Nova, I just bought a complete pump/input combo from FTI because it was the only way I could be certain that everything is compatible. Tony Leonard | |||
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| DRR Top Comp |
A Reid pump is a 7 bolt pump. The pump FTI sent you is most likely a 7 bolt pump, unless they have a cache of stock pumps they modify, however caches of stock pumps are getting rare just like caches of stock valve bodies to modify TB equipped, are getting rare. So you'll see it trending to a lot of 7 bolt pumps and billet valvebodies. I think where the confusion lies with your REID pump is, Yes REID supplies a version of their 7 bolt pump which accepts a ringless input, but that version is equipped with a T400 stator tube. If you were to just stick a ringless input into a 7 bolt pump with a powerglide stator tube, it would as act as you've described. It's a mismatch of parts. Now with all that being said, all 7 bolt pumps aren't created equal. Like everything else on Gods green earth, the 7 bolt pumps MADE IN USA in Gods country, are better. You know REID won't do business with wing wong ching chong china. | |||
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