Do you guys rebuild your carbs. Have APD 1150 on alcohol.

Every winter I take it apart clean it real good, spray it down with WD40 and put it back together. Never an issue - but curious as to what is considered pushing it.

Mine is 3 years old.

Never an issue but just yesterday, you said this

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:
My APD sticks on high idle as well. Normally the back doesnt return. I can tap it sometimes and get it back down, other times it does not.

I keep it lubed and cleaned which seems to help, but it also collects dust and eventually starts again. Looking at it this weekend I might be able to put light spring return on it. But for the $$ you shouldn't have to.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
Never an issue but just yesterday, you said this

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:
My APD sticks on high idle as well. Normally the back doesnt return. I can tap it sometimes and get it back down, other times it does not.

I keep it lubed and cleaned which seems to help, but it also collects dust and eventually starts again. Looking at it this weekend I might be able to put light spring return on it. But for the $$ you shouldn't have to.

I asked about a rebuild. Referring to "internal" items - needles, seats, floats, gaskets, etc. And as mentioned I do not have an issue with the performance.

Both the mentioned items have to do with the high idle discussion and its done that since month one of use and pertain to external factors.

I "rebuild" my carbs every off season. That said, APD has a reputation for sending carbs out that are not bolt on and go racing.

Thanks. I agree but have never seen any performance issue - car repeats very well and is repeatable/predictable.

You on gas or alky.

any carb from one of the many race carb builders will do the same, there is no magic carb despite marketing claims that will have you running a tenth quicker no mind tenths. At the end of the day, whether it's a carb, trans, converter or engine, it's all about customer service AFTER the sale.

quote:

Originally posted by 1320racer:
any carb from one of the many race carb builders will do the same, there is no magic carb despite marketing claims that will have you running a tenth quicker no mind tenths. At the end of the day, whether it's a carb, trans, converter or engine, it's all about customer service AFTER the sale.

everybody knows that the only way such et gains are made is with the R-M shear spacer.

ep-you asked for that 1290

I did

When I was running an alcohol carb I usually replaced the floats and booster pump diaphragm every year and idle O-ring gaskets. The rest of the stuff as needed.

All of the idle bleeds need to be blown out with carb cleaner at least once a month and I usually blow them out more than that.

Carb will last much longer if you make sure the return spring and throttle linkage do not put much stress on the shaft. Put return spring inline with throttle on other side so it is pulling opposite direction. Do not put return spring and throttle on same side so they are both pulling back as it is opened, that will wear out the shaft and cause binding. Hope I explained that right.
Carb is a simple animal, just keep clean and replace the items I consider normal wear and tear Floats and booster pump diaphragm. Even the stainless steel Needle and Seats last a long time just keep clean.

Floats and gaskets every winter and that’s about it.

I carry extra needle and seats but haven’t needed them. Carb is 10-15 years old.

quote:

Originally posted by Lenny5160:
Floats and gaskets every winter and that’s about it.

I carry extra needle and seats but haven’t needed them. Carb is 10-15 years old.

Gas carbs using the Viton Needles and seats will need to be replaced more often. The stainless we use on alcohol last a very long time. Like you I keep spares in case.

not true. In 30 years drag racing, I have never had a N/S fail in any carb.

Who still uses stainless steel? BLP nail head titanium .164" for the win.