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DRR Sportsman |
Finally beginning work on the 68 Camaro roller. It is a backhalf car, gutted, caged, 9-Inch, Ladder bar/Coilovers, front suspension is basically stock, with aftermarket tubular control arms. Was previously run with a BBC/Glide setup. It has Competition Engineering shocks on the rear, QA1's on the front. I have no history on the car, no idea how old the shocks are, how well the chassis worked, or how much use they have seen. I would like to find a knowledgeable shock specialist with a shock tester/dyno setup that I can send all 4 of them to, along with the springs, and have them tested to find out if they are serviceable or need rebuilding/replacement. Do you fellas suppose I would be better off sending each brand to their manufacturer (or rep/servicer), or are there any sources that would have baseline info/specs on both brands? Or would I be better off replacing all 4, and with what? (Keeping in mind the plan is to go with a mild/moderate BBC, 7-800 HP range). Any recommendations? Thanks in advance for any & all advice. This message has been edited. Last edited by: FootbrakeJim, Dan "Jim" Moore Much too young to feel this damn old!! | ||
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DRR S/Pro |
Chris Bell/Kinetic Shocks and PRS should be able to do what you need | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Matt Tinnin at Tinnin Race Suspension can hook you up. He really knows his stuff. http://www.tinninsuspension.com/ Rob Livingston | |||
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DRR Pro |
Not what you want to hear, but here it is anyway: My car is similar, 3400lbs with driver at the time, with wheelie bars and nitrous bottle on board. I was using Alston Eagles which were about 15 years old that a friend gave me. I set them at 5, never ever touched them. I would go 8.80 on the bottle, 10.20 off. Stock front shocks. I don't blame you if you want to check things out first, but if they ain't leaking, SEND IT! I had no idea what the rate of the coil over spring was, so I took my valve spring tester, the type you use in a bench vise to check pressure, yes IT IS SCARY!, and used my drill press. I compressed the spring an inch, looked at the pressure on the tester, went another inch, it doubled, so they were linear springs. The only reason I don't have them on there anymore is that one popped a seal while towing between tracks and left juice all over my trailer floor. I could have rebuilt them, instead I bought nice Afcos with new springs, and still, set them at 50/50 and don't touch them. Maybe I am just lucky! | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
Ask some of the circle track guys, they will know if someone local has a shock dyno. They should be able to give you an opinion on whether they are working OK. The CE shocks are probably not rebuildable or worth rebuilding. | |||
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DRR Trophy |
We can go over the shocks for you. We have dyno and spring rating capabilities. Shane Sweigart Competitive Suspension Solutions 484-529-3501 | |||
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DRR Pro |
^^^^^^ My recommendation above! | |||
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DRR Pro |
There's really not much point in dyno testing shocks you know nothing about. The money is probably better spent on new shocks. Buy the best shocks you can afford or at a minimum consider having the front (QA1 as I read) shocks rebuilt. The C/E shocks can be purchased for the same or less than the cost of dyno testing. Frankly, a double adjustable coilover will be best on both ends of the car. Afco shocks are very good as are other brands. If you want to spend more that's certainly an option. Menscer (modified Afco) are great shocks and there are many other options. That combo, ladder bars and 700-800 hp, will really benefit from good double adjustable shocks. Matt Ward | |||
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DRR Trophy |
another vote for competitive suspension solutions | |||
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