I have been running this for about 200 runs, been pretty good but seems to have gotten "tighter" for lack of a better description. 60s are a few hundreths worse and not consistent. New tires did nothing. Left front comes up about 3" higher than right. Rear seems very rigid, front is pretty loose. Cant find any binding on four link. If you have one of these or similar where are the 4-link bars?
It weighs 3300 with driver and is close to 1650 front and 1600-1650 rear with 150 lbs ballast.
406 glide, 4.86. running 6.50s.
Just looking for ideas, last weekend is coming up.
Thanks,
Jok

quote:

Originally posted by Toad1:
I have been running this for about 200 runs, been pretty good but seems to have gotten "tighter" for lack of a better description. 60s are a few hundreths worse and not consistent. New tires did nothing. Left front comes up about 3" higher than right. Rear seems very rigid, front is pretty loose. Cant find any binding on four link. If you have one of these or similar where are the 4-link bars?
It weighs 3300 with driver and is close to 1650 front and 1600-1650 rear with 150 lbs ballast.
406 glide, 4.86. running 6.50s.
Just looking for ideas, last weekend is coming up.
Thanks,
Jok

Best thing I did for mine was send the shocks to Competitive Suspension. I had my 4 link everywhere you could put it, and couldn’t get it to work. Shocks fixed it. Now this was a new build, so in your case I would try my best to make sure nothing has gone south, but it’s possible the shocks have done just that also. Front is just as important as the rear to keep a car working in my opinion.

I would start with a good slow motion video and try to see what chassis is doing. Is it hitting tire too hard? Chassis separating? Squatting?

When you find out exactly what it is doing then you can look closely at how the chassis is set up and determine what changes need to be made.

Which may be IC change, shock adjustment or something else.

But until you get any kind of information on exactly what it is doing simply a guess on how to fix it.

Does it had an anti roll bar? If it does is it mounted using bushings?

Hi Jok,
My 4 link is bottom bar down and IC about 52". Im below anti squat.
Competitive Suspension rear JRI shocks. Compression on 3 (which is middle for this shock), and rebound 8 from tight.
Front is afco BNCs with Moroso trick springs (the lightest they offer for S10 -- 47130's IIRC)
Compression 8 from tight, rebound is 5 from full loose.

The left front being higher is strange unless you dont have an ARB... Mine does.

My 97 is 58% on the nose and 3049 with me in it.
I went 6.20s at 108 at Eddyville ET Finals.

Also - running 3074S rear tire at 8.5 psi. Anything higher and truck would hook/spin when you least expected....

Clark

This message has been edited. Last edited by: CAD,

Using youtube's playback speed, you can slow this down. advance to about 57 seconds....

This was the week before ET finals at Onawa.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9ou48EWFaSM

I appreciate the input and questions. If I could figure out how to load a video I would but been so busy with Trailer Toad it is what it is.
I think the conclusion after talking to a couple full time chassis guys and shock guys... I have four bad shocks. 200 runs must have done them in. Truck was deadly through first 140 runs and we tried new tires, did nothing. Shock setting from mild to wild, not much changes.
One more weekend to try some stuff. By the way I unhooked the anti-roll, felt and looked like it just made the "dead", really limited movement and suspension for some reason.

Anyway,
Thanks for the input, appreciate it and have a great winter and if a Trailer Toad could make your towing better and protect your coach, give us a call or message me here.

Thanks,

Jok

I think I figured out how to drop a video. About 20 seconds too long but I scammed it from a friends phone. S10

What brand shock that all four went bad in 200 runs?

Converter is way too aggressive for bracket racing. When you described it dropping back 50 rpm's in the other thread I presumed you were going 6.0's at 3200-3300 lbs. My first thought was, I wonder what gear, because that's how a converter will act hopped up with gear, but you ain't hopped up now, you're going 6.50's, and it's way too violent, over-challenging the tire at the drop.

You need a BC-CRC XLS converter 630 hp, it'll roll off like a Cadillac at the drop, 60ft the same as it does now, over-challenging the tire.

quote:

Originally posted by Toad1:
I appreciate the input and questions. If I could figure out how to load a video I would but been so busy with Trailer Toad it is what it is.
I think the conclusion after talking to a couple full time chassis guys and shock guys... I have four bad shocks. 200 runs must have done them in. Truck was deadly through first 140 runs and we tried new tires, did nothing. Shock setting from mild to wild, not much changes.
One more weekend to try some stuff. By the way I unhooked the anti-roll, felt and looked like it just made the "dead", really limited movement and suspension for some reason.

Anyway,
Thanks for the input, appreciate it and have a great winter and if a Trailer Toad could make your towing better and protect your coach, give us a call or message me here.

