Brand new to having Co2 sensors and monitoring here.It's the wego III system and uses lambda readings. Currently I'm seeing mostly mid .70's and the car is killer in the heat. So probably not changing anything unless it's crazy lean for now. I do want to know more about tuning for when the cooler weather comes though. This combo has always been really good in the heat, but when the cooler temps come, it gets inconsistent and all of it seems to be from the 330 to 660 ft.

So let's start with the basic question of which way is leaner and which way is richer. Is a higher number leaner or richer and vise versa? Thanks for any feedback in advance.

Smaller number is fatter. You look to be way rich to me but others might disagree. Mid 70's is pretty fat.

One more thing, there's a nice color chart on the internet that you can print out to give yourself a guide. Just do a search. Good luck!

download this handy chart. http://www.hardtail.com/download/lambda-tuning.xls

^^^^ Yep, that's the one!

This is exactly what I've been looking for guys. Thanks so much!

I'm at .89 to .93 lambda in the heat depending on what part of the run you look at but different sensors will read slightly different. Mine are in the individual tubes. Did you do your free air calibration? Have your sensors ever seen gas? I'm really surprised to see that rich of a mixture not causing you issues.

Curtis

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
I'm at .89 to .93 lambda in the heat depending on what part of the run you look at but different sensors will read slightly different. Mine are in the individual tubes. Did you do your free air calibration? Have your sensors ever seen gas? I'm really surprised to see that rich of a mixture not causing you issues.

Curtis

To be honest, I'm not sure. I bought the car turn key and it's never had any problems. I'm pretty sure it's never seen gas and the guy gave me all the paperwork and a lot of notes he had with the system. I would assume it's been calibrated, but I'm not sure. I'm gonna throw some bigger high speed air bleeds in it this weekend and see how it responds to being leaned out a bit. My experience with alcohol is that's it's happy when it's a little fat (from a consistency standpoint) until the weather changes. Which makes perfect sense now that I know I'm fat and the cooler air is when it gets inconsistent.

Also, my sensors are in the collectors as opposed to the individual tubes.

Before you embarrass yourself to long. It's "O2" sensor - oxygen
CO2 is carbon dioxide.

You may never get an accurate reading with the sensor in the collector.

Thanks guys. I'm glad you like my chart. It's not carved in stone but gives you a rough idea of where to tune. It's always best to tune fat then lean it down.

quote:

Originally posted by Roger McGinnis:
Before you embarrass yourself to long. It's "O2" sensor - oxygen
CO2 is carbon dioxide.

You may never get an accurate reading with the sensor in the collector.

Indeed on the o2.
Some cars have no choice but to go in the collector.

We are all making a big assumption that they are calibrated the same and they may not be.

Now on mine I am at 12.9 to 13.1 on Gas scale (I run alcohol just use Gas scale for simplicity) which is about .880 to .890 on the Lambda scale or 5.74 to 5.67 on the alcohol scale. So I would say you are probably pretty fat. Once again assuming your system is calibrated like others.

And they are right about being in the collector. My understanding is the unlike EGT the O2 should be the same all way down the pipe until it gets too close to outlet where it may be contaminated by fresh air. If you think fresh air may be messing up the signal you could move it further up the pipe or put and extension on the collector.


If I was you I would definitely try to lean it down some and see what it does. Think you will like it and it will be more consistent in better weather.

If it’s in the collector and it’s mid 70s, it’s fat.

quote:

Originally posted by Roger McGinnis:
Before you embarrass yourself to long. It's "O2" sensor - oxygen
CO2 is carbon dioxide.

You may never get an accurate reading with the sensor in the collector.

For a brief moment...I thought huh there is a new trick I'm not familiar with utilizing co2? LMFAO.

For those of you that have EGT and / or O2 , are you tuning using these numbers or are you using your ET slip?

quote:

Originally posted by Roger McGinnis:
Before you embarrass yourself to long. It's "O2" sensor - oxygen
CO2 is carbon dioxide.

You may never get an accurate reading with the sensor in the collector.

You are correct indeed. It is O2 and Co2 is carbon. I made a typo.

Having said that, before you embarrass yourself too long. It's "too" long. Too is an an expression of time. "To" is not. But by all means, thanks for trolling bye.

I usually say "my sensor, in my header collector, on my engine, reads..."

Use it as a diagnostic tool, not necessarily an absolute.

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:
For those of you that have EGT and / or O2 , are you tuning using these numbers or are you using your ET slip?

ET slip. Period. Your O2 may be calibrated different than mine or anyone else's. Tune to best ET and then use your O2 numbers what ever it is to repeat or find your tune after changes.

I do not mean for this to sound bad but at the end of the day do you want a car that runs fast or do you want a specific O2 number? Watch your ET.

From my experience the EGT's have been totally useless and I do not even record them any more. O2 has been very important.

First step,,,,,,,,,,,, get your sensor out of the collector.