I started a 327 build year or so ago. Got shelved a little for other things like race car.

Finally got machine shop on stick which in turn got me fired back up.

Figure old school hot rodding polish rod beams and balance rods and pistons. Got started and found few 283 rods mixed in. Luckily had 9 327 rods to work with, Since everything mismatched anyway. Weighed caps and the rods. then matched to get total weigts the same then figured get all journals the same or close. Should make for balancing big and small ends easier. Have all journals the same total has to be good starting point.

Built new stand since have not used old one in decades. DId all the small ends first hoping to get all rods w/o caps equal. Was actually lot closer than figured. Spread was 3.8g over 8 rods. then went to big ends , Have not finished them yet. getting there but is going on 3am.

Amazing shyt you can get into because start thinking about stuff late at night is probably main thing to learn from this.LMAO

Oh yea I did find out a 283 rod is 30 grams lighter than 327. 327 supposedly stronger, Not sure about all of that. I know not swapping and dropping 240 grams off crank is killing me. Only 5 283 rods and fact 8 327 are polished and matched might also play into picture.

Got rods balanced this morning. have to do pistons. Since not really removing any major amount of weight I am wondering if any reason to balance crank? Idea of project is old school very little cash build and just using some of those old tricks and know half do not do dang thing except look and sound cool.LOL

Prepping for paint today after grinding excess crap off out side and smoothing valley some. Man glyptal has gotten high priced too in past 40 years.So much for cheap build.LMAO

So after too many hours and huge mess in shop. I remember why the chrome finish rods and crank smoothing is old school and even those who know how do not do, That and other than less oil on rotating assembly and looks cool. Maybe few grams lighter. It does not really do much more.LOL

Hey it does look damn cool and beats watching tv cussing democrats half the night.

Now to improve oil flow some. Little more grinding,drilling and polishing.

quote:

I am wondering if any reason to balance crank? Idea of project is old school

You have rods from here, pistons from there and a crank from down yonder.

No these all are from a motor I bought for 35 bucks about 40 years ago. Sold the dbl hump heads for 125 to some guy long time ago. Thanks now I feel older.LOL

When started I was trying to decide 283,327 or combo and have 302. After years of stories from dad about his 327 with cross ran ib gutted 57 vette he was racing when I was born. The 64 SS he had with 327 and solid lifter cam. I went with the 327.
The 283 is junkyard motor I got for 15 bucks and bought for crank. Ended up was factory solid lifter motor so figure if block checks out it might be worth good piece of change to restorer. May just be piece of junk too. Still got the forged crank and figure at least I should be able to cover the 15 bucks I have in it. LOL

I did learn that 283 rods are lighter than 327 rods. SO learned something new and did not waste that day.

If I remember right , all 327 cranks were forged

Mark.

I think the later large journals had some that where not. I am not positive about it. I know this one and the 283 I bought in junkyard motor are. The wide parting line indicates forged and a thin one indicates cast.

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
No these all are from a motor I bought for 35 bucks about 40 years ago. Sold the dbl hump heads for 125 to some guy long time ago. Thanks now I feel older.LOL

When started I was trying to decide 283,327 or combo and have 302. After years of stories from dad about his 327 with cross ran ib gutted 57 vette he was racing when I was born. The 64 SS he had with 327 and solid lifter cam. I went with the 327.
The 283 is junkyard motor I got for 15 bucks and bought for crank. Ended up was factory solid lifter motor so figure if block checks out it might be worth good piece of change to restorer. May just be piece of junk too. Still got the forged crank and figure at least I should be able to cover the 15 bucks I have in it. LOL

I did learn that 283 rods are lighter than 327 rods. SO learned something new and did not waste that day.

I got lost....
283's never had double humps.
A 327 is a 4" bore block, 283 block can't get there.
So a 327 can be a 302 with a 283 crank, or a 283 can be a 307, with a 327 crank.

Best option for an automatic equipped ride is the 327, if you have a stick shift and want to buzz it too the moon, go 302.

the dbl humps I sold where off the 327 I am building. Paid 35 for complete engine nd sold heads for 125. I am amazed at number of folks who will spend a fortune on these old heads. yes good for their day, If you build a set to run today with unleaded fuel which means you need hardened seat installed. You will have same or more in low air flow heads than if you bought cheap aluminum heads.

