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Race fuel prices ?
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DRR Pro
Picture of Goob
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Static compression ratio figures have NOTHING to do the fuel your engine requires.

Cam profile, temperature and RPM operating range are key in naturally aspirated engines. (dynamic compression)

I can run my 15:1 junk on 110 with no issues. Under 7000 RPM, stage temp under 140.

You couldn't pay me enough to put up with the irritation and maintenance of running alky for fuel.

Makes a good cheap brake clean solvent though!


"Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular."
Dave Cook
N375
 
Posts: 1649 | Location: Indy | Registered: November 21, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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quote:
Originally posted by Goob:
(dynamic compression)

which refers to DCR calculator = internet performance forum lore first posted back in the late 90s by an internet nobody Pat Kelly who plagiarized a bigger nobody...vizard
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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Well for starters Q is pretty much the same price, within a couple $$ of the other VP stuff anyway so I switched years ago and never looked back. More reasons to running Q than just a couple HP it provides. For me I have stuck with it due to the larger DA/weather swing that it takes for me to have to change a stop number or dial. The last reason is availability. Where I am our options are VP or Torco. We have tried Torco on the dyno and the track and it is similar to the VP fuel in performance but not quite as good. The reason I stick with VP is I can usually get it wherever we travel with any of the cars.

I am fairly familiar with all the gasoline based fuels out there as we have tried most everything available while running heads up stuff. I will stick with VP as we have seen it outperform anything else we have tried, to include Sunonco and "custom blends" like those from ERC. WE have tried every oxygenated fuel out there at one point or another as well and have settled on VP Q and or C45.

As for ethanol we used to run it in our dragster when my son first started racing. Had good success but availability was an issue in Vegas for a time. We ended up switching to VP C85 and I can tell you if I were to tun ethanol again it would hands down be the VP stuff. It is way cheaper than other racing gasoline but a lot more money than pump swill for sure


"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."
Marcus Tullius Cicero
 
Posts: 989 | Location: Las Vegas, NV | Registered: April 14, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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I have never seen and increase of .01 in ET or .1 mph when switching to VP from Sunoco and I would never run Q16 in a bracket engine, bigger waste of $ than just running their regular fuel.
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of SCDIV1
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I ran Q-15 for some time during one season

Motor sounded awesome on it and picked up MPH

I hated the stuff for the overpowering vapors

It was a blend of Q-16 + C-15 dreamed up by I think Stinett

My car started to be very un dialable and I blamed the fuel but believe it was problems with engine seal and intermittent loss of vacuum....

I went back to std fuel.....fixed the gasket issue
 
Posts: 2733 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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quote:
Originally posted by 1320racer:
I have never seen and increase of .01 in ET or .1 mph when switching to VP from Sunoco and I would never run Q16 in a bracket engine, bigger waste of $ than just running their regular fuel.


And we have tried them all, and tested them all. And I can guarantee if you did not see a difference then perhaps your carb was not properly calibrated for it. We have seen on the dyno that an "off the shelf" Q carb from a certain popular MI based builder be 38hp down from a carb built by someone else with their Q specific carb. It is not as simple as adding jet to take advantage of the fuel.

Waste of dollars. It is exactly $4 a pail more expensive than C14+. So if the 80 cents a gallon is a deal breaker then you have other issues.


"I am not ashamed to confess I am ignorant of what I do not know."
Marcus Tullius Cicero
 
Posts: 989 | Location: Las Vegas, NV | Registered: April 14, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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I have never run any Q fuel, I'm a bracket racer and I've been running Sunoco fuels for over 30 years without an issue.

Further, I recently got a friend who has run C15 forever to switch to Sunoco Blue which resulted in no loss in performance on the time slip, several dollar savings per gallon and he believes the car is more consistent.
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Pro
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Some using a carb or mfi on methanol use a lean out valve to aid in heating up the engine. The fuel consumption remains the same when the engine is running and valve open, it just heats faster. A primer plus can aid in warmup and running, but at an additional cost for the second fuel system.

