It's been a long winter and my old mind is drawing a blank. Didn't want to derail the start retard timing thread so quick question.

If you start with 31* and are pulling 20* timing out on nitrous runs do you set rotor phasing at 11* (31* minus 20*)or do you guys split the amount of retard ( 20* divided by 2 = 10) and set the rotor @ 21* which would be the 31* minus half the nitrous retard ?

quote:

Originally posted by sc4087:
It's been a long winter and my old mind is drawing a blank. Didn't want to derail the start retard timing thread so quick question.

If you start with 31* and are pulling 20* timing out on nitrous runs do you set rotor phasing at 11* (31* minus 20*)or do you guys split the amount of retard ( 20* divided by 2 = 10) and set the rotor @ 21* which would be the 31* minus half the nitrous retard ?

I always go in the middle ....... center at 21 degrees



.

I always phased to the lowest timing the motor would see. the way it was explained to me is that this is where the ignition will see its highest load. That said I never pulled 20 degrees. I did pull as much as 15 when I started running a second system and I never saw a problem with having the distributor set at 16 degrees with 31 degrees base timing. However, I had everything on within a couple of tenths and on for the whole run. So really my base timing was only needed for a burnout and staging. I could see where this could potentially be an issue for someone turning the nitrous off mid track as their rotor would be out of phase for the motor timing they were running at that point.

Just my .02, I always checked rotor phase at minimum and maximum timing.

Car did not need to be running to do it.

I set the balancer on the max timing mark and see where the rotor points (1 or 6 doesn't matter to me), then bump it to the lowest timing mark and again, see where it points. At the low and high side, both just need to hit the same post.

Keep it simple. (at least thats what I do with my locked out distributor)

quote:

Originally posted by Tom Reyer:
Car did not need to be running to do it.

I set the balancer on the max timing mark and see where the rotor points (1 or 6 doesn't matter to me), then bump it to the lowest timing mark and again, see where it points. At the low and high side, both just need to hit the same post.

This is an excellent non-running method.

You could use XPS fans method for yours as well. Set the balancer timing mark to the midpoint (between normal / max retard) and adjust distributor cap accordingly to center on rotor.

I always shoot for the middle as well .... i don't want it cross firing at idle , just because it needs to be retarded 20 degrees while both kits are on ...

Big distributor cap I do like XPS said. Small cap I've had better luck setting it closer to lowest timing point.

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DragRaceResults.Com    Bracket Talk    Bracket Talk Forum    Tech Talk - by Abruzzi    timing pulled for nitrous/rotor phasing

Mike 20 seems like a lot of timing you are taking out. might want to think that over. I usually never got over 12 degrees out of phase as I didn't want to risk the chance of it cross firing. I usually ran two kits and would set it dead on for the first kit (usually the larger of the two) and then pull the rest without concern. If I ran them identicle the second kit was always only pulling about 2/3's the timing of the first kit, IE pull 10 for first and only 7 for the second kit.

quote:

Originally posted by N2Ofrog:
Big distributor cap I do like XPS said. Small cap I've had better luck setting it closer to lowest timing point.

There's a good point here and that's to stay away from small diameter caps, especially the Moroso crab cap if you need to take any chunk of timing out due to a high dose of NOS.

A cross fire is not a good thing but a cross fire under WOT could be disastrous!

run the initial timing lower. you just need enough to do a burn out and keep the plugs clean at idle

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:

quote:

Originally posted by N2Ofrog:
Big distributor cap I do like XPS said. Small cap I've had better luck setting it closer to lowest timing point.

There's a good point here and that's to stay away from small diameter caps, especially the Moroso crab cap if you need to take any chunk of timing out due to a high dose of NOS.

A cross fire is not a good thing but a cross fire under WOT could be disastrous!

This defies logic, the ****her away from the center, the ****her the pointer moves right. Small cap would have less movement and the large cap would have more. Unless your saying the posts are closer together and more chance to fire the wrong one.

quote:

Originally posted by Tom Reyer:
Unless your saying the posts are closer together and more chance to fire the wrong one.

