Car is a 65 chevy A-body, tires Mickey Pro bracket radials, spool, 4.56, slow car 1/8 = 7.0 street strip, car hooks consistently on poor tracks until a recent 100*+ day. the left rear PBR is getting chewed up pretty bad it has the grainy look to it, causing 2 consecutive runs to make a move to the left off the line. Right looks normal, 75 passes on this pair. These tires usually last me 250-300 passes. Car has a spool & a lot of hard tight left turns in the return & pits. Added weight & took out timing & was able to make it to the semis. Any ideas what's causing this? Tires too hot? Too tight of turns on the soft PBR's? too long of a burnout?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: grpweld,a.k.a. your huckleberry,

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:
[QUOTE]Originally posted by grpweld,a.k.a. your huckleberry:
Car is pulling hard to the left off the hit. Any ideas what's causing this? Tires too hot? Too tight of turns on the soft PBR's? too long of a burnout?

Answer to your 1st ? is in the first sentence. You have less traction on the left rear, that's why the car is pulling left & the tire issue.

2BKING

First off the fact you are going hard left at the hit says you have an issue. Corner weights could be off, four link or ladder bar not set up right, rear end bent or not straight with chassis. Could be a bad shock or a few other things. But the issue is not the tire it is the chassis set up.

Start by checking for bend or binding rod ends on four link. Check for binding in the suspension. Scale the car and see what you have.

Swap the tires side to side.
I know they're directional tires, so you'll have demount / mount them.
More heat = less burnout.
I don't hold the line lock at all when the track is warm.
Dragster burnout.

That's useful advice Dave Thanks

quote:

Originally posted by grpweld,a.k.a. your huckleberry:
Car is pulling hard to the left off the hit. Added weight & took out timing & was able to make it to the semis.

Unless you fixed the car from pulling hard left at the hit with adding weight & pulling timing (both a crutch). After swapping tires, you will have the same issue with the normal tire graining up on the left side.

2BKING

If you let the wheel go at 50mph does it steer to the left?
If so the wheelbase isn’t equal L To R sides.

The OP has had issues with this car for a long time, those issues are made worse on a hot greasy track. This see should not be on a radial.

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:

quote:

Originally posted by grpweld,a.k.a. your huckleberry:
Car is pulling hard to the left off the hit. Added weight & took out timing & was able to make it to the semis.

Unless you fixed the car from pulling hard left at the hit with adding weight & pulling timing



(both a crutch). After swapping tires, you will have the same issue with the normal tire graining up on the left side.

2BKING

Car only went to the left because the left tire got too hot & feathered or some call it graining. It pulled to the left twice only

NO not at all Even hard on the brakes

quote:

Originally posted by B.C.Malibu:
If you let the wheel go at 50mph does it steer to the left?
If so the wheelbase isn’t equal L To R sides.

Again, this car should not be on radials

I am going to say it again. There is a chassis issue. Period. If car pulls to left and one tire is wearing different than the other those are both signs chassis is not Straight, rod ends are binding, shock is bad or something. Unless something was wrong with track.

While there may or may not be a better tire choice, I can say you have a chassis issue and you will have similar problem with any tire you run.

quote:

Originally posted by grpweld,a.k.a. your huckleberry:
car hooks consistently on poor tracks until a recent 100*+ day. the left rear PBR is getting chewed up pretty bad it has the grainy look to it, causing 2 consecutive runs to make a move to the left off the line.

This isn’t a chassis issue, it’s a track issue!

This time of year racers complain the loudest and in unison about track/starting line issues. The fact is a great many bracket cars don’t work, leave on the tire and it shows when the track is hot, greasy and balding. Cars that are set up to work on the worse tracks in the worse conditions get down any track anywhere…

https://youtu.be/rbKYio6OvKM

That said, the OP has been struggling with this car on radials since at least 2015, 8 years based on his previous posts here going back to 2018…

quote:

Originally posted October 16, 2018 10:42 PM by grpweld,a.k.a. your huckleberry:
lots of ups and downs used to be a 10.3 car now 10.5 car to make the radial work. Seems like wheel speed at launch is crucial, tough thing is cutting a light adjusting the rpm to control spin. I'm still tryin to figure it out after 3 yrs

Again, this car should not be running radials.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,

What makes a car suited to radials? I know a lot of racers that successfully run radials, varying weight hp and suspension setups, but all are highly competitive cars low 7.20s to 5.70s and many in between. It definitely seems to take a different chassis tuning approach.

I am asking this as a serious question. What would make a car more or less suited to radials or is it simply dependent on tuning for it?

quote:

Originally posted by BG7X77:
What makes a car suited to radials? I know a lot of racers that successfully run radials, varying weight hp and suspension setups, but all are highly competitive cars low 7.20s to 5.70s and many in between. It definitely seems to take a different chassis tuning approach.

