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DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
posted
Ok I have heard I post to much crap. AGREE and it getting costly to keep it up.

Now solenoid has shorted out or just burned up. A ongoing issue of possibly.

Long story short. Had the solenoid hooked up to get a measurement on the piston for trans brake valve stroke. Maybe 30 seconds MAYBE? The rolled smoke out of the solenoid. Jerked wiring loose. Too late.

MY question is if the solenoid burnt up in 30 or less. My stupidity or more than likely has been an issue the whole time with TB, reverse kicking in and out.TB jerking like hell?

Bad anyway
I just blow $160 and possibly a good weekend.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,




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Posts: 4547 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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30 seconds is too long, but with that said I have a spare solenoid with me all the time, they are pretty reliable, but I wouldnt hold mine down for more than 10 seconds, ever. I don't let the electric shift solenoid stay on and cook either.
 
Posts: 302 | Location: Midwest  | Registered: January 12, 2015Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
posted Hide Post
Up date. It seems they do not like 16v systems. Straight from FTI.

So guess it is one me,well sort of. Just heads up
Now if know what kind of relay works bezst here let me know.




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Posts: 4547 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Yellow Ticket:
30 seconds is too long, but with that said I have a spare solenoid with me all the time, they are pretty reliable, but I wouldnt hold mine down for more than 10 seconds, ever. I don't let the electric shift solenoid stay on and cook either.


Shift not issue since air over electric to operate air ram and on for 2 seconds in delay box.

Like said above 16 main issue according to FTI tech.




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Posts: 4547 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
posted Hide Post
I am struggling to believe 16 volts was more detrimental to it than 30 seconds. IMO
 
Posts: 302 | Location: Midwest  | Registered: January 12, 2015Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of David Covey
posted Hide Post
What relay are you using? Pancake style or the long canister?
I have use 16 volts for years same solenoid (pancake style) and have never burned one up. can't tell you how long I've had it activated at any time but know it's been30 seconds a few times.
I will say if you use a relay in it to cut voltage it may effect delay times and maybe cause some kind of voltage soak(?) think condenser.

Dave


"It is usually futile to try to talk facts and analysis to people who are enjoying a sense of moral superiority in their ignorance." -Thomas Sowell
 
Posts: 3356 | Location: American By Birth Texan By The Grace Of God  | Registered: April 29, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
posted Hide Post
Many of us are going back to 12 volt systems. The last car I built I put a 12 volt system in. The other 2 I built before have 16 volt systems. I have never burned up a Transbrake solenoid but I change them out fairly often. If I think reaction times get bad and I know I hit the tree I will change it and keep old one as a spare.

In my opinion I think those transbrake solenoids are rather wimpy. They say use a good 12? gage wire to solenoid but the wires that actually go into the solenoid are very small like 20 gage?

Like mentioned in another thread are you sure it is going in proper depth?


https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/
"Dunning-Kruger Effect"
-a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge.

Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue.

4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion
 
Posts: 4352 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR S/Pro
Picture of SCDIV1
posted Hide Post
Solenoids get hot but unless it was somehow restricted from moving all the way to it's stop position there is no reason you should be burning one up...

I worked on many machines that used a solenoid to control things....mostly engine run and idle and high speed on diesels.

Those often had 3 wires....a pull in coil and a hold coil.....If the solenoid was misadjusted and couldn't get to full travel it would cause a high amp draw and blow a fuse or open a thermal auto reset breaker....

Trans brake solenoids don't have that and are pretty strong but I never had a single problem with the little open types that I usually had.

A Dedenbaer electric throttle stop has a very strong solenoid and they do get hot if left energized but I never burnt up one of those either and I'm sure I had one powered for way longer than 30 seconds without any problem.....other than it getting hot....


You truly can f'k up a free lunch I think......LOL Falling of chair laughing

This trans brake saga has been going on for months...Maybe drag racing just isn't for you or working on a car for that matter.....or anything else....

