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DRR Trophy |
Anyone have any issues using a heli-coil in a crankshaft for a flexplate bolt? I have no idea how it happened, just got the motor back from freshening and dyno time and 1 of the bolt holes in the crank had the threads galled and messed up, tried a thread chaser with no luck, made a little jig to run a tap through and caught the good threads and it cleaned up and the bolt runs through it smooth now but it definitely feels looser than the others, I put loctite on the bolt and it feels like it's pulling the threads, I stopped at 60 ft.lbs., all the others tightened to 85 as normal, I'd hate to screw something up over a $5.00 bolt | ||
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DRR S/Pro |
I think it's one of those, what do you have to lose situations. I would have zero problems running a Heli-coil in it. If it worries you about screwing in the bolt you can use a short stud and Loc-tite it in. They make Heli-coils specifically for using a stud also. I realize that is a short stud but it's just something to consider. Usually a Heli-coil is about as strong as the original base metal. There is some pretty good info in this document. https://www.stanleyengineeredf...c-2000_rev11_web.pdf ____________________________ 2017 and 2018 Osage Casinos Tulsa Raceway Park No-Box Champion 2018 Div4 Goodguys Hammer award winner | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
I think I would feel better about using a heli-coil, than an under-tightened bolt with limited threads. Dan "Jim" Moore Much too young to feel this damn old!! | |||
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DRR Trophy |
If it's a chevy I think I would take it out 1/2-20. Meziere Tech. Make sure your water pump is on whenever you check your coolant level. | |||
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DRR Pro |
A properly installed Heli-Coil is as good or better than the original thread. "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Look at a time sert instead but I would do either over a screwed up threads | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
You can re-tap it to 12mm and just use a metric bolt in that hole . Dave F J B | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
This | |||
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DRR Pro |
it seems the helicoil would be the best choice you could still go bigger later if needed honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224 | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
I can't see drilling and tapping oversize making it a ba$tard when repairing it to stock size is a viable method? ____________________________ 2017 and 2018 Osage Casinos Tulsa Raceway Park No-Box Champion 2018 Div4 Goodguys Hammer award winner | |||
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DRR Pro |
thats what i was trying to say curtis lol honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224 | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
Great minds. LOL ____________________________ 2017 and 2018 Osage Casinos Tulsa Raceway Park No-Box Champion 2018 Div4 Goodguys Hammer award winner | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
Could just cover the threads in JB weld, torque it to 60lbs and send it. Bet its stays put until the next time you pull the engine. | |||
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DRR Pro |
Does it really need all the bolts? "Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular." Dave Cook N375 | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
If the crank is out of the engine and can be mounted in a mill or at the very least a good drill press then by all means repair with an insert of some sort....but if you're laying under the car in the middle of your driveway or the pits, a 12mm tap will follow the correct angle of a striped out 7/16 hole....it's a quick, fairly accurate repair that holds. You can always drill and tap for an insert next time you take the engine apart...or really "ba$tardize" it and drill and tap all the holes to 1/2"... . Dave F J B | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
x2 for the time-sert threaded insert. Amazon has them. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
sounds reasonable but that changes the balance when only changing one. Not to mention having to modify the holes on a replacement flexplate. Helicoil makes the most sense. Dave Koehler - Koehler Injection - http://www.koehlerinjection.com Fuel Injection - Nitrous Charger - Nitrous Master Software - Balancing 99% of fuel injection problems are electric. | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
85 foot lbs?? California Screaming! Raceless in California! | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
Thats what ARP recommends with their 7/16 flexplate bolts. I would use ARP on the face of the bolts and red loctite on the threads. Anytime I removed the flexplate I would install new bolts, they are pretty inexpensive to keep a couple of sets in the trailer As far as 1/2 inch bolts go and *******izing the crank, there is a bunch of blown BBC out there with 1/2 20 bolts, its is an option when ordering a Bryant or Winberg billet crank. I never had any problem but have seen the 7/16 bolts shear off. Yea I know the OPs car isnt blown, just agreeing it is a viable option since you will still have to drill it out to put in a Helicoil | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
. Thanks Steve California Screaming! Raceless in California! | |||
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