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DRR Trophy
posted
What is a good product to used to clean vacuum pump.
 
Posts: 30 | Location: Rocky Mount | Registered: December 27, 2021Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of 329L
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Half a can of brake cleaner into pump before you start, Start the engine and spray rest of through engine. Another suggestion is to pull lines of vacumm pump and let "air out" after a night of racing.


Jeremiah Hall
 
Posts: 762 | Location: Evansville, IN | Registered: February 24, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Lenny5160
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Every couple weeks, I'll pull the vac pump inlet hose off the valve cover during warmup and, with the engine running, shoot brake cleaner into it for about a 5 count.

At idle, I can definitely feel a big difference on the gauge or when tapping the hose fitting to my palm. As long as I do it often enough, it doesn't make a difference on the gauge downtrack.


Tony Leonard
 
Posts: 3266 | Location: Inver Grove Heights, MN | Registered: March 18, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of FootbrakeJim
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Just a note of caution about using Brake Cleaner spray. Yes, it is as good as anything for removing oil & grease. But please pay attention to the label.(Yeah, I realize most of us know this, but not everyone does):
Chlorinated brake cleaner is Non-Flammable, while Non-Chlorinated versions are EXTREMELY Flammable.
Both types work well, and I highly recommend that you use the non-flammable "Chlorinated" type if you are spraying it anywhere near a running engine. The risk is small, but the potential results can be devastating.
(BTW, the Non-Chlorinated version makes great starting fluid).


Dan "Jim" Moore
Much too young to feel this damn old!!
 
Posts: 1124 | Location: Farmersville, TX  | Registered: December 05, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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ok thanks....
 
Posts: 30 | Location: Rocky Mount | Registered: December 27, 2021Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of TomR
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by FootbrakeJim:
Just a note of caution about using Brake Cleaner spray. Yes, it is as good as anything for removing oil & grease. But please pay attention to the label.(Yeah, I realize most of us know this, but not everyone does):
Chlorinated brake cleaner is Non-Flammable, while Non-Chlorinated versions are EXTREMELY Flammable.
Both types work well, and I highly recommend that you use the non-flammable "Chlorinated" type if you are spraying it anywhere near a running engine. The risk is small, but the potential results can be devastating.
(BTW, the Non-Chlorinated version makes great starting fluid).


Also remember, NEVER use Chlorinated brake clean on anything you intend to TIG weld.


72 Nova "Hooptie"
 
Posts: 799 | Location: Hanover, MD | Registered: June 20, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of FootbrakeJim
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quote:
Originally posted by TomR:
Also remember, NEVER use Chlorinated brake clean on anything you intend to TIG weld.


Never heard that, TomR, curious what the issue would be? I didn't think brake cleaner left behind any chemical residue, once it has evaporated.


Dan "Jim" Moore
Much too young to feel this damn old!!
 
Posts: 1124 | Location: Farmersville, TX  | Registered: December 05, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR S/Pro
Picture of CURTIS REED
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by FootbrakeJim:
quote:
Originally posted by TomR:
Also remember, NEVER use Chlorinated brake clean on anything you intend to TIG weld.


Never heard that, TomR, curious what the issue would be? I didn't think brake cleaner left behind any chemical residue, once it has evaporated.


I believe it’s the possibility of chlorine gas if there just happened to be a pocket of it is why. Bad stuff.



____________________________
2017 and 2018 Osage Casinos Tulsa Raceway Park No-Box Champion

2018 Div4 Goodguys Hammer award winner
 
Posts: 3209 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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I just pull my Star off and run parts washer fluid back and forth through it a few times, blow dry it with air, and put it back on the car every few months.
 
Posts: 1597 | Location: PA | Registered: February 26, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Some solid tips here! If cleaning isn’t solving the problem, it might just be time for a new pump. I switched to a more updated hydraulic pump recently, and it’s been working great way less hassle. Happy to share what worked for me if anyone’s interested!
 
Posts: 5 | Location: Forsyth | Registered: December 17, 2024Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of TomR
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by FootbrakeJim:
quote:
Originally posted by TomR:
Also remember, NEVER use Chlorinated brake clean on anything you intend to TIG weld.


Never heard that, TomR, curious what the issue would be? I didn't think brake cleaner left behind any chemical residue, once it has evaporated.


The story below was the first time I had heard of it.

https://www.brewracingframes.c...r--phosgene-gas.html

"The chemical in the brake cleaner is Tetrachloroethylene. When this chemical is exposed with excessive heat and argon (used in MIG and TIG welding) it also produces phosgene."


72 Nova "Hooptie"
 
Posts: 799 | Location: Hanover, MD | Registered: June 20, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of Wildman
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by TomR:
quote:
Originally posted by FootbrakeJim:
quote:
Originally posted by TomR:
Also remember, NEVER use Chlorinated brake clean on anything you intend to TIG weld.


Never heard that, TomR, curious what the issue would be? I didn't think brake cleaner left behind any chemical residue, once it has evaporated.


The story below was the first time I had heard of it.

https://www.brewracingframes.c...r--phosgene-gas.html

"The chemical in the brake cleaner is Tetrachloroethylene. When this chemical is exposed with excessive heat and argon (used in MIG and TIG welding) it also produces phosgene."

Thank you for sharing Tom, I have wondered if that was a good idea, I have used brake clean when I am out of acetone.
 
Posts: 114 | Location: at a dragstrip near you | Registered: April 02, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
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Thanks for posting that article about phosgene. Wow, bad stuff!


Clowns to the left of me, Jokers to the right. Here I am.......
 
Posts: 5343 | Location: stuck in the middle with you! | Registered: March 11, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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quote:
posted January 16, 2025 07:41 AM Hide Post
Some solid tips here! If cleaning isn’t solving the problem, it might just be time for a new pump. I switched to a more updated hydraulic pump recently, and it’s been working great way less hassle. Happy to share what worked for me if anyone’s interested!


Tell me more about this setup, please. What pump did you use etc.
 
Posts: 113 | Location: SO. IL. | Registered: January 18, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Sportsman
Picture of TD3550
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On the Moroso units when they wear out. They make vane and bearing kits to rebuild it.
 
Posts: 1424 | Location: Under a Truck | Registered: August 23, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of CURTIS REED
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quote:
Originally posted by TD3550:
On the Moroso units when they wear out. They make vane and bearing kits to rebuild it.


Same for Star, or you can send it to them and they will rebuild and test it.



____________________________
2017 and 2018 Osage Casinos Tulsa Raceway Park No-Box Champion

2018 Div4 Goodguys Hammer award winner
 
Posts: 3209 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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I get enough oil, water and alcohol in mine I haven't touched it in years.


www.trailertoad.com designed by racers for racers.

 
Posts: 1249 | Location: Janesville, IA | Registered: December 21, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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