Sorry but I just can't keep my mouth shut....
 
Posts: 2735 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
posted Hide Post
Well guys all I can tell you is smoke was rolling out and nonrestricted sine on the counter so I could measure.
I agree should not have burned up hell few years old but only 4 or 5 hits at the line.

FIT is the source of it being the problem and guess the reason they changed to a different solenoid. They did not make or design this one. So more of a supplier issue.

They also told me lots have gone to relay for this reason.

As for 12 or 16. I like how 16 spinds engine and having mag it is big. Have lots of crankings power wise. Also new 16v and will be 16v till bettery craps then decide.

Also mebe reason I had jumping and jerking issues that I blamed on a slightly cut reverse piston o ring. Heck could be both.

Fit also told me the new design is rebuildable with a new coil available. Either way, I have a new solenoid on the way , Shoild be here tomorrow and maybe can test Sat and Sun. at Piedmont.

I know lots of you want to see me at least make a decent shot. Promise nobody more than me. Tired of this crap. Most things going bad are unused new stuff.




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Posts: 4547 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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My backup button is a toggle switch and I’ve left it on for 30 seconds- 2 minutes before and it hasn’t smoked it.

However, I’ve also accidentally left it on for a longer period of time like 5 minutes maybe and it shorts and takes out the delay box fuse.

30 seconds shouldn’t have done it though, heck some guys take that long to back up from their burnout! and yes I should have a momentary on mine but the toggle is just so convenient.
 
Posts: 743 | Location: Upstate NY | Registered: July 02, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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agree not cause. Still dead and trying to find out what relay I need to make sure not to do again.




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Posts: 4547 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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Since I guess 1320 is dead, crying in his coffee or banned, I'll chip in.

Basket weaving is probably more suitable for you.

How can you claim doing incredible stuff but can't figure out sensible resolutions to all your endless problems without asking here?

And how does one burn up/ destroy/f up so much stuff without racing it?

I'm starting to think that all your posts are made to generate replies to garner more hits to this site.

Shouldn't you be in Indy?



Cool
 
Posts: 624 | Location: Atco, NJ | Registered: March 14, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Big Steve
posted Hide Post
Been running 16 volts for over 10 years and never have burned up a TB solenoid, that is a load of crap that 16 volts is causing this.
1000s of racers running 16 volt systems out there
 
Posts: 2569 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of 434 olds
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Curly1:
Many of us are going back to 12 volt systems. The last car I built I put a 12 volt system in. The other 2 I built before have 16 volt systems. I have never burned up a Transbrake solenoid but I change them out fairly often. If I think reaction times get bad and I know I hit the tree I will change it and keep old one as a spare.

In my opinion I think those transbrake solenoids are rather wimpy. They say use a good 12? gage wire to solenoid but the wires that actually go into the solenoid are very small like 20 gage?

Like mentioned in another thread are you sure it is going in proper depth?


You obviously have a wiring problem. I`ve been running a 16V system since 98 and never had a TB solenoid go bad. Going back to a 12V system is like getting rid of LED lights and going back to candles.





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Posts: 536 | Location: Oak ridge, N.J | Registered: February 09, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
posted Hide Post
if call is 20 to 30 seconds long time then yes.

I agree should not have caused the issue. I am going off what FTI told me they thought was problem.

I figured maybe being at 18 volts for 30 seconds was the reason. They said time was not the issue but had quite a few with 16v losing solenoid.

Regardless it is dead. Just looking for aw way to prevent in future is it is problems. Guess that just bad idea.




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Posts: 4547 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by 434 olds:
quote:
Originally posted by Curly1:
Many of us are going back to 12 volt systems. The last car I built I put a 12 volt system in. The other 2 I built before have 16 volt systems. I have never burned up a Transbrake solenoid but I change them out fairly often. If I think reaction times get bad and I know I hit the tree I will change it and keep old one as a spare.

