quote:

Originally posted by 329L:
Depends on how happy the car was to begin with. You are making assumptions that slip means et loss, and that couldnt be any further from the truth. You are using gear to accelerate an engine, i like using the converter, and gear to that. Like i have said, there is more than one way to skin a cat. And if i was wrong, FTI and Trans Specialties converters wouldnt be selling like they are.

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:
Then we will have to disagree. I have seen numerous times that loosening a converter and NOT putting more gear in the car, goes faster down the track and is more consistent. And those are facts.

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:
Nope, it depends on what accelerates the car the best. You are assuming that gear will ALWAYS accelerate the car the best. If that was the case, why we stopping at a 4.30 gear? I know a decent amount of dragsters out there running a 4.56 gear to band aid a chitty converter. a 1900 lb dragster running 4.40s to 4.70s should not need that kind of gear.

quote:

Originally posted by bry-war:
A convertor can accelerate the car better than the engine can. A drastic example if this is clutch lock in a an alcohol car. The closer the engine gets to lock rpm the more the g meter sags. Don't give the whole that **** don't matter because it's a clutch. What do you think that convertor is trying to do. The more power you make the more throughput it will have with the same "settings". Yes it can be too loose I bet it still moves faster than one too tight. The only time we have ran too tight of convertor was to keep a new cobra jet under 8k because that's all that ford let's you spin them before they start dropping holes with a limiter.

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:
How much are you charging for said converter that will get me to 0% slip, but loose enough on the starting line to run? Is this something you build, or is this a tune up you have done at one of the companies?
I have tried to accomplish what you are trying to say, and get to 10% at the finish line in the 660, and it was not the fastest or most consistent down the track. Maybe I just suck at making horsepower and tuning, dont know. But if you sell said converter I would be interested in purchasing it.

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:
Ive tried more converters than you know. A big tire bracket car that has very little slip in the tire has to have slip somewhere to be consistent. Bracket cars put it in the converter. When you are running a big tire (LIKE ALL BRACKET RACERS DO) it tries to hold the engine back (LOAD), so you have to do things to take load away from the car. 1 way is to add gear, but this can be very tricky
in a BRACKET CAR with little to no wheel slip because this can dead hook, and cause them to wheel stand or get track dependent. SO (option 2), in BRACKET CARS WITH BIG TIRES, we put a loose converter in it, so the engine can accelerate and get the car consistently down the track.

With all this being said, call ANY engine builder around the country and ask them their opinion on converters in a NATURALLY ASPIRATED, BIG TIRE BRACKET CAR, and ALL of them are going to tell you put the loosest converter in it that will do the job. Most engine builders want to see stall RPMS at 6400+ rpm, and most of them do not give a **** about slip at the big end if the car is mph like it should. Now, if we are talking about power adders, or SMALL TIRES, like the car in your picture you posted, i agree, a tigher converter is going to better, but that is a 30" tire with under 100" rollout, not a tire that has 110"+

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:
Ive tried more converters than you know. A big tire bracket car that has very little slip in the tire has to have slip somewhere to be consistent. Bracket cars put it in the converter. When you are running a big tire (LIKE ALL BRACKET RACERS DO) it tries to hold the engine back (LOAD), so you have to do things to take load away from the car. 1 way is to add gear, but this can be very tricky
in a BRACKET CAR with little to no wheel slip because this can dead hook, and cause them to wheel stand or get track dependent. SO (option 2), in BRACKET CARS WITH BIG TIRES, we put a loose converter in it, so the engine can accelerate and get the car consistently down the track.

