Well, I've decided to give a t-stat a try. Just the little bit of time that I've ran on alky, it takes me about 10 minutes or more of idle time with the shutoff in the 3/4 off position and engine rpms about 2000 to build any heat at all. I can BARELY get it to 160. So, in hopes that it will build heat a little quicker, I'm putting in a 160 t-stat. Not worried about cooling at all...that's for sure...The only pass I've been able to make so far, I was at 180ish at the finish line and it was back to 125 by the time it got to the pit....If it doesn't work like I'm hoping, I'll just pull it out, no big deal. James has had me tweak the barrel valve a bit and the throttle plates to get my idle right, so from here we'll just keep tuning and see what happens!

Race at Immokalee on the 11th, I'll get some hits in to tune and maybe go a round or two...then off to Bradenton again on the 19th to tune on the full 1/4 mile and address licensing stuff!

I know you don’t want the weight, expense and added work of a primer plus system but it really does work well. I wouldn’t do alky again without it.

Do you cycle the water pump on and off while warming up?

You should be able to get the barrel valve set closer and keep more heat in it on the way back to the pits. Just lean it out more if nothing else (going back to the pits)

With methanol that's like turning the water pump on and off. You don't wanna do that. If you end up with leaking valves on a leakdown, at least you'll know why.

I don't turn the water pump on until the gauge starts to move...

I know I need to keep working on the barrel valve, I think it might be a little too rich now, I need to see what it's leaking at....

Not sure how running the t-stat would be like turning the water on and off, it does have the bypass holes in it and fairly low temp...unless you're referring to the cooling effect of the fuel....but that shouldn't be an issue....i hope......Ti valves aren't cheap, and mine aren't off the shelf parts, they are custom for my heads....my head guy actually designed the profile for them.

At that point I cycle the water for about 30 seconds then shut pump off again for a while. Do that thru the whole warm up process. Lean out valve on whole time

I'd try speeding the circulation instead of slowing it down. I know for certain I wouldn't introduce cool water into a warm cylinder head, with cold spark plugs in play.... Speed the circulation. You're on the right path managing the high latent heat charge temperature drop of methanol.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

Do you know what the cooling system capacity is? This would be a help in suggesting what to try.

My sbc mfi is 11.25 qts. Using primer plus to warm and will maintain 170 -175* when on mfi and no fan running. I control the 1700 rpm(neutral) idle temp using the BV.

Sounds to me like you could lean the barrel valve down more. I agree with using a thermostat but if it is that fat is still will not build any heat.

When I start mine up I slowly lean it out until idle goes up around 2200 RPM and then toggle water pump off and on until water temp is up around 190* which does not take very long. I do run a thermostat but it has several extra holes drilled in it.

way too rich at idle

Lean the barrel valve, it's way to rich if it lost that much heat after the pass. Lean it till it stumbles when wacking it and then richen it a little from there.

Ok, I'll try leaning the barrel valve some when I take it out again. The t-stat I ordered has three 3/16 holes in it already, all I'm trying to do with that is help to maintain the temp. I don't remember my capacity, but I have a half fill brodix aluminum block and a pro stock size radiator.....Meziere pump, not the bigger one....

Just all part of figuring out the new fuel system. So far I really like it, just a new learning curve is all!

My car has the 20? GPM Meziere pump and a small Honda style radiator. My system only has about 1.5 gallons total and it cools quite well even as lean as I run my stuff.

I'm just wondering why a thermostat would be any less appropriate in an alcohol fueled engine then it is in a gasoline fueled engine? Or is it being suggested that a thermostat is inappropriate in a gasoline fueled bracket racing engine as well? Take care. Tom Worthington

Why no lean-out?

quote:

Originally posted by IMSHOT:
Why no lean-out?

They work with a carb but not well with injection...better to use the shut off cable per James Monroe as this also limits fuel delivery. You can get away with it on a carb because it does exactly that.

My question about a thermostat is how do they work with electric water pumps? Does pushing against a closed Thermostat harm an electric water pump?

quote:

Originally posted by Coloradoracer:

quote:

Originally posted by IMSHOT:
Why no lean-out?

They work with a carb but not well with injection...better to use the shut off cable per James Monroe as this also limits fuel delivery. You can get away with it on a carb because it does exactly that.

Ya, makes sense. I didn’t think of that.

As others have said you’re too lean on the idle mixture. You’ll have to lean the barrel valve and close the throttle blades a bit. That will help you both get and keep heat in it.