I am in process of replacing my old 48 foot PACE trailer floor and having high solids epoxy coating applied. The trailer has 3/4 floor plywood. The trailer floor joist about 1 foot is level with the front section of the trailer floor then the floor slopes downward. The floor slope occurs after that 1 foot section. There are 2 floor joist about a foot apart. It appears from the factory the rear second floor joist was never screwed down. Any how has anyone replaced the sloped 3/4 plywood without any special applications to bend the plywood. The original flooring screws has pulled thru the edge of the floor board. When I install new 3/4 plywood I am planning on screwing the screws about 12 inches apart on both floor joist. The I was going to use a uni-strut to hold the plywood from pulling the fasteners thru the edge. That would make the plywood fastened every 6 inches before bending the 3/4 plywood. On the most aft joist I would remain at 12 inches. I would again utilize fasteners every 6 inches on the aft edge of the plywood.
My concern is the bending of the plywood without breaking the plywood. Has anyone done this with success?

Here is a link to some of the rework I am doing IO also found numerous welds that were cracked or cold weld joints https://photos.app.goo.gl/5sYWZ43wjN647vwV7


Thanks

Chuck
PAE

IBE, that stands for In Before Ed!

First of all you need to sell that pile of junk and get ahold of Ed and have a new trailer built to HIS specifications. Under no circumstances are you to have it built to your specifications since it's obvious that you don't know squat about trailers, racing or anything else for that matter.

How am I doing so far? As you can tell I'm just poking a little fun at Ed. Sorry Ed, I couldn't resist. It must be the Corona affecting my little brain.

Anyway, good luck on taking on such a major project. I am completely worn out just from adding two additional tie downs in my trailer. However, in my defense it has been about 110 degrees and I'm older than dirt.

Keep us posted and I have no idea about the plywood unless you can use steam to bend it. I have seen that done before.

I just reconfigured the last 8 foot of my enclosed trailer. I made it from a 4 foot and 4 inch Beavertail drop to a 6 foot and 3 1/2 inch Beavertail drop. I’ve done this to make it more dragster friendly. The original configuration was the last two 4 x 8 sheets went together it started a sharp edge where the Beavertail dropped. My frame looks similar to yours underneath. After redoing the rear section I reused my plywood and it bent very safely and I felt real good about it. My bend is in the middle of the four foot. I do not think you’ll have any problems.

Ain't it fun!! I replaced the floor in my 28' and had to do a lot of metal replacing and welding while in there. I didn't use 3/4" plywood. I went with 3/4" Advantek which is waterproof. It bent fine and I think you'll be fine with getting the plywood to bend. While I had my floor out I welded metal to tie the holddown backing plates to the frame.

Ok spent more tie in the trailer with temps climbing to 105*. Bailed out. But I have some a new picture. I took a measurement of the total amount of the bend that will be made.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/UJan7dhrsQeMTs6S9
If you look at the photo you will see a "X" where the plywood starts and I tool measurements. The first joist to the left is level after that the second is 3/4 drop. The third is 2 inches and the end of the sheet will be 3 inches. So I think you are correct in saying I should be ok on bending the 3/4 sheet. Guess I'll find out on Monday as tomorrow I'll be installing 3 other sheets forward of this one that will have Mac Pro tie down channels. I am using a wheel net for the front tires as the car sits too low. Its going to be BETTER than a new designed trailer as this ol gyrl is steel and can take a lot of abuse. BESIDES its "PAID FOR!"

Thanks
Chuck
PAE

This message has been edited. Last edited by: PineApple Express Racing,

Well I accomplished the bending of the 3/4 plywood sheet. Yes I had serious concerns if it would split. So I used some uni-strut I had laying around. I used it to spread the hold down area while bending the plywood. I also increased the fasteners. I did note that the fasteners from the factory was not utilized as I thought they should have done and causing the screws to pull thru the plywood on both ends. I increased the fasteners to 6 inch spacing on the ends and also installed screws on 12 inches centers on all other floor joist. During the assembly with the strut holding the plywood in place and completed the project. I left the strut in place over night to help spread the load. This is now all done. Overall I put over 350 self drilling screws into the floor. I also used a pilot drill on each hole as the self drilling screws leaves a lot to be desired. I also welded all old screw holes so I wouldn't strip the screws on the floor joist. I also got the floor painted with high solids epoxy paint with color chips. Here is a recap of the floor activities. https://photos.app.goo.gl/UJan7dhrsQeMTs6S9

Chuck
PAE

What a beautiful job. Hard work payed off 10 fold.

Better than "NEW"

Looks killer. Nice work!

Great job! Now come do my trailer roof for me. It’s only 100 degrees and it’s a dry heat!

One thing it is probably a good thing you replaced the floor. Some of the original welds did not look good. Should be much stronger now and if you would have not done it could have ended up with major problems.
The trailer looks very nice now, I am impressed and you should be proud you of how it turned out.

quote:

Originally posted by TD3550:
What a beautiful job. Hard work payed off 10 fold.

Better than "NEW"

For sure