Methanol with EFI runs more efficient than MFI or a carb I believe. I use almost 5 gallons in 7 runs using the primer plus driving to staging to get the engine temperature I desire which uses little. Then in stagging switch to methanol for the run and remain on EFI returning to my pit area. If going 30 minute runs or close to desired temp I leave the EFI on driving to staging.

In EFI I created an input to the ECU that removes 30% of methanol at under 6% throttle for engine idle warm up that works well in heating and conserving fuel. If inadvertently left on, it has no effect to the fuel map past 10% of throttle opening.

For maintenance I empty the fuel system of methanol using a pulley in a hand drill to run the fuel pump discharging into a jug. When empty, fill the 3 gallon fuel cell with gasoline and pump additional 1/2 gallon through. Cap off discharge, change the ECU fuel map and run the engine to temp on gasoline through injectors. Reverse for start of season.

I keep the fuel cell as full as possible when not racing using methanol.
 
Posts: 2457 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
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quote:
Originally posted by markemark:
Some using a carb or mfi on methanol use a lean out valve to aid in heating up the engine. The fuel consumption remains the same when the engine is running and valve open, it just heats faster. A primer plus can aid in warmup and running, but at an additional cost for the second fuel system.

Methanol with EFI runs more efficient than MFI or a carb I believe. I use almost 5 gallons in 7 runs using the primer plus driving to staging to get the engine temperature I desire which uses little. Then in stagging switch to methanol for the run and remain on EFI returning to my pit area. If going 30 minute runs or close to desired temp I leave the EFI on driving to staging.

In EFI I created an input to the ECU that removes 30% of methanol at under 6% throttle for engine idle warm up that works well in heating and conserving fuel. If inadvertently left on, it has no effect to the fuel map past 10% of throttle opening.

For maintenance I empty the fuel system of methanol using a pulley in a hand drill to run the fuel pump discharging into a jug. When empty, fill the 3 gallon fuel cell with gasoline and pump additional 1/2 gallon through. Cap off discharge, change the ECU fuel map and run the engine to temp on gasoline through injectors. Reverse for start of season.

I keep the fuel cell as full as possible when not racing using methanol.


Thats one of the advantages of finally switching on the EFI....I can use a different map until the engine warms up to a given temp...bet THAT would get great MPG...


.
Dave



F J B

 
Posts: 4463 | Location: Earth | Registered: February 08, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by Al Alguire:
And we have tried them all, and tested them all. And I can guarantee if you did not see a difference then perhaps your carb was not properly calibrated for it. We have seen on the dyno that an "off the shelf" Q carb from a certain popular MI based builder be 38hp down from a carb built by someone else with their Q specific carb. It is not as simple as adding jet to take advantage of the fuel.

Waste of dollars. It is exactly $4 a pail more expensive than C14+. So if the 80 cents a gallon is a deal breaker then you have other issues.


Al A Knows!

That being said, I've been bracket racing going on 35 years. I've ran most, if not all the different fuels & many different brands: pump, race leaded/unleaded, methanol, E85/welfare fuel. They all have their place with bracket racing & winning; pick your poison! Wink

I'm currently running Sunoco 260GT pump gas with water methanol injection. It works very well for bracket racing, going deep into the rounds & winning!

Pick your appropriate fuel for what you are doing & tune it to get your desired results.

2BKING Big Grin


1980 Camaro
Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before!
3000 lbs.
Pump Gas 436
 
Posts: 2545 | Location: NV. | Registered: October 20, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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I forgot, the 260GT is street legal 100 UL & has stayed at $9.98 gal. It hasn't fluctuated with all the different gas prices.


1980 Camaro
Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before!
3000 lbs.
Pump Gas 436
 
Posts: 2545 | Location: NV. | Registered: October 20, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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quote:

all this talk about race fuel cost per gallon by the OP who by his own admission has admitted to not having raced in 3 years and even if this is the year, he's lucky if he makes 25 passes all season because he lives in Cali, he's a wannabe go fast guy and he don't bracket race.


So, what!

