I have a steel driveshaft in my S10 pickup and am considering switching to an aluminum version, in a desperate effort to reduce reaction times.

Would it be worth it? I am told the weight savings would be only about 7 lbs.

I believe the steel shaft is 3.5", with 1350-series U-joints.

A lower HP application, the truck runs 7.50 in the 1/8 mile and 11.90 in the quarter.
I foot-brake now and will for several years into the future.

Thanks!

With absolutely no experience or data with this change, I highly doubt you would find what you are looking for.

I'm guessing the only measurable difference would be the weight of your wallet.

I would say by itsekf you will not see the difference. As part of a package either taking rotating mass or just weight off it does add up and this form soneone caqlled fanatic about cutting weight, Just bout titainium drilled shaft for me junk. So hope I just lies to you about seeing difference.

QUESTION. do you hqve low friction bearings? Do not hqve to be high dollar ceramics. You can get blue stgeel for lot lessw and most of benifits of ceramic. qAxle bears and/or spindle bearings if have normaly show good return for th4 cost.IMO

damn it badNusz. his goit me to thinking about how heavy my fleaxplate is. Found three that have to be lighter since 6 big holes in them. Now drill mine on mill of buy new one. It is pretty heavy thicker than most I have used.

Going to do some research as to how much weight ot will actually remove, Hopefully get enough runs before putting cast on foot for diabetic shyt. That way i can work in shop and pull flex plate and reduce the weight and see what difference it makes.

Thanks bud ,just what I need a excuse to try something,LOL

Had buddy with fox body upgraded didn’t see any difference. And Wideopen good luck with foot I’ve been in cast going on three years because of diabetes

Consider trying some smaller diameter front tires.

PM sent top355x

The further out from the axes center-line the more influence weight has. 3.5" doesn't leave much room for improvement.

The money you spend on an aluminum drive shaft won't produce the results you are looking for. Use that money to invest in a blue bottle.

Bob

quote:

Originally posted by markemark:
Consider trying some smaller diameter front tires.

This.

Take care. Tom Worthington

quote:

Originally posted by Bad Nusz:
I have a steel driveshaft in my S10 pickup and am considering switching to an aluminum version, in a desperate effort to reduce reaction times.

Would it be worth it? I am told the weight savings would be only about 7 lbs.

I believe the steel shaft is 3.5", with 1350-series U-joints.

A lower HP application, the truck runs 7.50 in the 1/8 mile and 11.90 in the quarter.
I foot-brake now and will for several years into the future.

Thanks!

No on the driveshaft swap. Lighter rear wheels would be more help, but probably not enough.

Stiffen your front shocks, limit the up travel.
More rear tire pressure.
Radial slicks.?
I guess you have gone to the limit on stage/launch RPM?

What's your current comfortable spot get you for R/T?

The shocks and tire pressures alone should be able to net you about .030 or more in adjustment.

Iknow the Jr. Fuel guys had one std issue GY tire they all ran becuae of weight. I think 25 vs 34 lbs. All swore it was difference in running and having chance to win.

I have machined rear gear,4 lbs less.Titainium studss,mag, spacers and aluminum lugs on car. Again probably never see on et slip sperate b ut when all done to gether it makes difference.

I would thi9nk if reaction time main goal a front tire diameter would be helpful. drink 3 or 4 rebulls before running might help too I know with me it would help old ass driver.

Agree with Goob about shocks and tire pressure and if at all possible more rpm. Not that I have ever ran foot brake but have listened to lots and they always seems to be the go to things for all. POlus I stayed at motel 6(think its that one) last week.

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
damn it badNusz. his goit me to thinking about how heavy my fleaxplate is. Found three that have to be lighter since 6 big holes in them. Now drill mine on mill of buy new one. It is pretty heavy thicker than most I have used.

Going to do some research as to how much weight ot will actually remove, Hopefully get enough runs before putting cast on foot for diabetic shyt. That way i can work in shop and pull flex plate and reduce the weight and see what difference it makes.

Thanks bud ,just what I need a excuse to try something,LOL

You're welcome. I think.
Be careful, plz; that might weaken the flexplate to an appreciable degree. For a slight weight savings.
There may be lighter ones on the market that are tested and are safe?

BTW, off-topic perhaps, and I'm no doctor, but would a ketogenic or even a carnivore diet be an option for diabetes? Much info on YouTube about it. Stay well.

Thank you all for the input about aluminum driveshafts. It sounds I would likely not notice any difference outside of a laboratory.

$700 is too much to risk on a likely failed experiment.
I don't need to squeeze every tiny bit of speed out of my combo.

The money may be better invested in a upgraded torque converter, though I still have an old, higher-stall converter that I used to run.

With my current converter I lost about .1 second in the 60', but gained about 4 MPH at the top end. It seemed like a good trade at the time.

I'm thinking the "blue bottle" is not allowed in Sportsman class, and would likely put me under the 7.50 index.
Cheers!

Been several years since I was able to race, but I think I remember a few tricks. As I recall, Air pressure as well as tire/wheel diameter can affect reaction times. Lower tire pressure slows RT down, more pressure makes it a little quicker. As someone else mentioned, Smaller diameter will quicken it up as well. Air pressure trick is free, so may be a good starting point.

Nusz, how much do you weigh? Just a thought but if you're like me it won't help. I'm 165 soaking wet. LOL

If you are of the foot your only options are -deep stage or smaller front tires I saw it mentioned about a good spot on the tree thats funny because after LED bulbs have been around they are iether on or off nothing in between to find your spot-aint there try staging then bumping in 1 or 2 bumps with the brakes

Agree with vetman on b umping in.If me I would find a alignment spot window post or tape on woindon you can move for different tracks. That way same spot everytime. Jm2c and probablu over priced at that.

quote:

I'm 165 soaking wet.

You should be able to meet that criteria over the next 5 days in OK!!!