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
No these all are from a motor I bought for 35 bucks about 40 years ago. Sold the dbl hump heads for 125 to some guy long time ago. Thanks now I feel older.LOL

When started I was trying to decide 283,327 or combo and have 302. After years of stories from dad about his 327 with cross ran ib gutted 57 vette he was racing when I was born. The 64 SS he had with 327 and solid lifter cam. I went with the 327.
The 283 is junkyard motor I got for 15 bucks and bought for crank. Ended up was factory solid lifter motor so figure if block checks out it might be worth good piece of change to restorer. May just be piece of junk too. Still got the forged crank and figure at least I should be able to cover the 15 bucks I have in it. LOL

I did learn that 283 rods are lighter than 327 rods. SO learned something new and did not waste that day.

I got lost....
283's never had double humps.
A 327 is a 4" bore block, 283 block can't get there.
So a 327 can be a 302 with a 283 crank, or a 283 can be a 307, with a 327 crank.

Best option for an automatic equipped ride is the 327, if you have a stick shift and want to buzz it too the moon, go 302.

Au Contraire
The 283 can be bored to 4". Did it many times for myself and customers. Granted this was long before thickness testers so ignorance was bliss. The majority held up just fine but remember the HP was much less in those days.

Other trivia. The cast 327 will not go in the 283. CWs were too tall.
Oh, and yes there were a lot more 283 cast cranks than forged.

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
the dbl humps I sold where off the 327 I am building. Paid 35 for complete engine nd sold heads for 125. I am amazed at number of folks who will spend a fortune on these old heads. yes good for their day, If you build a set to run today with unleaded fuel which means you need hardened seat installed. You will have same or more in low air flow heads than if you bought cheap aluminum heads.

Ummmm, yeah....I hoarded several sets back in the 80's, they're kind of in the way now.
NHRA screwed me allowing aftermarket heads in Stock. Now I have number / date correct restoration parts.
I have a pair with hard seats installed and some unmolested ones.
Probably should put together all the '68 MO code (Z-28) parts I have.

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
the dbl humps I sold where off the 327 I am building. Paid 35 for complete engine nd sold heads for 125. I am amazed at number of folks who will spend a fortune on these old heads. yes good for their day, If you build a set to run today with unleaded fuel which means you need hardened seat installed. You will have same or more in low air flow heads than if you bought cheap aluminum heads.

Ummmm, yeah....I hoarded several sets back in the 80's, they're kind of in the way now.
NHRA screwed me allowing aftermarket heads in Stock. Now I have number / date correct restoration parts.
I have a pair with hard seats installed and some unmolested ones.
Probably should put together all the '68 MO code (Z-28) parts I have.

Maybe NHRa did you a favor. Matched parts seem to go for a premium these days.

Hell the old stamped Vc's with Chevrolet stamped into them ar goiung for 100 a pair on ebay. Wonder how many here have trashed them when they bought some chrome vc's back in the day.

My gradfahter sold a set of dad finned corvette vc; for I think 15 bucks at a flee market.Pa was about antique stuff and trucks. Hell he sold a 1968 Riviera off car lot that had 455 (I think) with 2 x 4's on factory.$2500 Hate to know value of it now.

Thinking back about some of stuff most of us have had and/or trashed will tell you why we are broke dycks.

So anyone need some model t parts? Have two blocks, coils, starter or two, wheels and few other parts. Wonder where the car thing comes from.LOL

If I had put the 283 (forged) crank in my 327 block and stayed 4.00 it would have been 302. Same approach Vince Piggins and Zora Duntov came up with for the Z/28. Reason was 305 ci limit in Trans Am racing series.

I really want to build one just because they love high revs. I know me I would be pushing the limits and then some if went that direction.

This just a for the fun of it build. Hell not even sure what I am putting it for sure. Think I said earlier the buggy idea seems smartest. Hell that srews that idea it safest.

guess going to have to get new photo site so can size to fit and post here. Tried posting pics of rods and crank after polishing and grinding out rough finish.

Found a aluminum water pump stuck up on top shelf today that had forgotten about. So one more non cash out item. Provided its not junk. Shame no heads buried somewhere. These 305 junkers are short lived.