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Flexplate bolt heli-coil?
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DRR Trophy
Picture of Doug
posted
Anyone have any issues using a heli-coil in a crankshaft for a flexplate bolt? I have no idea how it happened, just got the motor back from freshening and dyno time and 1 of the bolt holes in the crank had the threads galled and messed up, tried a thread chaser with no luck, made a little jig to run a tap through and caught the good threads and it cleaned up and the bolt runs through it smooth now but it definitely feels looser than the others, I put loctite on the bolt and it feels like it's pulling the threads, I stopped at 60 ft.lbs., all the others tightened to 85 as normal, I'd hate to screw something up over a $5.00 bolt
 
Posts: 20 | Location: Fredonia | Registered: April 03, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of CURTIS REED
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I think it's one of those, what do you have to lose situations.

I would have zero problems running a Heli-coil in it. If it worries you about screwing in the bolt you can use a short stud and Loc-tite it in. They make Heli-coils specifically for using a stud also. I realize that is a short stud but it's just something to consider. Usually a Heli-coil is about as strong as the original base metal. There is some pretty good info in this document.

https://www.stanleyengineeredf...c-2000_rev11_web.pdf



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Posts: 2959 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of FootbrakeJim
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I think I would feel better about using a heli-coil, than an under-tightened bolt with limited threads.


Dan "Jim" Moore
Much too young to feel this damn old!!
 
Posts: 1043 | Location: Farmersville, TX  | Registered: December 05, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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If it's a chevy I think I would take it out 1/2-20.


Meziere Tech.
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Posts: 241 | Location: Escondido | Registered: July 01, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Goob
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A properly installed Heli-Coil is as good or better than the original thread.


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Dave Cook
N375
 
Posts: 1677 | Location: Indy | Registered: November 21, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Look at a time sert instead but I would do either over a screwed up threads
 
Posts: 390 | Location: Natick MA | Registered: November 15, 2017Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
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You can re-tap it to 12mm and just use a metric bolt in that hole


.
Dave



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Posts: 4476 | Location: Earth | Registered: February 08, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR S/Pro
Picture of Big Steve
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quote:
Originally posted by 1leg:
If it's a chevy I think I would take it out 1/2-20.


This
 
Posts: 2436 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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it seems the helicoil would be the best choice you could still go bigger later if needed


honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense
1.036, 6.16@ 224

 
Posts: 1416 | Location: texas | Registered: February 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of CURTIS REED
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I can't see drilling and tapping oversize making it a ba$tard when repairing it to stock size is a viable method?



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Posts: 2959 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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thats what i was trying to say curtis lol


honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense
1.036, 6.16@ 224

 
Posts: 1416 | Location: texas | Registered: February 17, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of CURTIS REED
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quote:
Originally posted by rusty:
thats what i was trying to say curtis lol


Great minds. LOL



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Posts: 2959 | Location: KIEFER, OK. | Registered: August 17, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Could just cover the threads in JB weld, torque it to 60lbs and send it. Bet its stays put until the next time you pull the engine.
 
Posts: 2436 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Goob
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quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve:
Could just cover the threads in JB weld, torque it to 60lbs and send it. Bet its stays put until the next time you pull the engine.


Laughing Hard

Does it really need all the bolts? Confused


"Despite the high cost of living, it remains popular."
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N375
 
Posts: 1677 | Location: Indy | Registered: November 21, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Top Comp
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quote:
Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
I can't see drilling and tapping oversize making it a ba$tard when repairing it to stock size is a viable method?


If the crank is out of the engine and can be mounted in a mill or at the very least a good drill press then by all means repair with an insert of some sort....but if you're laying under the car in the middle of your driveway or the pits, a 12mm tap will follow the correct angle of a striped out 7/16 hole....it's a quick, fairly accurate repair that holds. You can always drill and tap for an insert next time you take the engine apart...or really "ba$tardize" it and drill and tap all the holes to 1/2"...


.
Dave



F J B

 
Posts: 4476 | Location: Earth | Registered: February 08, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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x2 for the time-sert threaded insert. Amazon has them.
 
Posts: 384 | Location: Pride, La | Registered: April 18, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Dave Koehler
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quote:
Originally posted by 1leg:
If it's a chevy I think I would take it out 1/2-20.

sounds reasonable but that changes the balance when only changing one.
Not to mention having to modify the holes on a replacement flexplate.
Helicoil makes the most sense.


Dave Koehler - Koehler Injection - http://www.koehlerinjection.com
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Posts: 353 | Location: Urbana, IL 61802 | Registered: December 03, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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85 foot lbs??


Raceless in California!
 
Posts: 4520 | Location: Vacaville  | Registered: January 07, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Big Steve
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quote:
Originally posted by BP758:
85 foot lbs??


Thats what ARP recommends with their 7/16 flexplate bolts. I would use ARP on the face of the bolts and red loctite on the threads. Anytime I removed the flexplate I would install new bolts, they are pretty inexpensive to keep a couple of sets in the trailer

As far as 1/2 inch bolts go and *******izing the crank, there is a bunch of blown BBC out there with 1/2 20 bolts, its is an option when ordering a Bryant or Winberg billet crank. I never had any problem but have seen the 7/16 bolts shear off.
Yea I know the OPs car isnt blown, just agreeing it is a viable option since you will still have to drill it out to put in a Helicoil
 
Posts: 2436 | Location: Moving back to the door side | Registered: April 30, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by Big Steve:
quote:
Originally posted by BP758:
85 foot lbs??


Thats what ARP recommends with their 7/16 flexplate bolts. I would use ARP on the face of the bolts and red loctite on the threads. Anytime I removed the flexplate I would install new bolts, they are pretty inexpensive to keep a couple of sets in the trailer

As far as 1/2 inch bolts go and *******izing the crank, there is a bunch of blown BBC out there with 1/2 20 bolts, its is an option when ordering a Bryant or Winberg billet crank. I never had any problem but have seen the 7/16 bolts shear off.
Yea I know the OPs car isnt blown, just agreeing it is a viable option since you will still have to drill it out to put in a Helicoil
.


Thanks Steve


Raceless in California!
 
Posts: 4520 | Location: Vacaville  | Registered: January 07, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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