would like something I can leave attached to the pan and will run on 16 volts like a nitrous bottle heater does so I can heat the oil whenever needed. Pan is aluminum so nothing magnetic

Go

I am no expert on the subject but I believe the only 12/16 v heater you may find is a Nitrous heater. Which would work I assume. But I will tell you that those things have a lot of draw on a battery.

You can get pads that have adhesive on the back and just stick it to the pan. They are all just basically resisters so I believe they will get hotter on 16v than they would on 12v. Might possibly be something that 16v would be detrimental too. Not sure about the last statement because I have not done any research on that specifically.

I prefer the cartridge type but it would necessitate that you weld an npt bung into your pan.

Curtis

Do you run an engine diaper?



.

You can use a 110v oil pan heater. You are not going to be using it while running car only at the trailer.

quote:

Originally posted by XPS fan:
Do you run an engine diaper?



.

Carbon pan and its about 3/4 inch at best away from the pan. Have already been given the be careful you dont burn the mat warning

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
You can use a 110v oil pan heater. You are not going to be using it while running car only at the trailer.

Bruce I was hoping I could heat in the lanes if I get stuck there for an oil down like I did this weekend. I went up to the lanes at 170* and by the time I ran it an hour later it was down to 100*. I cant just sit there and run this engine in the lanes like you can a bracket motor, even after a short warm up the water was 140 and oil was barely 120* when I made the pass, I am more worried about the oil because of the amount of fuel is going thru this thing.
When I ran nitrous I had the bottle heater connected to the golf cart, I have an electric cart so I tapped into it at 18 volts, was hoping to do the same

Put an inverter on golfcart and run the 120 in pan style, or run a small 1000 watt generator.

Steve,

Is this the blown car?

quote:

Originally posted by Cashflow:
Steve,

Is this the blown car?

Yes

I wouldn't worry about heat lost in lanes. Then not my car. As for building heat just pull the shut off back till you hear it rev a little,will build heat fairly quick that way. You can also wire a solenoid to bypass some fuel(nitrous ones work) jet it for .060 or so.lean it till heat and let go of button and you are back to normal system.

Steve,

Who are you using for fuel system guy? Shouldn't be problem for them to set something up for you.

Takes much more time to heat the oil idling than it does with an oil heater. You can build water heat fast that way but not oil.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
Takes much more time to heat the oil idling than it does with an oil heater. You can build water heat fast that way but not oil.

Exactly!

The challenge is having enough battery energy to convert to heat to bring 100 degree oil to whatever you are looking for. Even a 360 watt stick on heater will take 15 minutes to do this. Even if you just try to maintain it instead of heating it, your time period is quite long. It's tough to get a battery to hold this much energy even if you can find a 12v heater that is up to the task.

An $100.00 Harbor Freight 800 watt generator and a adhesive oil pan heater is the simplest way. Just mount the generator on the back of your cart and use an extension cord. The little generator comes in handy to. But you know me as about as low buck racer there is.

quote:

Originally posted by Big Steve:

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
You can use a 110v oil pan heater. You are not going to be using it while running car only at the trailer.

...I cant just sit there and run this engine in the lanes like you can a bracket motor...

Weird, I thought you were running T/D?

If you Use JR1 oil with a good blowdown system you don't have worry as much about the oil contamination.

Are you circulating water while the engine is running? I can fire mine at sub 100, roll into the bleach box with the idle cranked and it will end up warmer than 140 at the cylinder heads by the end of the run, but I don't circulate water.

I saw one this weekend on A/fuel car. Was a dual burner hot plate strapped below oil pan. As low tech as you get,but second low et with 5.20 at 279.Then their whole deal was pretty low tech except the stuff that makes car go fast.

Yea not practical for bracket guys but was funny to see.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/USA-1...b:g:OMAAAOSwxk9ZlTk6

will draw 15 amps


Joe