SBC, about 675hp, max 7600 rpm one weekend a month when I run 1/4. Usually 6900. Scat I-beam with ARP2000 bolts. How many runs would you trust them for?

I’d worry more about them junk bolts first....

cycle the bolts every two years,worry about the rods later on

New Chinese rods are cheap, repairing the damage caused by them exiting your oil pan ain’t. 400 runs and throw them in the weeds or garbage, whichever is closest.

Dang, I should have changed my rod bolts 6 years ago. LOL

I measured the bolt lengths and recorded the numbers when I put in the rods in 2012. Each bolt is right back to the number when I have pulled them down so I just put them back together. They are even the junk 2000 bolts. Without having numbers to look at I would have changed them. My rods are Callies.

Scott, you probably put more runs a year on yours than I get to in 3 years though.

I used Crower +.400 billet rods with ARP CA625 hardware in my 582. I stretched them using the AP 100-9942 gauge. This is an area where cheap can quickly become expensive.

Bolts are inexpensive compared to the cost of everything that dies when they break.

Bob

L19

L19 differs from ARP2000 in that it is a vacuum melted alloyed steel with sufficient chromium and carbon to achieve high hardness (but below the level of a stainless steel). L19 is air-cooled from the hardening temperature in a way that does not require an oil quench to achieve full hardness and is tempered to assure full conversion to martensite between 1025°F and 1075˚F. L19 is a proprietary material capable of achieving strengths of 220,000/230,000 or 260,000/270,000 psi as may be required. Both L19 and ARP2000 steels are modified bcc (martensite) at room temperature. L19 has the same advantage as ARP2000 in that a high strength is obtained at a high tempering temperature. This alloy is easily contaminated and requires special handling.. I always preload X2 in the rod vice prior to install.Check stretch before and after.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: TD3550,

Leaving the manufacturer out of the picture, anything that is cycled can and will fatigue so this means both the rods and bolts in this case. The closer these items are pushed to their yield strength the faster they will fatigue and visa versa. So for a give engine combo, more rpm means more load, and also for a given rpm, a lighter piston and pin will reduce load. Less load = more cycles before failure. Load is a function of rpm, weight of the components and stroke, increase any one of these and you develop more load.

As for rod bolts, ARP2000 bolts are not junk! But that doesn't mean they will work in all combo's. If there is any doubt these or any other bolt will work in your combo you can call ARP with your crank balancing info and max rpm and they can tell you if they are the right ones for your application. Also with regards to rod bolt failures, more often than not it was due to improper assembly/torqueing. One common mistake it during torqueing is to tighten the bolts up close to the torque valve and then one more step to that value, this is dead wrong, snug them up and in one motion to the torque value. Also as mentioned, checking strength is the only way to verify that the designed clamping load has been achieved. Torqueing is just a measurement of friction! The bolt lube, condition of the treads all contribute to friction.

As far as the rods in question, Ed makes a good point, at some magic run count, toss them, when you look at the cost to replace the bolts vs the cost of new economy rods, it's likely you will buy new rods.

TOP38...KNOWS!

Honest question ...........

Would you trust a 10+yr old rod that is in great shape, resized and new bolts or a new rod from the same manufacturer ???

Sounds like a simple question but I'm convinced most everything made today is not near the quality of years past

Scott, how many runs are on them? 2,000 possibly? Nobody here can give you a definitive answer without empirical data to support it. Otherwise it is just a guess to stay safe, which isn't necessarily a bad idea.

There are so many different combinations out there that really it is impossible to say when they should be changed. How lucky do you feel? LOL

If you do decide to keep them and change bolts make sure you measure and or change the bushings. I changed my bushings out a few years ago. I also don't have to run my stuff as hard as you do.

quote:

One common mistake it during torqueing is to tighten the bolts up close to the torque valve and then one more step to that value, this is dead wrong, snug them up and in one motion to the torque value.

I believe this is a valid approach. And lends itself to torque-to-angle verified by stretch.

Technology is always changing "Better" from years past.Ex grain flow/heating cooling process.Nickel
content Etc..

Curtis

These rods were in my 383 then went into this engine. They have between 2000 and 2500. Im putting the exact same rod back into it,new of course. Was just curious what the “experts” thought.

quote:

Originally posted by Scott Creed:
Curtis

These rods were in my 383 then went into this engine. They have between 2000 and 2500. Im putting the exact same rod back into it,new of course. Was just curious what the “experts” thought.

Even I would rotate those out.

quote:

Even I would rotate those out.

Ebenezer....

quote:

Originally posted by Canted Valve:

quote:

Even I would rotate those out.

Ebenezer....

Guilty as charged on frugality. LOL. But I wouldn't want those rods "haunting me"!