What are you running for toe on dragster. Normally run 1/16 in. Last night car kept going right and would not stay away from wall or centerline. Thank 330 blocks at farmington are still shaking from last pass.LOL Hey got their attention anyway.

Was consistent both run 6.02 and 603 shutting off at and before 330's. Told dad and brother I could run todays bracket just dial 6.02, shut off after scaring **** out of guy in right lane.LOL

So what are you running. Did see few say 1/4 total seems like a lot,but if works.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,

I'm at 1/8".

The toe in is not your problem if it is going to the right. Your rear end could be off center to the left a little or your rear end could have some rear steer in it. Left rear tire could have more rollout. The chassis could be flexing, there are several things it could be but toe in is not your problem here.

Maybe chassis flex. rearend is about as dead nuts on pr as close as gets. I know I built car and meaured it few hundred times. Rollout is less than 1/4" difference. Old habiit I guess but I check roll out everytime car is in air.
Rollout was my first thought, To be to point it is pulling right it would have to be inch or so. It is not going right it is pulling right like biutch. take it back to center and it wants that stripe.

Did find that rack and pinion mount has minor flex. Then niot under load going down track. Strength it. Damn weight worried guy installed it should hsave used thicker material.LOL

Have toe reset. to 1/8 to 3/16 as accurate at can get with measuring tape anyway. If tires a simple swap will tell. Kind iof hate to break one at a gtime rule. Kind of hate to waste runs since onlty getting about 3 and maybe 4 per outting. Damn 60 mile tow with piedmont shut down which is 18 miles from house.

Hell guess not complain since first leave Friday every thing electric worked as should. SLE with delay off allowed it tp kick in almost exactly same time as second light was on good and 2step tickled it only few beats. Surprised me it was all working and paying enough attention tio it that grandma in walker would have better light.LOL Toe did seem off and remeber had it all apart when building new nose piece.

Stripped car down and going over chassis with 2000 grit comb today air on in trailer as I type. Check everyh weld and recheck rearend but know it is well under 1/16 since never found more than that and out of 100 checks only found that once or twice and that can be tape sag angle ir user. Probably last but I do use one for living now days.

Little long post but covering few things for clearer picture.

Only things know so far. Alignment was off maybe 1/16 wrong way. Number two it is the drivers, crewc chiefs and chassis builders fault. Sucks getting all the blame.

It’s not the rollout either. My first set of mickeys, before I learned to measure and stretch/shrink if needed, were 3/4” different. Driving through the pits it would pull in whichever direction had the smaller tire, but it was straight as a string going down the track.

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Posts

184N brings up another point I failed to mention that leads me ti think front end. Car would pull right towing back after loosing fuel at pickup on shut down

Kind of like stgreet junk when from end is out and let go of wheel. Pulls one or other.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,

makle that 110 rerarend location checks, Yes I mean the one in the car.

9 found zero difference first one heart attack. 1st ad bar across motor plate measureing to axle, Bar bent about 1/8 over 5', 1st readiong off almost 1/4". Flipped and off other way.Told wife needed boobs to face to revive. yea no help there.LOL Got have some fun with this ****.

Chassis flex. Take car on flat ground and stand on frame in middle of the car and move up and down. It should flex an inch or so, if it flexes 2 or 3 inches or more it is too flimsy.

Also take the car up on stands behind motor and on rear axle and then try to twist front end, if you can twist it much that is a problem.

Final thing try adding some weight on very front of the car, just 20 Lbs due to leverage can make all the difference in the World. For a while my FED was pulling to the left. There was actually rubber scrubbing off on right side of the tire. It would pull to the left but as soon as I let off it would straighten up. Under power it was taking most all the weight off the front tires and they were not doing much.

Bottom line with a front engine hardtail dragster weight balance and chassis flex is critical. When you get it right the car will run fast and straight but you still have to be careful and ease into brakes or use parachute as they will get into a bounce.

Chassis has very little flex or twist. Never has. Curly I know your fed had issue with that but not this one.I can jack car up right or left front and very little twist, Has some but hell 225" will twist some no matter what. Now may be proven wrong about it being stiff enough.

After finding issue with front end being out some ,some flex in rack and pinloion box mount and long talk with mister Parks. I am pretty sure they are both problems and possibly need longer steering arms to slow reaction of steering. Not that I feel like reacted too qucik when going to wall 3 times b4 shut off and then two hard trys at centerline b4 shutting off after scaring 330 blocks. Was kind of fun ride.LOL Figure 1.14 and 1.16 60's not bad for low 4500 leave. 4 to 6* below what think will like being at and rich fuel. Figure pull .010 at pump,add 2 degrees at hit and raise leave 500, O010 to .02 would be better, Plus work on steering issue and see if make it to finish line again, Never had steering issue with it b4.
2s week to change few things b4 next shots. So can change few things as long as can limit it to what needs instead what want to do.If 95* **** may be longer.

