Short version, I didn't get the pump to seat in the converter before install. Ground minor grooves in the forks. Can I just pull the front cover off, replace the fingers, clean it up good, and start over?
Long version; LS motor to 'glide trans, needed snout extension, which creates a space between flexplate and converter, so I spacered the flexplate to fix that. Swore I had the converter seated, F me!

i dont know what forks your talking about but my armchair diagnosis is your pump is ruined

I also don't know what forks or fingers are in a PG or a converter. If you didn't seat the converter and bolted everything up you would have forced the converter snout into the front pump gear. At the least you need to pull the transmission and pull the front pump and disassemble it.

I would be concerned about the metal inside the trans that was ground off the pump drive pieces also.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
I would be concerned about the metal inside the trans that was ground off the pump drive pieces also.

My concern also. Not sure if there's any other internal bushings I need to worry about.

For those who don't know what I'm referring to, if you look at a torque converter, the tubular part that slides into the front of the trans has a couple notches in it. Inside the front of the trans are a couple of fingers or forks that are supposed to slide into those notches. That is what spins the pump.

Are the grooves on the converter or the pump internally. When putting on the converter you should get two distinct clunks - it is hard to get it on sometimes and you have to keep spinning and pushing and pulling. Eventually it should seat.

If the grooves are on the converter you might get away with it....but metal inside could cause a problem.

Id probably see if it will seat properly. And give it a try. When you have it together there should be a ~3/8 gap betweeen the converter and flexplate. Then converter should be pulled out of trans the 3/8" to fit up to flexplate. It should never be shimmed to make up the difference or you will screw up motor bearings and or trans. Read out proper fitment and you will see what I am talking about.

If everything fits and the ears still turn the pump you should be fine (metal is only concern but if you run it a little and replace fluid and filter most of it will likely be removed. if it wasn't seated deep enough I have no idea how you got the converter between flex plate and trans bolted up unless it was all jammed together real tight (not good).

Once you get it figured out you will never do it again - how we learn. Had a buddy do similar and he shimmed everything tight thinking he needed to make up the 3/8 gap - took out trans and motor bearings all in first few runs. Then argued with us that was not the reason. Told him to get everything fixed and put it all back the same way and on the 3rd time he might want to try my method. LOL. He listened then.

Pictures or you are wasting time. I am a builder by trade, and i have never seen the pump AND converter NOT be hurt in your situation

quote:

Id probably see if it will seat properly. And give it a try. When you have it together there should be a ~3/8 gap betweeen the converter and flexplate. Then converter should be pulled out of trans the 3/8" to fit up to flexplate. It should never be shimmed to make up the difference or you will screw up motor bearings and or trans. Read out proper fitment and you will see what I am talking about.

3/8" sounds like way too much. If I'm putting a combination together for the first time, I'll bring two drill bits under the car with me. 1/8" and 3/16". The 1/8" bit must pass between the flexplate and converter, and the 3/16" bit must not fit. Shim as needed until that is the case.

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:

When you have it together there should be a ~3/8 gap betweeen the converter and flexplate. Then converter should be pulled out of trans the 3/8" to fit up to flexplate.

Ski, how would you have any engagement with that math?

quote:

Originally posted by truckman:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:
I would be concerned about the metal inside the trans that was ground off the pump drive pieces also.

My concern also. Not sure if there's any other internal bushings I need to worry about.

For those who don't know what I'm referring to, if you look at a torque converter, the tubular part that slides into the front of the trans has a couple notches in it. Inside the front of the trans are a couple of fingers or forks that are supposed to slide into those notches. That is what spins the pump.

The part that slides into the front pump is the snout of the converter and it has the 2 slots that engage the front pump gear. The gear inside the front pump has tangs that the converter snout engage.
How screwed you are? Can't tell from here but it sound like you spun or started the motor so you need to inspect the converter and the transmission. I'd be concerned that you destroyed the front pump assembly and put ground metal in the transmission. It's only time and money, but look at what you learned.

To update with new to me info, the forks or fingers I referred to are actually tabs on the inside of the pump gear. I watched a youtube video on rebuilding 'glides and understand much better what I did wrong.

I am pulling the pump to inspect it today. Hopefully I didn't hurt it too bad. I think I'm OK because I was able to turn the converter before bolting it to the flex.

As for clearances, when I initially put it all together, I had about 3/16" between the flexplate and converter. I blamed it on the snout extension which is needed to center the converter when putting an older non-lockup converter in a LS motor. I put flatwashers in between the converter and flex to take up the space. I then decided I didn't like that, so I put a spacer between the crank and flex. That seemed to work better, and I put a spacer between the trans and block to allow the converter to pull forward a little.

After checking and/or repairing damage, I will eliminate the trans to block spacer, verify that converter is fully seated, (about 15/16" inside of trans face to bolt tab) leave crank to flex spacer, and if all is well, the converter should pull forward onto the flexplate about 1/8".

Thank you for your assistance.

Sonnax makes (2) gears sets if needed. One standard and one oversize. Jegs has the listing and sizes if needed.

https://www.jegs.com/p/Sonnax/...lts/3354583/10002/-1

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:

When you have it together there should be a ~3/8 gap betweeen the converter and flexplate. Then converter should be pulled out of trans the 3/8" to fit up to flexplate.

Ski, how would you have any engagement with that math?

hahaha, my bad with the 3/8 vs 3/16 - hadnt had my morning coffee

Thank you.
So, here's the damage.
https://imgur.com/a/20RavhT

I hope that worked. It seems I need a new pump, and bushing. Is the cover worn too much?

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:

When you have it together there should be a ~3/8 gap betweeen the converter and flexplate. Then converter should be pulled out of trans the 3/8" to fit up to flexplate.

Ski, how would you have any engagement with that math?

hahaha, my bad with the 3/8 vs 3/16 - hadnt had my morning coffee

Been there.