Looking for an occasional use torque wrench in either 3/4” or 1” drive for the motorhome. Don’t want to break the bank. Needs to be able to do 500 lbs. What do you all recommend?

If you talking lugnuts, I have a 3/4 breaker bar and a 4' pipe that I use. Works good, I've installed several tires/wheels this way.

https://www.amazon.com/HOMCOM-...M6K03K07SEW2NN6GDYRM

These torque multipliers work well to get the lugnuts off of the motorhome.

I am looking to torque the lugnuts on!

Proto, CDI Mountz

All good Brands, reasonably priced and easy to get on internet.

Preference: Proto P/N 6020AB is commonly used

Keep in mind the tire shops and road crews typically use 1" drive impacts and beat the crap out of it with that, then "check" it with the clicker wrench...its never loose with the clicker because the impact typically will over torque it the in the first place.

Most all the road trucks wont even check the torque...careful out there folks.

Chris,
I have seen these big truck shops and service trucks not look at a torque wrench. I want to do it right and torque them when I have them off.

Thanks,

quote:

Originally posted by TORQIN:
Proto, CDI Mountz

All good Brands, reasonably priced and easy to get on internet.

Preference: Proto P/N 6020AB is commonly used

Keep in mind the tire shops and road crews typically use 1" drive impacts and beat the crap out of it with that, then "check" it with the clicker wrench...its never loose with the clicker because the impact typically will over torque it the in the first place.

Most all the road trucks wont even check the torque...careful out there folks.

You mean like this? Almost killed the driver Were the studs "Torqued" "NOPE". Ya they were torqued to about 1200 Lbs with a 1" gun. I have a brand new one from Central Tool >> 600. I might sell. All the service trucks have one in them already. This was a backup. I stopped doing tires after i was T boned at 50 + in the service truck going on a tire call>> Back issues. This is a Central Tool (Storm) 3T660. Problems with these guys using either the 3/4 or the 1" is, they just hammer away and stretch the studs way exceeding the Yeald. Sheer the studs and off comes the tires. I had one call where as the duels passed the driver up when the studs sheered.

And yes that came off the truck in front of him. Just had the tires rotated "Flipped" Spread axle.

Don't laugh, I'd look at Harbor Freight. They have a new line of torque wrenches and they look like good quality. Their cheapo's do really well and are accurate.

quote:

Don't laugh, I'd look at Harbor Freight. They have a new line of torque wrenches and they look like good quality. Their cheapo's do really well and are accurate.

Problem is I don't think they service the 3/4"/1"/500 ft. lb. crowd.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ck_O5U1Tyz8

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rr1wujtXNq4

These are $lick.
Works very well using a 15% loss value.
Mac X4

The big truck tire world is a total mess with people who simply know nothing about torque, bolt tension, over torque/under torque, bolt yield, or basic torque factors and procedure.

Plenty of fatalities recorded from over torque/stud failure on big rigs. Even worse they continue the same methods and seem to expect different results.

Apparently the profit in tires over rule safety and other drivers well being. SAD to say the least.

While the truck tire business is actually is the small end (small tool 3/4" drive/under 2" nut) of my business, they continue to pay the people that get hurt/killed...torque still seems unimportant to this industry.

I have tools for this application, but get shot down with regularity for a tools over $5,000.00 to properly do the job. You can lead a horse to water...cant make em drink it though.

Careful out there folks!

We show these to many tire shops...told too much money:

https://torquetoolsinc.com/products-2/rad/b-rad/

Battery operated tools up to 5,000 ft lbs, the smaller models will clearly do the job...They tell us too much money...life is clearly not valuable to this industry. Tire profits are...

Chris,

Just send me one to try out

Chris. I could not agree more on the push for profits over the lives of others safety. Pretty sad on the hundreds of lives lost due to laziness. I could not even tell you how many times i have witnessed hundreds of tires being replaced on the road while i was doing the air or electric due to a casing explosion or what ever tire related. Now this is with some heavy hitter Corps doing tires.

I think i have seen it maybe 2-3 times in about 25 plus years. Was torqued properly. Case in point, even the new transported RV's, Off they come at lighting speeds and people are killed or severely injured.I have had calls where as the duels came off and went into homes due to stud shear. The torque decal/procedure on the side of all trailer means nothing to most. I can image just how many units are out there where as the studs are stretched/yield. Thousands at a bare minimum.

Another real gray area where as tire guys are using the 3/4 deal. Can't even get the torque down to 450. the **am impact is worn out. Like i tell all my kids, stay away from these trucks at any cost. just assume something is going to fly off at any second. Get around them quick if possible. Hows this, a brake drum disintegrated at road speed and just about decapitated a woman's head here. Sad deal..

quote:

Originally posted by 369dragster:
https://www.amazon.com/HOMCOM-...M6K03K07SEW2NN6GDYRM

These torque multipliers work well to get the lugnuts off of the motorhome.

They work to torque the lugs nuts ON too...just have to do the math and use a 1/2 drive torque wrench

This is the one I have - life time warranty

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F...=1YAYIFXHSNJS4&psc=0

Torque chart
http://www.cheaterwrench.com/w.../07/torque-chart.png

quote:

...just have to do the math and use a 1/2 drive torque wrench

Big trucks are out of my league, and I want to keep it that way, but it seems to me one should be able to use a 1/2" drive torque wrench to a given value then torque to angle. Same process as a rod bolt. Yea or nay?

quote:

Originally posted by TORQIN:
Proto, CDI Mountz

All good Brands, reasonably priced and easy to get on internet.

Preference: Proto P/N 6020AB is commonly used

Keep in mind the tire shops and road crews typically use 1" drive impacts and beat the crap out of it with that, then "check" it with the clicker wrench...its never loose with the clicker because the impact typically will over torque it the in the first place.

Most all the road trucks wont even check the torque...careful out there folks.

Have you guys used torque sticks? At my last shop each rig had a color dot at the valve stem letting them know what extension to use. Worked for us and yes we did check them against a good T-wrench.

quote:

Originally posted by stk 758 BP!:

quote:

Originally posted by TORQIN:
Proto, CDI Mountz

All good Brands, reasonably priced and easy to get on internet.

Preference: Proto P/N 6020AB is commonly used

Keep in mind the tire shops and road crews typically use 1" drive impacts and beat the crap out of it with that, then "check" it with the clicker wrench...its never loose with the clicker because the impact typically will over torque it the in the first place.

Most all the road trucks wont even check the torque...careful out there folks.

Have you guys used torque sticks? At my last shop each rig had a color dot at the valve stem letting them know what extension to use. Worked for us and yes we did check them against a good T-wrench.

. BTW, I can’t tell you how many studs our guys broke before -Not using T sticks. Saved us a bunch!

Torqin knows about torque tools, the RAD torque tools he sells are the sh*t