In my opinion I think those transbrake solenoids are rather wimpy. They say use a good 12? gage wire to solenoid but the wires that actually go into the solenoid are very small like 20 gage?

Like mentioned in another thread are you sure it is going in proper depth?


You obviously have a wiring problem. I`ve been running a 16V system since 98 and never had a TB solenoid go bad. Going back to a 12V system is like getting rid of LED lights and going back to candles.


this was straight-wired to check how far the piston out when engaged. same voltage as had when in car and through the delay box.

Please by all means explain how wiring could cause. Open to suggestions which is a reason to ask questions and get others' opinions. Never said I was an electrician. Hot in with good ground pretty dang simple unless something in dalay box reduces voltage out.

So if not few seconds on and can not see 30 seconds being too long and not 16v or 18 at solenoid at the time. What else?




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Posts: 4547 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by wideopen231:
quote:
Originally posted by 434 olds:
quote:
Originally posted by Curly1:
Many of us are going back to 12 volt systems. The last car I built I put a 12 volt system in. The other 2 I built before have 16 volt systems. I have never burned up a Transbrake solenoid but I change them out fairly often. If I think reaction times get bad and I know I hit the tree I will change it and keep old one as a spare.

In my opinion I think those transbrake solenoids are rather wimpy. They say use a good 12? gage wire to solenoid but the wires that actually go into the solenoid are very small like 20 gage?

Like mentioned in another thread are you sure it is going in proper depth?


You obviously have a wiring problem. I`ve been running a 16V system since 98 and never had a TB solenoid go bad. Going back to a 12V system is like getting rid of LED lights and going back to candles.


this was straight-wired to check how far the piston out when engaged. same voltage as had when in car and through the delay box.

Please by all means explain how wiring could cause. Open to suggestions which is a reason to ask questions and get others' opinions. Never said I was an electrician. Hot in with good ground pretty dang simple unless something in dalay box reduces voltage out.
HAd to be a reason they changed design from this to what they sale now

So if not few seconds on and can not see 30 seconds being too long and not 16v or 18 at solenoid at the time. .What else?




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Posts: 4547 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve:
Been running 16 volts for over 10 years and never have burned up a TB solenoid, that is a load of crap that 16 volts is causing this.
1000s of racers running 16 volt systems out there


I did not say the 16 volts burned it up and I do not have a wiring problem. Like I said I have never burned up a solenoid even with 16 volt.

Wideopen has a problem not me. I tend to think his issue is transbrake solenoid not proper depth or wrong solenoid.

FTI tech told Wideopen 16 volt is main issue.
You got a beef about that take it up with Wideopen or FTI. Because I do not care, I am not going to argue with you about what Wideopen or FTI said.


https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/
"Dunning-Kruger Effect"
-a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge.

Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue.

4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion
 
Posts: 4352 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Curly1:
quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve:
Been running 16 volts for over 10 years and never have burned up a TB solenoid, that is a load of crap that 16 volts is causing this.
1000s of racers running 16 volt systems out there


I did not say the 16 volts burned it up and I do not have a wiring problem. Like I said I have never burned up a solenoid even with 16 volt.

Wideopen has a problem not me. I tend to think his issue is transbrake solenoid not proper depth or wrong solenoid.

FTI tech told Wideopen 16 volt is main issue.
You got a beef about that take it up with Wideopen or FTI. Because I do not care, I am not going to argue with you about what Wideopen or FTI said.



Big Steve didn't insinuate that you had a problem. It was 434 olds.


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Posts: 2811 | Location: NV. | Registered: October 20, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Alaskaracer
posted Hide Post
I run a BTE solenoid and 16v with zero issues. You have a ground problem I bet....too much resistance WILL cause problems.....go through every ground in your car. Chassis grounds are poor, direct are best. If you can't do direct, run a cable off the ground post to a copper buss bar, next best thing....chromoly is a very poor conductor....


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Posts: 1561 | Location: Back home in Alaska! | Registered: February 13, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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