You haven't raced in how many years? He bracket raced last year & will probably make more passes than YOU, this year! Dave is in the seat competing & having fun. Wink

2BKING Smile


1980 Camaro
Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before!
3000 lbs.
Pump Gas 436
 
Posts: 2545 | Location: NV. | Registered: October 20, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of 434 olds
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I can say for a fact that on my SBO (434CU) I had it on the Dyno and with the EFI set up for alcohol it made 816HP. Then we changed the tune up and switched to M5. It made 877HP. Not bad for a big gain with just a fuel change. I know a bunch of people that tried Q and M5 and claim they never picked up but they all had carbs. Just changing jets may not be enough. I believe the whole carb needs to be tailored to the specific fuel that you`re going to use.





Worlds Quickest And Fastest 71 Cutlass On The Planet Earth
 
Posts: 536 | Location: Oak ridge, N.J | Registered: February 09, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Elite
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Paul, I’d like to see the back to back time slips that support a 61HP gain from only swapping fuels.
 
Posts: 13522 | Location: NJ | Registered: August 20, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
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If I do a 5% Nitro mix and it definitely picks it up with MFI. I gave a 5% mixture to a friend with a carb and it did nothing at all.

I believe that is because of way they work. MFI is pressure / volume and a carb siphons fuel through boosters so the weight of the fuel would make a difference. 5% mixture is heavier and so a carb it is not pulling same volume of fuel as MFI would in same situation. EFI is similar to MFI in how it delivers the fuel.

With MFI and 5% you do not need to make any jetting changes. I think to make a carb work with it you would need to fatten it up a lot.

Now my stuff was done with Nitro and not the M5 which is supposed to similar to a 5% mix. And I rarely work with carbs now but I would like to experiment to make a carb work good with it. I bet I could get a good increase with a carb on M5 by tuning it. I think it all comes down to heavier fuel needs larger jets to pull same amount of fuel into motor. Where MFI is volume / pressure not weight.

I have seen significant horsepower increases from small amounts on the dyno and on the track so it does make a difference. My increases were not quite as big as 434OLDS but they were significant.


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-a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge.

Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue.

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Posts: 4009 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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quote:

Paul, I’d like to see the back to back time slips that support a 61HP gain from only swapping fuels.


The battleship picked up roughly 2 knots, partially because it was having issues with propeller cavitation! Wink

2BKING The Qs, M3 & M5; in carbs, just changing jets is not enough. If you didn't pick-up ET/MPH, the carb(s) wasn't right. Big Grin


1980 Camaro
Taking the Best Working Small Tire Shyt Box & making it Greater Than Before!
3000 lbs.
Pump Gas 436
 
Posts: 2545 | Location: NV. | Registered: October 20, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of SCDIV1
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I tried M-3 but I don't recall if I was running a Terminator or a carb......saw no gain

Q-15 was a substantial gain running a carb and just bumping jets a few numbers and it was consistent and dialable until I had a bad pan gasket that was killing vacuum from the pump.....Took a while before I found that problem.....No data recorder or gauge....
 
Posts: 2733 | Location: Where ever I am, I'm here and it's me | Registered: March 15, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Big Steve
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several years ago I played with 5-10% nitro mix with a Rons injection in my 565. The increases were minimal not worth the hassle and cost with dealing with nitro, but it sounded cool and the fumes sure pissed off anyone who was near my car when I warmed up in the lanes Big Grin
 
Posts: 2426 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of wideopen231
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you can cut cost of alky buy running leaner at idle.Lots of ways to do it.Fuel shut off is easiest.A lean out valve also works. As stated a lot of the consumption is driving up and back at very rich condition.Personally have not run gas in race car since 1986.

With some of the prices, I have seen for upper end fuels. Methanol with dose of nitro would be cheaper.LOL




America home of free. Brought to you by 2nd amendment.
 
Posts: 4185 | Location: Greensboro NC | Registered: May 24, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of 434 olds
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quote:
Originally posted by 1320racer:
Paul, I’d like to see the back to back time slips that support a 61HP gain from only swapping fuels.


Digging up time slips might be a problem but the car was running mid 8.50`s on alcohol and it went 8.32 with the M5. My dyno guy didn`t believe it either.





Worlds Quickest And Fastest 71 Cutlass On The Planet Earth
 
Posts: 536 | Location: Oak ridge, N.J | Registered: February 09, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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