Bingo, that's why we run this on our junk







Almost 2 inches between posts compared to the normal 1 1/2 and even less on the small cap.



.

quote:

Originally posted by Tom Reyer:

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:

quote:

Originally posted by N2Ofrog:
Big distributor cap I do like XPS said. Small cap I've had better luck setting it closer to lowest timing point.

There's a good point here and that's to stay away from small diameter caps, especially the Moroso crab cap if you need to take any chunk of timing out due to a high dose of NOS.

A cross fire is not a good thing but a cross fire under WOT could be disastrous!

This defies logic, the ****her away from the center, the ****her the pointer moves right. Small cap would have less movement and the large cap would have more. Unless your saying the posts are closer together and more chance to fire the wrong one.

Air is not a good conductor of electricity! More space for spark to jump, the harder it gets to do so, just like spark plug gaps!

BTW, electricity is PFM! Pure F'in Magic

quote:

Originally posted by The Bozman:

Mike 20 seems like a lot of timing you are taking out.

LOL, that's just example I used for simple math. I actually pull more than that out and at one point in the run I have 26-27 out with the launch retard. I do like Nitrous1's suggestion to lower the initial though. Never thought of that. Might try it but i have a hard enough time starting a burnout as it is with converter as tight as it is so I can't take too much away from it.

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:

quote:

Originally posted by Tom Reyer:

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:

quote:

Originally posted by N2Ofrog:
Big distributor cap I do like XPS said. Small cap I've had better luck setting it closer to lowest timing point.

There's a good point here and that's to stay away from small diameter caps, especially the Moroso crab cap if you need to take any chunk of timing out due to a high dose of NOS.

A cross fire is not a good thing but a cross fire under WOT could be disastrous!

This defies logic, the ****her away from the center, the ****her the pointer moves right. Small cap would have less movement and the large cap would have more. Unless your saying the posts are closer together and more chance to fire the wrong one.

Air is not a good conductor of electricity! More space for spark to jump, the harder it gets to do so, just like spark plug gaps!

BTW, electricity is PFM! Pure F'in Magic

On the small cap, drilling 4 holes evenly spaced (12,3,6,9 O’Clock) 1/4” diameter 1 7/8 “ up from the bottom of the cap between the spark plug towers will help with Ionization that occurs when the air inside the cap
becomes electrically charged resulting in spark scatter.

quote:

Originally posted by XPS fan:

quote:

Originally posted by Tom Reyer:
Unless your saying the posts are closer together and more chance to fire the wrong one.

Bingo, that's why we run this on our junk







Almost 2 inches between posts compared to the normal 1 1/2 and even less on the small cap.



.

That cap also has 4 vent towers (black buttons) in the top of the cap that will offer more venting than a standard cap that only has one.

quote:

Originally posted by sc4087:

quote:

Originally posted by The Bozman:

Mike 20 seems like a lot of timing you are taking out.

LOL, that's just example I used for simple math. I actually pull more than that out and at one point in the run I have 26-27 out with the launch retard. I do like Nitrous1's suggestion to lower the initial though. Never thought of that. Might try it but i have a hard enough time starting a burnout as it is with converter as tight as it is so I can't take too much away from it.

SPRAY IT IN THE WATER BOX !!!!!



We usually ran 27 degrees in the 622 12 degree motor and worked our total timing off of 32. that gave us 5 degrees of what didn't need to be phased.

quote:

Originally posted by The Bozman:

SPRAY IT IN THE WATER BOX

I LIKE IT !



.

quote:

Originally posted by The Bozman:


SPRAY IT IN THE WATER BOX !!!!!

You don't know how seriously I've considered doing that! LOL I just don't have the balls to momentarily tap the over ride button

At a race both Bozman and I were at in whichita Falls TX I let a buddy drive my car to fill up a shootout race and he mixed up the N2O button for the burnout button! Luckily he was in neutral so the car didn’t go anywhere but boy oh boy did those RPMs go up in a hurry!