Doing the upgrade to 1350 yoke and I'm getting varying opinions on method. I'm planning to pull the axles and try to get a preload reading with an inch pound torque wrench and then try to go back to the same preload without going over. A Mark Williams guy told me to notice the loosening torque of the nut and just go back to the same. I don't like the sound of that but I guess I could try to get a reading of loosening torque after I get the inch pound preload. The other thing is some say use some Right Stuff on the splines before assembling to prevent leakage. I've never done that in the past. So what's your experience?

Just check preload as you plan then set it back to the same. Yes on the silicone on the splines. I skipped that when I installed my new strange 1350 yoke on my 12 bolt. Yes it will leak. Not a lot but will leak none the less. I wouldn’t worry with the break away torque on pinion nut. Too many variables that can come into play.

Does it have a crush collar or a spacer?

It has a crush sleeve so I gotta be careful on retightening.

no you don't, you'll never crush it

Ed got it right. Only way to crush that sleeve is in a press or use a 1inch drive impact wrench on 150psi air supply.

I know a thing or two because I've done a thing or two.

Truth is back in the day I could swap my 12 bolt ring & pinion at the track in under an hour.

My experience with sleeves is that they are a ***** to start to compress but go fairly easy after that. We tried to press new sleeves just a tad before installing to make easier when under the car. Am I wrong??

yes

I've replaced plenty of pinion seals on rear ends like the 12 bolt and on 12 bolts. Never once had an issue. Take the nut off, replace the seal, put the yoke back on and tighten the nut....don't make it harder than it needs to be. Just don't keep hammering the nut on. Get it tight and be done....

I've done many 12 bolts and disagree that you cant crush the sleeve without the above-mentioned items. You most certainly can and how I have always done mine.

With that said you can do what you need with some care and making sure you don't go crazy with the retightening.

do what your planning and dont go out of your way to overtighten adn you will be fine.

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:
I've done many 12 bolts and disagree that you cant crush the sleeve without the above-mentioned items. You most certainly can and how I have always done mine.

With that said you can do what you need with some care and making sure you don't go crazy with the retightening.

do what your planning and dont go out of your way to overtighten adn you will be fine.

Agree, a strong 1/2" impact will crush the crush collar.

quote:

Originally posted by "The Bender":
a strong 1/2" impact will crush the crush collar.

never seen it done yet

Been there, done that.

you can most definitely crush a crush sleeve the proper way. it wouldn't be called a crush sleeve if it didn't crush! I personally would use a spacer instead of a crush sleeve. that being said, I have reused old sleeves before and just be careful on the re install.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:

quote:

Originally posted by "The Bender":
a strong 1/2" impact will crush the crush collar.

never seen it done yet

I have done mine on a lift with a decent size power bar and by hand. I NEVER have EVER done one with an impact! Always by hand.

I measured a little over 40 inch pounds before taking the pinion nut off with the axles in but no tires or brake drums on. I shoulda used a beam type torque wrench to take the nut off but I used an impact. I put it back together with a new MW nut and washer, some red Loctite and a little Right Stuff on the splines. I tightened it to 60 ft lbs and the preload was 40. I went to 75 lbs and I was a little over 40 so I left it there. I'm not sure 75 is enough but it's gotta be close to where it was before disassembly. I really didn't want to crush the sleeve any because I know I've done it before. In '71 I bought a bunch of sleeves and that's what's in it now so I figure maybe the newer sleeves are stronger than my oldies and that's why some say they don't crush further. Now I gotta figure out which shaft to buy. BTW, the MW pinion nut and washer was 38 bucks. Mark ain't shy!
I'll post questions on my next issue soon. My u-joints aren't parallel. The trans is 3° up and the rear is 4.5° up. That was measured with the rear on stands though so maybe not true numbers. Thanks for the help guys.

If the trans is up 3.5* assuming you don't have soft mounts and are using solid... You want the rear -4.5 so under lost its -3.5*

If your soft then add another degree or two down.

Rossler trans has a whole diagram on this. You essentially want the two lines from trans and rear under load to never intersect! The only time you do is if the trans is at 0, and then you want the rear -1 so under lost it too is at 0*

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:
If the trans is up 3.5* assuming you don't have soft mounts and are using solid... You want the rear -4.5 so under lost its -3.5*

If your soft then add another degree or two down.

Rossler trans has a whole diagram on this. You essentially want the two lines from trans and rear under load to never intersect! The only time you do is if the trans is at 0, and then you want the rear -1 so under lost it too is at 0*

I wrote it wrong. The rear is 4.5° down and the trans is 3° down. So I'm way out to lunch. I've got solid engine mounts but a soft trans mount. According to Rossler, I'd have to move the trans to 6.5° up or move the rear to 1° up, right??

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Ron Gusack,

I talked Travis at MW and he said they don't like double negatives but the fact that the rear is 1.5 more negative might be what makes it work okay. I doubt that I have enough thread on the Heim joints to move the rear 4°. I've never broken anything with stock stuff and more R's than I'm running now so I'll most likely just order a shaft and let it eat.