Ok so broke a tooth off flex plate cpl weeks ago. Have JW 130 tooth plate. Looking thru jegs they have two one solid one light weight and we know how I love light weight, especially rotating parts. Then hell I broke a solid one,but kick back issue not plate itself..

Ant one using one of the light weight deals?

Better options? Oh uea Hemi 8 bolt,but figure more of quality thing than engine brand.

The only difference between the 2 is the lightweight has holes in the plate like a stock type flexplate.

I use the lightweight and only because in the past I have had engines burn up thrust bearings using the heavier solid JW Wheel

I stopped using solid plates and never had a thrust bearing issue again.

I have a 139 lightweight JW wheel and have sent it back to recert once.

Probably 4-5 years old....

I've had nothing but problems with JW wheels in the past. I hope they have improved over the last decade or so.

Like I said I can not fault the flex plate as it had good amount of kick backs and its last cert was in 05.

I think I am going to ship this one back for ring gear if they will do it w/o recertifying it,Heck around here big wheels on back,small one on front,entry and helmet,go race.

quote:

Originally posted by Roger McGinnis:
I've had nothing but problems with JW wheels in the past. I hope they have improved over the last decade or so.

Same here. Usually broken ring gear welds.

Several years ago we had a three inch piece of ring gear fly off our JW Wheel while making a pass. That was the last run ever with a JW Wheel. And it had been recertified the previous year.

Man you guys have me worried about even getting this one repaired. Almost sounds like safer buying stock replacement piece.LOL

I did see a quick time flywheel in Jegs that was SFI to 12000 rpm.While its cheaper than I want it would work for testing and working out this new fuel system.Breaking a 200 piece hurts but not as bad as breaking a 400 piece and yes fixing whats causing broken tooth is first priority. I know spending more than just buying Mezier piece from start. Have primer system hooked up,but also new and not sure how well its going to work. Fixing the over sized hole in squirt bottle is simple enough

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,

I had 2 of them, 168's. 1 under the SFI and 1 over the SFI. Took out a tooth. Now with my new ATI. Never an issue. I swear it seems like an issue with the heat treat process. These were solid plates. The one had such a minor kick back, You would never even imagine. sure enough, off it came.. I have one on the shelf that i was going to have it looked at closely. Looks like minuscule rust at the leading weld edge.

Just my humble opinion but I think an automatic transmission needs a FLEXplate. Operative word being flex. I am running a TCI plate now, I have run Pioneer, Jegs, and numerous other brands over the years without one single problem. 153 tooth flexplate and a Tilton starter for most of that time.

Just from the looks of it the ATI plate looks really nice, maybe I'll put one of those on someday. Good luck with whatever you pick!

Years back I took a JW out of the trash that had a couple of teeth missing from the venerable 20deg retarded 7AL3.
Tigged a new ring gear to it and put it behind a 732. Made about 50 passes with no issues.
Looked at the design from the beginning, and that is all it was, a stamped steel solid center, with a Pioneer style ring welded to it.
And Vern is right, flex is very important. It will eliminate 90% of thrust bearing issues. Never a problem with any of the sfi gold cad plated wheels from B&M and Pioneer, etc.

I went from a JW to the ATI. I run a Mopar 8 bolt too.