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DRR Sportsman |
I've got a few idea's, but in case I'm missing something obvious. 13' Stinger lift. My cars fit fine on the lift with 105-112" wheelbases, but my chassis tie downs are designed to pull out front and out back. Just curious how others are doing it. Thanks. | ||
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DRR Sportsman |
I X front and back. My tiedowns are behind/in front of the car. Mark Yeager | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
I have not put a car on the lift yet, but it looks like my chassis tie downs will be close to directly over the rings on the lift. It appears that I either need to bring the straps around the front and rear lift crossbars to kinda double up, or put different chassis tie downs on the car to pull opposite directions. | |||
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DRR Pro |
Mike, I am speaking from my expierence and several friends. I left Charlotte a couple of years ago heading home (350 miles). I stopped about 250 miles into the trip and found the front of my Vette roadster had walked over to about an inch from the edge. Straps were X’ed front and rear. I worked it over and came home. My buddy wasn’t so lucky, he had his 78 Camaro street rod rear walk on his lift and came off and was rubbing on the wall. I installed two D-rings in the middle of the lift. I now X the front and rear and put a strap to each side. Have been to Memphis and back (1000 miles each way) and no problems. Have heard the same story from several others. My lift is a stinger, factory installed by Renegade. Rob Robertson | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Any pics Rob? I have heard a couples stories like that. Mostly what I hear is about hoods and doors getting thrown around if not secured due to more movement on the top, than the bottom. Thanks. | |||
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DRR Pro |
Most people won't tie the lift down to the lower floor and expect the car to just sit still on a lift that is normally bouncing all over the place while going down the road. The lift is moving around in all these trailer and the pins seem to just beat everything up. I have been ratchet strapping the lift to the floor since I found my firebird on top of my golf cart on my ATC trailer that did not have a loft in the front top. X the straps when possible on the car but not an absolute necessity. I use one big strap in the front and one in the back to hold the lift from bouncing. Done this in the ATC, The T&E, as well as the Goldrush. Use straps to length the front end and ratchet strap the rear end worked best for me over the years. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Good times! Sounds like quite an interesting bunch of learning/mishaps.....lol. I guess I will need to get the car on the hoist and figure out the best situation. Thanks guys. Anyone with pics of they're car tied down would be greatly appreciated. | |||
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DRR Pro |
Mike, I can take some pics. Torqin, What do you tie the lift to in the floor? Did you put specific D-rings in to tie the lift down? Rob Robertson | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Thanks Rob. Stinger lifts have tie down loops on the bottom of the legs and the crossbars to put straps on each corner. | |||
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DRR Pro |
[QUOTE]Originally posted by Rob7181: Mike, I can take some pics. Torqin, What do you tie the lift to in the floor? Did you put specific D-rings in to tie the lift to the floor? Just put Carraige bolts on the ends of the lift and tie to the existing D ring holding each dragster rear tire down or install more d rings if needed. I also installed a roller on the end of the lift for 1 dragster to go on the door car lift to go upstairs when needed. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Keep the point to point length of the strap as short as possible, going from the lift to the car. Tie the car front and back each with a strap to keep the car from bouncing on the suspension. | |||
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