With all this being said, call ANY engine builder around the country and ask them their opinion on converters in a NATURALLY ASPIRATED, BIG TIRE BRACKET CAR, and ALL of them are going to tell you put the loosest converter in it that will do the job. Most engine builders want to see stall RPMS at 6400+ rpm, and most of them do not give a **** about slip at the big end if the car is mph like it should. Now, if we are talking about power adders, or SMALL TIRES, like the car in your picture you posted, i agree, a tigher converter is going to better, but that is a 30" tire with under 100" rollout, not a tire that has 110"+

You are absolutely right but wasting your time arguing with him about it. Most of us have our cars set up for 1/4 mile and on mine it is 19% in the 1/8 and lower in 1/4. I could go way up on rear gear and get away with a little tighter converter (less slip) but why? I am not chasing Converter Slip number I am racing. I want consistency and performance. It is a compromise it is not perfect.
If someone is impressed with 0% in the 1/8 let him chase that BS number. I am racing. My junk works quite well with the slip it has and I am not changing or chasing rainbows. Or Cones.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:
Ive tried more converters than you know. A big tire bracket car that has very little slip in the tire has to have slip somewhere to be consistent. Bracket cars put it in the converter. When you are running a big tire (LIKE ALL BRACKET RACERS DO) it tries to hold the engine back (LOAD), so you have to do things to take load away from the car. 1 way is to add gear, but this can be very tricky
in a BRACKET CAR with little to no wheel slip because this can dead hook, and cause them to wheel stand or get track dependent. SO (option 2), in BRACKET CARS WITH BIG TIRES, we put a loose converter in it, so the engine can accelerate and get the car consistently down the track.

With all this being said, call ANY engine builder around the country and ask them their opinion on converters in a NATURALLY ASPIRATED, BIG TIRE BRACKET CAR, and ALL of them are going to tell you put the loosest converter in it that will do the job. Most engine builders want to see stall RPMS at 6400+ rpm, and most of them do not give a **** about slip at the big end if the car is mph like it should. Now, if we are talking about power adders, or SMALL TIRES, like the car in your picture you posted, i agree, a tigher converter is going to better, but that is a 30" tire with under 100" rollout, not a tire that has 110"+

You are absolutely right but wasting your time arguing with him about it. Most of us have our cars set up for 1/4 mile and on mine it is 19% in the 1/8 and lower in 1/4. I could go way up on rear gear and get away with a little tighter converter (less slip) but why? I am not chasing Converter Slip number I am racing. I want consistency and performance. It is a compromise it is not perfect.
If someone is impressed with 0% in the 1/8 let him chase that BS number. I am racing. My junk works quite well with the slip it has and I am not changing or chasing rainbows. Or Cones.

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:

quote:

Originally posted by 329L:
Ive tried more converters than you know. A big tire bracket car that has very little slip in the tire has to have slip somewhere to be consistent. Bracket cars put it in the converter. When you are running a big tire (LIKE ALL BRACKET RACERS DO) it tries to hold the engine back (LOAD), so you have to do things to take load away from the car. 1 way is to add gear, but this can be very tricky
in a BRACKET CAR with little to no wheel slip because this can dead hook, and cause them to wheel stand or get track dependent. SO (option 2), in BRACKET CARS WITH BIG TIRES, we put a loose converter in it, so the engine can accelerate and get the car consistently down the track.

With all this being said, call ANY engine builder around the country and ask them their opinion on converters in a NATURALLY ASPIRATED, BIG TIRE BRACKET CAR, and ALL of them are going to tell you put the loosest converter in it that will do the job. Most engine builders want to see stall RPMS at 6400+ rpm, and most of them do not give a **** about slip at the big end if the car is mph like it should. Now, if we are talking about power adders, or SMALL TIRES, like the car in your picture you posted, i agree, a tigher converter is going to better, but that is a 30" tire with under 100" rollout, not a tire that has 110"+

You are absolutely right but wasting your time arguing with him about it. Most of us have our cars set up for 1/4 mile and on mine it is 19% in the 1/8 and lower in 1/4. I could go way up on rear gear and get away with a little tighter converter (less slip) but why? I am not chasing Converter Slip number I am racing. I want consistency and performance. It is a compromise it is not perfect.
If someone is impressed with 0% in the 1/8 let him chase that BS number. I am racing. My junk works quite well with the slip it has and I am not changing or chasing rainbows. Or Cones.

I get bored easy...... apparently