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DRR Elite
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spending $200 on a box in an attempt to keep an electric "vacuum" pump from burning up in 10 minutes that will do "zero help to prevent moisture or help ring seal while the engine is running" makes no financial nor performance sense and if the oil is milking the carb is way rich!
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Big Steve
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Yup
 
Posts: 2551 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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tas,

you stated that you don't milk the oil in warm weather but do when it's cool. SO, define milk the oil. If you are just getting moisture on the valve covers and the oil is good, that one issue, if you are truly milking the oil then you are way too rich, either at WOT or idle or both and when it's warm, you are just getting the oil hot enough to boil out the alky!

Once you have the tune up right, you won't milk the oil, period! Removing any moisture in the crankcase without a vacuum pump is simple, put the car away HOT, take off the breathers on both valve covers and let the motor air out! And on cool/cold days you still could get some moisture on the valve covers if you don't get the oil hot enough!

And I agree, dump the electric vac pump idea......
 
Posts: 2163 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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TOP38...KNOWS!
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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First off want to thank EVERYONE that gave me different options and took time to reply! As mentioned a hand full of guys in this area have run the electric pumps for years and had great success all 12volt though. I had the stuff on the shelf thought I 'd give it a try. Turns out we got to run the motor at the track this past week, dyno said it was down on power and it was.
Long story short motor will come back out to see why its down about 60hp. Think cam may be wrong. Have run this same combo in 2 different cars 2 different but identical motors for years. Going to modify the cross bar. Try to use the bracket ED posted, need part # please. I have a Moroso pump and aerospace mandreal was saving for another motor.
Agian thanks to all
 
Posts: 23 | Location: Clarksville,Tn. 37042 | Registered: December 21, 1999Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Eman
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You never said what electric vacum pump you are using.
 
Posts: 1579 | Location: E TN | Registered: February 13, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of sr4440
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quote:
Originally posted by Eman:
You never said what electric vacum pump you are using.

Probably using a smog/air pump off of a 1996-2000 Ford Mustang. They pull about 6 SCFM. I use one to check for vacuum leaks.

Joe


Without data, you’re just another guy with an opinion.
 
Posts: 1313 | Location: TEXAS | Registered: February 07, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Pro
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Lean out the idle for warmup or use a vacuum valve with alky or use a Ron's gas plate to warm up the car on gas and to shut it down. All you do is run the carb out of fuel and then use the gas kit. Other option, run it hotter and at end of the day, get oil over 200 and remove vents from the valve cover to help "steam the water out". Circle track cars all over the country run alky with no vacuum pump, I did for the first year on the S10, got a little milky until I ran the engine hotter all day.
In your case, a few extra cases of oil per season, might be a lot cheaper than trying to redesign a vacuum pump.
BTW, yes, I now use a Moroso vacuum pump, doubled how long I went between oil changes, ZERO difference in the truck's ET or consistency.


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Posts: 1243 | Location: Janesville, IA | Registered: December 21, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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The pump I was trying was a Toyota pump that would pull between 4" to 6".

Ed posted a pic of a cool bracket earlier, but no part number. Is anyone familar with it, the brand or used one?
 
Posts: 23 | Location: Clarksville,Tn. 37042 | Registered: December 21, 1999Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Got my glasses out and its a Moroso!
 
Posts: 23 | Location: Clarksville,Tn. 37042 | Registered: December 21, 1999Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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for a sbc...Moroso #63817, 63818 or 63819 depending on the water pump you are using...Moroso, CSR or Meziere. They all require using a 93mm style alternator and a Moroso Enhanced vacuum pump
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
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quote:
Originally posted by tas472:
The pump I was trying was a Toyota pump that would pull between 4" to 6".

Somebody posted a pic of a cool bracket earlier, but no part number. Is anyone familar with it, the brand or used one?



Did you look at the one the guy (Scott) that owns this place sells? I've never used it but it looks pretty damn compact....
https://dragracesolutions.com/...p-mounting-brackets/


.
Dave



F J B

 
Posts: 4570 | Location: Earth | Registered: February 08, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
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quote:
Originally posted by TOP38:
tas,

you stated that you don't milk the oil in warm weather but do when it's cool. SO, define milk the oil. If you are just getting moisture on the valve covers and the oil is good, that one issue, if you are truly milking the oil then you are way too rich, either at WOT or idle or both and when it's warm, you are just getting the oil hot enough to boil out the alky!

Once you have the tune up right, you won't milk the oil, period! Removing any moisture in the crankcase without a vacuum pump is simple, put the car away HOT, take off the breathers on both valve covers and let the motor air out! And on cool/cold days you still could get some moisture on the valve covers if you don't get the oil hot enough!

And I agree, dump the electric vac pump idea......


I agree with and would add most of milking oil and wasted alcohol is due to way too fat at idle and low RPM. Once you get idle mixture and low RPM right it will warm up quicker, use less fuel and not milk the oil.

Also as TOP38 said get it HOT at the end of the day and it will evaporate or boil most of water and alcohol out of the oil. Water boils around 212* and alcohol around 160*? and even lower under a vacuum. Typically after final round I lean it out on return road and start building heat into the motor to get water and oil temp way up there.


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Posts: 4309 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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