Thanks,

Jok

Anti-roll will not affect shock travel other than keep it consistant on both sides and end of the car. I would put it back in, get some suspension travel in the rear as it seems there is no weight transfer and there must be a ton of anti squat in the truck or the springs are way to heavy. 52" out with a SBC going 6.50's seems WAY to far out there, I would think you should be in the low 40's, have a degree or so downhill and put the IC in that spot in the lower 40's. The weight is most likely all in the rear which means you should defnitly get the car to squat unless you have very little shock travel now. The front end comes up nice but should have the rear go down accordingly.

Just my .02 worth

Jok, this is 48" out, 4" above ground, anti-roll bar, Randy Mans shocks.

https://www.facebook.com/lonim...os/10156249120624150

lower bar 3 degrees downward slope.

quote:

Originally posted by The Bozman:

quote:

Originally posted by Toad1:
I appreciate the input and questions. If I could figure out how to load a video I would but been so busy with Trailer Toad it is what it is.
I think the conclusion after talking to a couple full time chassis guys and shock guys... I have four bad shocks. 200 runs must have done them in. Truck was deadly through first 140 runs and we tried new tires, did nothing. Shock setting from mild to wild, not much changes.
One more weekend to try some stuff. By the way I unhooked the anti-roll, felt and looked like it just made the "dead", really limited movement and suspension for some reason.

Anyway,
Thanks for the input, appreciate it and have a great winter and if a Trailer Toad could make your towing better and protect your coach, give us a call or message me here.

Thanks,

Jok

Anti-roll will not affect shock travel other than keep it consistant on both sides and end of the car. I would put it back in, get some suspension travel in the rear as it seems there is no weight transfer and there must be a ton of anti squat in the truck or the springs are way to heavy. 52" out with a SBC going 6.50's seems WAY to far out there, I would think you should be in the low 40's, have a degree or so downhill and put the IC in that spot in the lower 40's. The weight is most likely all in the rear which means you should defnitly get the car to squat unless you have very little shock travel now. The front end comes up nice but should have the rear go down accordingly.

Just my .02 worth

Agree with the anti roll bar, it needs it. Don't agree with the rear going into squat, not with this combo. It needs to separate at the hit and stay there until it settles down. Low HP combo's need the suspension to work harder to plant and keep the rear tires planted because the power of the motor can't do it. Also I'd bet this is front heavy unless there's a decent amount of weight in the rear. Wheel base may also be an issue, meaning to long. The launch is not smooth, front shocks are too loose. This combo should also like a good amount of front end travel with soft coil springs to keep the stored energy up as high as possible during the front end extension of the launch. If there is no weight in the rear I'd bet it would also like some too, near the rear centerline and above it. Rear spring rate should match the rear weight on the car, too stiff is not good here also.

No a big fan of IC's, ya they can tell you something but without all the info it;s not enough. Bottom bar 2 to 4 degrees down and the top bar 15 to 20 down. Tune with shocks and the top bar as needed. Shock travel info would be very useful and also help tune this deal much faster, but trail and error works too with video.

Thanks for the replies. THe season ended but basically I found a few things before storing it for winter.
The front springs are junk. inch shorter than when I put them in and the bottom is "bent" when they are removed. They were 250 lb. I put 300-lb on.
Rear springs are 125# and I got a set of 110# to try next season.
Shocks are QA1 double adjustable. Might look into a set of Competitive Suspension shocks but can't believe a 6.50 truck needs $1000 shocks.
Truck is about 1700 on front with driver and 1550-1600 rear and is carrying 150 lbs bolted to rear frame back by bumper.
Trying to find some scales locally but no luck, maybe this Spring.

Thanks guys, have a great winter and pray for our Country to get over this OBiden debacle.

Jok

quote:

Originally posted by Toad1:
Thanks for the replies. THe season ended but basically I found a few things before storing it for winter.
The front springs are junk. inch shorter than when I put them in and the bottom is "bent" when they are removed. They were 250 lb. I put 300-lb on.
Rear springs are 125# and I got a set of 110# to try next season.
Shocks are QA1 double adjustable. Might look into a set of Competitive Suspension shocks but can't believe a 6.50 truck needs $1000 shocks.
Truck is about 1700 on front with driver and 1550-1600 rear and is carrying 150 lbs bolted to rear frame back by bumper.
Trying to find some scales locally but no luck, maybe this Spring.

Thanks guys, have a great winter and pray for our Country to get over this OBiden debacle.

Jok

Ballast mounted low at the extreme ends of the car, isn't ideal if you looking for the car to pitch rotate. Ballast mounted low at the extreme ends, will make the car seem stiff.