TBM FTW....

I only have been to 1 race so far with my new MW brakes and
Ferodo pads...

We ran 1/th mile due to windy conditions.

Brake pedal felt great around pits and I tried to bed the pads in both at home and on jackstands


Car goes 138-139 in the 1/8th running S/C


Brakes just did not stop worth a sheet at first...

Probably better after 5 runs but without going 1/4 mile I don't know....

Usually first couple runs were not great with what I was using.....

Wilwood rotors and Hawk Pads....but after a couple they stopped very well from mid 170's.....

Good thing I got foot and hand brakes...

If I don't like the feel of the Ferodo's I will try those Carbone Lorraine pads......

Have you ever checked to see what kind of brake pressure you have at the caliper? I know when i changed mine from 600-700 to 1000 it made a huge difference in the way the car stopped. It also made my pads last at least 3 times longer.

To be honest I have not. Racetech with 7/8” masters on both foot and handbrake. Pedal ratio is reasonably good on foot and extremely high on hand lever as it should be. I know the pressure thing is always brought up as being very important but I never put a gauge on it

This past race I honestly forgot about it once we got racing. I won a couple rounds and the brake issues either disappeared or I just didn’t much pay attention.

Next time out us 1/4 mile and I’ll know better than how they are working.

If I had a gauge I’d check it....

quote:

Originally posted by T/D6591:
Have you ever checked to see what kind of brake pressure you have at the caliper? I know when i changed mine from 600-700 to 1000 it made a huge difference in the way the car stopped. It also made my pads last at least 3 times longer.

I know the brake mfg's know this is important. I guess I always thought the pads get the pressure my leg figures it needs to stop. If I'm not stopping fast enough, I put more leg in it and that provides more pressure. If I increase the ratio, I would put less leg into it to avoid locking up the brakes? I'm sure there is more to it that I am missing.

Bucky that was always my thinking also but i know after going to a smaller bore master cylinder and changing my pedal ratio with the same applied pressure to the pedal my caliper pressure changed 300 psi.

FERODO will never stop...

quote:

Originally posted by WHOMPWHOMP:
FERODO will never stop...

So far that felt true to me.

Every pad I had previously on Strange rotors or Wilwood rotors stopped fine after a couple runs.

I used Wilwood poly matrix E’s on Strange rotors and Hawk pads on Wilwood drilled rotors.

Stopped fine anywhere at 176-179 with both setups


Who has a part number for a pad other than Ferodo to fit Mark Williams calipers ?

Hawk or CL ....or ?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: SCDIV1,

Friend shared the same experience with the ferodo.
I think he is now using
Hawk B100-437M

So far I come up with

Hawk HB237 as the pad that will fit a MW caliper from some web detective work.....Pad shape looks right, gotta measure the Ferodo's….

2 Thicknesses...and made with all their compounds...

Black is aggressive....

I have to measure the Ferodo pads for thickness.... .480 or .625 and I'm pretty sure they were the thicker of those 2 sizes....

The MW brakes big plus is ZERO drag that's for sure....

I like to have options.....I go to a race and I'll change those pads in a heartbeat if those Ferodos don't feel right....

quote:

Originally posted by SCDIV1:
I only have been to 1 race so far with my new MW brakes and
Ferodo pads...

We ran 1/th mile due to windy conditions.

Brake pedal felt great around pits and I tried to bed the pads in both at home and on jackstands


Car goes 138-139 in the 1/8th running S/C


Brakes just did not stop worth a sheet at first...

Probably better after 5 runs but without going 1/4 mile I don't know....

Usually first couple runs were not great with what I was using.....

Wilwood rotors and Hawk Pads....but after a couple they stopped very well from mid 170's.....

Good thing I got foot and hand brakes...

If I don't like the feel of the Ferodo's I will try those Carbone Lorraine pads......

Rich

I have MW with the Ferodo pads they send with them. It stops very good! I go 195 plus in the quarter and don't use the chute ever. Also know others with similar setups wit no issues also. Did you do their break in procedure?

Al...

I ran the car at home on jacks in gear and at the track trying to drag those brakes some....

I also drove around the pits a lot before making any runs....using both sets of brakes as much as possible knowing it really doesn't do the same thing as out on the track...

It stopped real good rolling around the pits but felt like they were just not there out on the track first couple runs...


I know there probably is a specific bedding in procedure but did nothing different than what I generally do with new pads....


My good friend was the Northeast Service Rep for Prevost Motorcoach when they changed to disc brakes back in the early 90's....

Their buses would fail a NY DOT brake stopping distance test at first.....

They had a very specific brake bedding in procedure.....They barely passed even after doing that procedure....


Multiple stops from a various specific MPH"s......and then a period to cool....

I was less aware of the brakes by the time I made 5 runs...…..

Should have used them on that 5th run at about 560 feet out...!!! LOL

The Ferdo pads took a couple runs to break in but were fine after that.

Ferodo pads stop fine after one run has been my experience with both cars. Mine has ferodos and lamb cast iron rotors, my wife’s has MW everything. First hit with new pads is a little tough to stop (we usually use the chute) and they smell a lot but after that they’re fine. I do try to bed them on stands and driving around the pits. 7/8” MC on my car, 3/4” on hers.

Rich maybe it takes a few 1/8 hits to bed the brakes like one 1/4 hit does.

Thanks guys ….

Maple Grove in about 2 weeks and I'll find out...

Everytime I put new pads on my old brakes was usually issues on the first run or two....and yes you can always smell them.

The pad fit on my Wilwood stuff was poor.....One side worse than the other.....and drag was bad for a couple runs....

I usually check the rotors for heat and color....and dusting on the wheels....

As I said the MW fitup was perfect and ZERO drag.....


The funny part is my old car had Aerospace brakes and green gator pads and they worked flawless at 165-170 and 1875lbs...and those pads were pretty aggressive....

I ran SN #1 Strange Engineering Stainless Steel rear hat rotors. The scallop slots on mine where not cut through, just surface milled. I guess some can destroy most anything but these rotors worked flawlessly for me. I didn’t use the SE gold aggressive pads. I used the “cold” ones.