Had a buddy with lights all over the place. Changed everything possible to fix the issue. Removed the SLE and problem solved. I'm not saying that it doesn't work for some, but it's a potential problem. As for the fuel, with MFI,at WOT you're dumping fuel in your engine while you're sitting on the line unless you run some type of electronic bypass like #3048.
I've used all the bypasses and it's more of a headache. I've always hit the throttle at the second bulb to eliminate all of the potential problems with all of the additional devices.

dragstermike,

Thats reason I have been trying every trick I cold to make sle open at later point. I could if using different brand delay,but I just happened to buy the one that does not allow you to change time on sle opening.

Lots use both with no issue and not sure mine would be,but less pieces is less to mess up. Plus driver needs to do something besides let go of button on time. Also when practicing routine in car it feels unnatural . Now if can just quite pulling left foot at same time as hitting throttle , i think I got it.LOL

I have raced MFI on a full and pro-tree with and without an SLE for about 20 years. With all due respect, you are WAY overthinking and over-complicating this. If you want to race without an SLE, that's great - many do with success, but the very reason why it was invented was to increase consistency by reducing the time the motor is on the rev limiter to the minimum. If it opens too late, you run the risk of not being at WOT every time. If you want to drive it yourself and deck the throttle on the second amber every time then don't use a SLE but this can sometimes be difficult to do consistently, especially for a middle of the pack car that sometimes leaves first & sometimes leaves second. The SLE allows you to do the same thing regardless of whether or not you leave first or second while keeping your motor on the rev limiter for only a brief amount of time (probably less than if raced on a pro-tree), and there are probably thousands of MFI bracket cars doing this all across the country while putting hundreds of runs on their engines! It sounds like in your confusing quest to "keep it simple" and not teach an old dog new tricks, you are making it as complicated as possible! Don't get me wrong - I have great respect for racers who innovate and try new stuff, and I also completely understand wanting to use a proven combo to be competitive and keep it simple & consistent but you have to choose. Its like coming on here and asking "how do you guys keep an eye on your tire pressure and keep it consistent but without using a tire gauge?"

This message has been edited. Last edited by: BD104X,

^^^ Great post!

Or if you really don't want to hit the 2-step, just wire the SLE right to the transbrake terminal. When the transbrake releases, the car goes WOT at the same time and away you go!

Would be kinda like footbraking, but with a delay box. Would work with any box. Not sure about consistency but I don't think it would be too bad with the MFI.

BD104X,

Great post, couldn't have said it better myself. If you want to lessen the supposed damage that the rev limiter causes then buy an ignition box that uses a digital rev limiter. I have been using the 6AL Programmable for quite a few years now and it has been flawless.

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:
^^^ Great post!

Or if you really don't want to hit the 2-step, just wire the SLE right to the transbrake terminal. When the transbrake releases, the car goes WOT at the same time and away you go!

Would be kinda like footbraking, but with a delay box. Would work with any box. Not sure about consistency but I don't think it would be too bad with the MFI.

I tried that years ago with a 400hp+/- engine with a gas carb. The car would print out identical 60' times,but RT was all over the place.

Billy is right on the $. I’ve raced with a Ron’s Terminator, brackets and pro tree and never had any problem. SLE or not. Pro Tree on a 2 step for a couple seconds tops and full tree I’ve even run brackets and on the 2 step when 4 bulbs are on and no sle. Never hurt anything. Using a K&R box and a Biondo Mega box. 2 different cars, 4 different engines going back to the late 1990’s ! I know plenty of people running Pro Tree Racing with Terminators and no sle and they mat it with 4 bulbs lit run after run and win races. I have used every starting line technique there is and the SLE works fine with a K&R box and a Terminator. I adjust my throttle so when I fully mat it when 4 bulbs are on, I am at 3000-3200 rpm. Mimics Pro Tree Racing routine and kept me from having brain fade. I pretty much stopped bracket racing a few years ago.....

the reason the sle was invented was to improve consistency,it does.

First I never said it did not work for most folks. Especially those running Hilborn style BV or enderle cube. Do not know it will not work with K style BV which is lot less restrictive especially when WOT.Plus Good portion run smaller pumps like .5 or equivalent . I just don't like it with my setup. Not as it works with the K&R which is only box you can not adjust time on.Other than that I love the K&R box nothing wrong with it.

As for complicating it.I see it just the opposite,reason for post. I am doing away with it for now and wanted input from others not suing it as to results from their routines. Complicating it was when I was trying everything possible to make work with box in way I wanted. Can not be done.So until I have 600 bucks extra I am going back to my old dog tricks,they worked before,but I was 30 years younger and I am sure a better driver.

2 step may work great and be smooth as silk with digital ignition. Mine is MSD pro mag, which is what I have laying on shelf and what I prefer,yes old dog again or broke dyck which ever you like.

Working on spring loaded stop that lets you know when at stage rpm 4000 or so.Then on 3rd bulb I can slam it and be up on edge of or on 2 step for .0-- seconds(guestimation). Not enough to bother me or can adjust and still be same when TB releases. If sounds complicated sorry seems petty simple,hell its a adjustable spring. Its old design I used 20 years ago on ALKY cars for stage,just redesign few minor points.

Might try the tied to TB deal also.

Now as for KISS statement.One look at fuel
system on car would tell probably not going to happen. Eliminating piece that I don't like operation of is going to happen.Until I make them operate the way I want.

You need no RPM above idle to stage an automatic transmission-equipped dragster.

There is no way in hell you can stage an automatic transmission-equipped dragster at anything approaching 4000 RPM.

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:
You need no RPM above idle to stage an automatic transmission-equipped dragster.