I am asking this as a serious question. What would make a car more or less suited to radials or is it simply dependent on tuning for it?

BG,

I'm surprised you even you even give 2 shyts about his Keyboard BS. He had to Special Edit/EDiot his reply; he was confused if it was a track issue or a set-up issue.

It's not the car; it's the set-up & burnout for the conditions is what matters.

As for the whining about the 100+ degree temps or even cold temps. Our family car is set-up to get down the track competitively in extreme hot or cold conditions & everything in between. We are on a 29.5x10.5 Pro Bracket Radial with a spool. Our home track is Las Vegas Motor Speedway & see 100+ degree temps in 2-4 months of our racing season. We also see 40-50 degree temps 1-2 months of the season. We have no grainy/feathering tires on our car & no pulling left our right. Our car is set-up correctly for all the conditions listed in this paragraph.

As for Keyboard EDiot/Special ED, he's clueless/scared in the cold conditions & his Focus!

Now for the OP, keep on trying.

2BKING

One thing you need to do is to swap rear tires from one side to the other until you get your chassis set up right. That may help for a little while but soon left rear tire will start doing it again proving you have a chassis issue. If that one tire is too far gone you may have to get a new set of slicks. Still you have to get chassis right. You can blame it on track prep or what ever but fact is when your car is set up right the tires will wear more evenly, the car will go straight and hook up most any where any time.

There are always a few cars that hook up good on any track even when others can not.

There is always some others who complain track is junk, does not hook. Blame the track and say they are not running their car on the junk track any more.

The difference is chassis set up and making car work on any track in varying temperatures.

The car may or may not need radials. Honestly I do not know or care here because that is not the problem. The problem is you have one tire wearing different than other and car moves left off the line. Those are both signs of a chassis issue, something bent or broken, not straight, binding or what ever and regular bias ply slicks or radials you will still have same problem until you fix chassis. Seems like simple common sense to me the car is telling you what it needs, listen to it.

Once chassis is set up right then you can determine if it would be better with radials or regular slicks.

Even if it was a track issue then others would have same problem and still those set up properly would be as bad if at all.

There is no one actively on this forum with more experience, having made more passes on radial slicks than me. Further there is no one here with more experience with the GM A body suspension and I’ve been 1.28 in 60 foot off the foot brake at 3880 lbs.!

https://youtu.be/rbKYio6OvKM


The OP will continue to struggle, slowing his car down to make the radials work on cool tracks, spinning on hot tracks while he continues to talk about “wheel speed” which is a non factor with radials, as the clueless here that think they know continue state their opinion.

Keyboard Racer, the one whom is clueless is YOU old man; Get with the times!

I have more experience with the M/T Pro Bracket Radials in both weather extremes, both hot, cold & in between. Not an opinion, that's a FACT!

I have many runs over many years on the old school Hoosier radials. While there are similarities between the old & new school radials. The new stuff is much more forgiving & the OP is still struggling with the tire!

Please bring to the thread, your specific experience using the M/T Pro Bracket Radial that the OP is using.

2BKING giving a shout out to the M/T Pro Bracket Radials.

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:
Keyboard Racer, the one whom is clueless is YOU old man; Get with the times!

I have more experience with the M/T Pro Bracket Radials in both weather extremes, both hot, cold & in between. Not an opinion, that's a FACT!

I have many runs over many years on the old school Hoosier radials. While there are similarities between the old & new school radials. The new stuff is much more forgiving & the OP is still struggling with the tire!

Please bring to the thread, your specific experience using the M/T Pro Bracket Radial that the OP is using.

2BKING giving a shout out to the M/T Pro Bracket Radials.

You started it now. Little Ed is going to start bragging about that time he won a Wally.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:


This isn’t a chassis issue, it’s a track issue!

This time of year racers complain the loudest and in unison about track/starting line issues. The fact is a great many bracket cars don’t work, leave on the tire and it shows when the track is hot, greasy and balding. Cars that are set up to work on the worse tracks in the worse conditions get down any track anywhere…



Again, this car should not be running radials.

Little Ediot contradicts himself right here. He says its a TRACK ISSUE and not a Chassis issue then goes on to say a car that is set up right can get down worse tracks.

Just because I said it was a Chassis issue Little Ed has to argue and say it is not. You still wrong. You still Stupid. And there is still a Chassis issue.

How do you get the car to go down worse tracks in worse conditions? BY SETTING UP CHASSIS CORRECTLY LIKE I SAID FROM THE START. There may or may not be a better tire choice but until you get chassis right and car going straight you will have problems. This is real simple even for Ediots. If one tire is wearing different than the other and car is pulling one direction then you have a chassis issue.

Fine display of stupidity there for all to see Little Ediot.

If you have nothing intelligent to say then just be quiet. And do not talk about your experience we have all seen Numedia points for years and you were first round runner up almost every week for 10 years. That is nothing to be proud of.