When I first put the 4-link into my car, I was using a diagonal link and didn't like it. I put a wishbone on top of the diff and it's worked out perfectly.

To each his own. They all do the same thing. I don't think one is more superior to another but it all depends on the application.

Thanks for all the input, at this point I'm putting it on hold until I dig into it more. I messaged the chassis shop about an X link but haven't heard back yet.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:

quote:

Originally posted by inferno camaro:
Any advantages or disadvantages to switching to a wishbone? 4 link car running 4.90's -5.0's never any issues to this point.

why fix what ain't broken? No advantage on your car and only disadvantages as has been mentioned.

This!! No advantage so why bother. Spend the money somewhere else.

DRR Members fix what isn't broken on their race vehicles for many different reasons. Why do they bother, because they want to.

2BKing

An X link will add better roll control as it behaves similar to a swing arm and will eliminate some, not all, body roll. An Anti-roll bar along with an X-link seems to be the best option for anti-roll and rearend location. Anti-roll bars are standard equipment these days for most applications, but if not installed in your case my vote would be X link and anti-roll bar.

As far as wishbones go and to the OP's original question, they offer zero anti-roll help and are designed to allow the roll rotation of the rear end. They are effective at rear end location in the car but are also a wear point. All depends on what you are looking for.

My experience is with a dragster so not really sure if its what you're looking for.... about a year after I got my last dragster (Mullis 4-link with a wishbone) a friend with a similar car warned me to check my wishbone as he had neglected his and it wound up seizing and breaking the front rod end which he caught early but could have been catastrophic. I took mine apart & sure enough, it was barely moving. I disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and lubed it and checked it regularly... it worked perfectly for the next few years. Later I broke a driveshaft which damaged the wishbone and lower 4-link bars so I converted it to a 1 piece X-ed bottom bar. After a slight adjustment to my anti-roll & shocks for the new setup as advised by Brian at Mullis, the car once again worked perfectly. Going down the track I noticed no difference but as I turned off the track I immediately noticed that there was hardly any roll at all, similar to driving a swingarm / monoshock car. My summary: wishbones work, but they are not maintenance-free and they also fail. The X-ed bottom bars work just as well but simpler & there is one less thing to worry about.

quote:

My experience is with a dragster so not really sure if its what you're looking for.... about a year after I got my last dragster (Mullis 4-link with a wishbone) a friend with a similar car warned me to check my wishbone as he had neglected his and it wound up seizing and breaking the front rod end which he caught early but could have been catastrophic. I took mine apart & sure enough, it was barely moving. I disassembled, thoroughly cleaned and lubed it and checked it regularly... it worked perfectly for the next few years..

I have a wishbone 4 link door car (no anti-roll) and making sure the slide tube stays “Clean and Lubed” is Very important. It easily becomes dirty when one travels over non-paved parking. I used a bicycle innertube to cover both ends of the slide. This keeps the grease clean and tube moving properly. I can swivel the rod end by hand which indicates no binding.

nice DIY solution. dirt in the slide is the #1 issue. I've also seen a zerk fitting on the slide tube which should be on every wishbone.

Maybe nobody involved in this conversation has seen a floating x-link.

Floating x link slides over the bottom 4 link bars

Bigger tubing floats on the two bottom 4-link bars, x in middle.

We have one Ray Miller makes for his cars, on #MEAN GREEN.

Simple fix.

Drop the two bottom bars off the rearend housing, remove the heims, slide the x-link on the bottom bars, reinstall heims and reattach the housing, done.

No grease fittings, oil or maintenance.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

https://youtu.be/l3ImKaSlw78

This is an interesting design. I like the plastic inserts, would be very easy to check for wear.

^^^^^^^^^ Good video.

The center outer tube on my wishbone was worn inside on the outer ends from dirt getting into it from the previous owner and myself that allowed the inner rod slop from side to side when cleaned. I ordered a larger rod from Quarter Max and had it machined to the worn I/D size on the tube ends. Then used a hone to get the center of the tube to where the rod would just go through. I pump grease into the tube prior to installing the rod so that everything is lubed. Once installed it is very tough to try and force more grease in with a hand grease gun.

Unlike the video, the two outer rod ends on mine are installed vertically and have full motion. There is a narrow spacer between the rod end and the bolt head to diff to allow the horizontal rod end enough swivel and not bind when the 3rd member is hanging free.

I think X or K bar could be better. Making what I have work as best possible.

Do you use the nut as the Jack pin?

How do you jack it up?

IF the OP wants to add a wishbone, this is the guy he should be be speaking to and ordering from

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cjZRhL0WMlg

quote:

Do you use the nut as the Jack pin?

Prior to purchasing the car in 2007 (built in Quays shop 1992), when I called Quay with questions, they said the bolt head for the wishbone is a jacking point for the rear of the car.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Do you use the nut as the Jack pin?

Prior to purchasing the car in 2007 (built in Quays shop 1992), when I called Quay with questions, they said the bolt head for the wishbone is a jacking point for the rear of the car.

I'd wop that off and slide an X in there.

Floating X

I'll take a photo of the X Ray Miller did for #MEAN GREEN tonight when I'm weighing it.

Ed liked the unequal length 4 link bars
Shorter top bars to reduce potential binding between the top and bottom bars
I asked him why he favored that design and that was his answer

His XL 4 link dragsters have the same design with a wishbone and those cars do work well and don't break !! The Bracketeer models probably have the same design

My Vega had the same wishbone location attaching points but not nearly as nice as that lower mount.....My rear was a Dana with a stud drilled right into the housing and it weeped gear oil

Built in the mid 1970's with a 3 link and that was one really poor design.....As I said before I put an Art Morrison 4-link in it with short top bars.....and it eventually got an anti roll bar and ran 8.8's at 150+

Putting rear steer in a x link really sucks, thats why i wouldnt do an x link in a door car.

quote:

Ed liked the unequal length 4 link bars
Shorter top bars to reduce potential binding between the top and bottom bars
I asked him why he favored that design and that was his answer

quote:

Putting rear steer in a x link really sucks, thats why i wouldnt do an x link in a door car.

Quays 3rd gen camaro build is unequal length 4 link bars. With no ARB I use 2 flats of right side rear steer and positive preload on upper right bar to launch straight when picking up front wheels.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:

quote:

Ed liked the unequal length 4 link bars
Shorter top bars to reduce potential binding between the top and bottom bars
I asked him why he favored that design and that was his answer

quote:

Putting rear steer in a x link really sucks, thats why i wouldn't do an x link in a door car.

Quays 3rd gen camaro build is unequal length 4 link bars. With no ARB I use 2 flats of right side rear steer and positive preload on upper right bar to launch straight when picking up front wheels.

Even a floating X will act as an ARB to a degree.

I'd imagine,,, my approach would be this and staggered shock settings to achieve the same result,,,, an even to the ground back bumper when the car comes off the transmission brake.

I see rear steer in boosted pro mod applications, but I can't imagine any scenario I'd use it on a bracket car.

The reason for rear steer in pro mod is for the lesser torque in play out of the gate, versus the greater torque in play down track, torque steering the cars left,,, boosted.

Disclaimer... If it's working for you, stay with it.

My old friend and former owner of my old Vega has a Vanishing Point built Beretta that has a 900+HP 540 and has run over 170mph

Leaves perfect goes straight as an arrow........
X-Link
It's been parked for years though and is for sale