There is no way in hell you can stage an automatic transmission-equipped dragster at anything approaching 4000 RPM.

Not going to stage at 4000 its the rpm once staged. Going to stage at idle,set button(zforse) bring up some,go 4000 as hit button on first bulb,go wot after second bulb has been on or as 3rd is coming on and that should allow plenty of time to be at rev limiter 5600 or so when brake releases. Pretty much exactly SCDIV1 said in last part of his statement,
except the rpm numbers. If don't work numbers can be changed 4000 is just warget for strong spring pressure. Getting butter fly gap right for number is only trick part,even more so with hat being bigger than ideal.D ported birdcatcher,again its whats laying here now.Will be 2 blade shotgun style injector once I get a shaft for the build. 2/3's area and easier to see around and over.

Again not against SLE,just not going to go wot,on 2step and wait with motor dropping cylinders until tb releases. If its for you fine I am not going to run my car that way. So until I can make sle work like I want I will run it as stated or with modifications and I just wanted input from those not using SLE. Seemed simple enough,guess not.

We're all just doing our best to understand the stuff you leave on the page, Chris.

I understand.
Please no one take this as insult.

I often talk in steps and leave something out figuring obvious and easy to fill in. This is where I thank President trump gets in trouble alot ,he makes statement in generalization figuring everyone will know how its meant.What happens they interpret another way.

Ok then... let’s say you’re dialed 9.00 & you run 1.030 in delay. If you want to go to full throttle .03 later, just set your delay at 1.000, your dial at 9.00 and your opponents dial at 9.030. Tell the track to turn off Cross-talk if they use it and hit your top. You’ve now fooled your SLE into opening .03 later. You can increase or decrease your delay by changing your opponents dial in the box but hit your top bulb. You now have an incredibly complex solution to a simple problem that allows you to utilize all of your stuff! Just because you CAN do something doesn’t make it a good idea... Good luck!

or do away with sle till I can buy new delay that allows me to adjust opening time and use delay to adjust for my light.Even simpler and more versatile.

In simplest terms.Until I have another delay box where I can adjust opening time even the man upstairs will not get me to run sle that opens on second bulb with 2 step swapping cylinders. Hence the original reason for post and not to debate rather I should run it or not.Because reason for debate is for one to change others mind.I don't see need to change others and mine will not be changed,so no reason to have one.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,

Chris,
I don't use an SLE even though I built my car with one.
I get you about not wanting to mix cylinders BUT I would try it the way you want to first
** Decking it yourself **
That is what I do.

You will be surprised at how little time it actually hits the limiter because by the time you think about it then actually do it and then the car comes up it is only a FRACTION of a second.

Below is a video of me decking it myself.
In qualifying I let go of the button then deck it (usually by second yellow).
If you slow the video down you can hear it just BARELY hits the 2 step with the butterfly's not opening all the way until the last yellow.
I get what you want to do BUT TRY IT FIRST. You might be surprised that you don't need to change/build anything.
Watch it here.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rywyVzilxZU

Below vid is a little better look, you can actually see the throttle linkage move to when it hits the limiter.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-asoNGeCAiA

If you don't like it that way then you can always spend $$ later.
Just my 2 cents.

Frank,

Exactly. I figure with injection w/o big fan under it ,it will take little longer. Figure bring rpm up some be rady to go WOT and it should be on limiter almost same time as TB releases Heck use to swapping feet and same thing except now only using foot. Beside with all of the automated stuff. I don't much more to do for run. Not like staging,jacking car to 6500 plus or minus 250,dropping clutch,shaking eye balls to big blur,refocus while pushing second and waiting second and half for third,hoping no bang and dump laundry at 1250 or so feet. LMAO

Already have sle on car and functioning. Doing routine practice,the time between hitting button,flys open and then wait,and wait for tb to release.Shyt feels like I should be getting out and wrapping chutes around wing on return road. Thats w/o hearing my engine swapping cylinders like slutt at frat party.
Hell spending cas later has never been problem.List of I need is almost as long as I want list,well maybe half as long.

Yours is short hit on 2 step and with blower it still unnerving and your are paying the bill.

Signature line off little. He built Hemi so he could quit running over the crank when he added more blower.

What rusty said - SLEs were meant to increase consistency and they do.

I have done testing and have data to back it up. Being on the chip for the same amount of time each run is critical for consistency. The longer you're on the converter the looser it gets. Even a half second matters!

On a time trial it's no big deal to let go then mat it. But you better not spot someone a big head start during eliminations and floor it too soon because it WILL change the stall of the converter and your 60' too! This is the problem the SLE solves.

If you want to control the time off of the SLE solenoid, you might try a delay off timer.

DAYTON Single Function Encapsulated Timing Relay, 12 to 125VDC, Mounting: Surface, SPST-NO
Item # 5WML7 Mfr. Model # 5WML7 Catalog Page # 222 UNSPSC # 39121519 about $22.00

Gives a few steps and will hold off the event for 0.05, 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8 or 1 second.

Should work with about 2 amp 12vdc CO2 solenoid. If it is wired differently, try a delay on timer.

quote:

posted September 12, 2018 12:27 PM Hide Post
If you want to control the time off of the SLE solenoid, you might try a delay off timer.

DAYTON Single Function Encapsulated Timing Relay, 12 to 125VDC, Mounting: Surface, SPST-NO
Item # 5WML7 Mfr. Model # 5WML7 Catalog Page # 222 UNSPSC # 39121519 about $22.00

Gives a few steps and will hold off the event for 0.05, 0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8 or 1 second.

Should work with about 2 amp 12vdc CO2 solenoid. If it is wired differently, try a delay on timer.

those do work i have one on my car but doing something different