Do not think front needs weight. May be worng but it steers find except pulls to right.One rerason have not bought few light weight pieces for front yet. Hate to spend that kind iof money then have to add weight back. Unelss have set of wire fronts and need weld aluma star for trade. Going to try few things including swapping tires around if all else fails then will add weight to front. Damn it hurt typing that.

Calm down guy on changes. Nothing effecting car runs. Stuff like carbin fiber dash, remove tach. adding ti rear studs andc aluminum lugs have in shelf for 3 weeks. Once get new drive shaft and colars will be changing those, All nothing but wieght saving deals.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
Chassis has very little flex or twist. Never has. Curly I know your fed had issue with that but not this one.I can jack car up right or left front and very little twist, Has some but hell 225" will twist some no matter what. Now may be proven wrong about it being stiff enough.

My car worked pretty good, I won a lot of races with it, 2 Championships in that car and only had one aborted run in its career. Car got down the track and won races. Still I test and make it better. Always have, I want my cars to go straight down the track fast and consistent and they do.

Every time myself or anyone else tells you what they think it is you say that is not the problem and continue doing same thing. Now you talking about pulling .010 on the fuel pump, changing timing and other stuff. You may want to get the car to go straight first. You have made what maybe 20 passes and it looks like you have almost hit the wall or centerline how many times? Looks like from your post above at least 6 aborted runs, something is wrong and you better resolve it before you crash the car.
And what do you think changing fuel and timing is going to do to make car go straight? Am I missing something here?

Concentrate on getting one problem resolved and that is getting it to go straight then work on motor and other stuff to get it faster and or more consistent. If you are not going to do that at least tell them you want solo runs so you do not take out anyone else's car when you crash.

As to your original question 1/8" to 1/16" is good, once again that is not your problem. Which is why I gave you other possible things to check.

My opinion but you will not listen to that. A car that runs straight, fast and consistent will win more rounds, races, money and is more fun.

So how do others know if something has been checked and found to be not issue if do not tell them?

If I ask a question about my car it is because i have went thru everything I can think of and nothing has proven to be at fault. After 46 years playing with these thing I have seen a bunch as have lot of you guys. Me asking your opinion is very high level respect I do understand some of you have been in brackets whole life and seen lot in class I may have not so I ask. I will also tell you if checked and found not it. Sry if hurts feelings that I say not it. Other than nmile long explination of everythiung checked not sure how to tell you that part is good.

I guess could list everything checked. In some cases would be mile long list.

On Curly comment on tuning of engine combo. I see no reson not to fix a issue you know needs attention. I Calculated engine about .020 on rich side. New combo in car little bigger engine and easing into tune. Same with timming figure 4 to 6 degrees below optimal. Good 60's lat friday but not great and data shows soft. If goes ape **** at hit I will know backup. Going to right has nothing to do with that part of run. Why waste a run to fix later?

Oh and more than the 20 runs and only one close to wall and one to centerline. Have been 5 teens and should be .2 or more better and never went right. So something in between. Guessing something I moved during some working. Lots of suggestions could not be changed or easily.

everything points to alignment so far which is why I asked what running instead of what is causing it. Not that I kinmd suggestions but at same time if know not issue why not state it?

Not to start bunch of BS, but since being called out for not taking suggestions and rereading some of post.

Please explain how can not be alignment? I mean if tire is out to right it can not make car pull that way until steering input and then back after removed? Heck guess no reason to set alignment or question if tire not going to effect direction during run. Explain

Another possibility. Are you too light on the front to the point where steering has little effect.

Anything is possible. I know I am 46 lbs over what Parks says I had to have to be able to drive it. 300 in front end or you will not be able to drive the SOB quote and i am at 346# accoring to scales I borrowed for pro stock shop.

I am in doubt because it does respond to input but once let off after getting back towards center it wants to go back to right.

Too qucik correction because of length of steering arms is thought. Frank told me I may need 6" arms on it and has to be a reason they make them.That and little bit play in steering shaft, Minor but may allow wheel to go right of center epsecially if already a degree or two in that direction, Not that I found anything checking alignment of each wheel to center and toe. Car pulling right on return road being towed back on last run when pump lost prime. Can add another 12 or 16 lbs in tank which is 5" behind fron axle line. Battery is already 14" in front of axle line.Not lite weight battery either.

Thanks for question, Did bring up the slop issue and will check in hour or so when damn temp outside drops some. Summer suck heat suck. If not for big **** in small bikinis no reason for summer.LOL

May have a winner. The slop that can barely see in shaft movement. adds up to 3/8" outter edge of front wheel.

Go a head and point out flaw in this, Not like need to ask.LOL When steering car any the slop allows the wheel to get a head of input or self directs when letting go back to center. If right is outwards any it will pull and taking up slop will add to it.

You were probably pointed to the right from the start .

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Originally posted by W.A.O. 111:
You were probably pointed to the right from the start .

Nogt according to brother. He works with lots of teams and been trained pretty well over yuears by me and others. Does tgrack specialist of one pro stock team as well as clutch. I could possibly screw it up ;lat foot or so staging . dfriver will screw shiut up you know.

Then let your brother drive it to see what he thinks