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DRR S/Pro![]() |
So Merry Christmas to me. Got my engine put back in the car and last thing to do was put the starter back in and starter bolt threads pulled out when I tighten them. This is an aluminum block. Found a Timesert starter bolt repair kit online and ordered it. Anyone have any tips trying to do this with the engine in the car? Midplate to the back, frame rail on one side and oil pan on the other so space for a drill is limited. Sucks because 2 days ago the engine was on the stand Any help from someone who has done this would be appreciated. | ||
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DRR Top Comp |
Obviously you need to buy a long drill bit or an extension. I would buy the long bit. There is a long tap extension and I’m sure you’ll probably need that. I had a stripped valve cover hole and I used a helicoil since I already have them . I had to cut the ears off the driver tool so it would clear. I don’t know what the Timesert tool looks like. Good luck Clowns to the left of me, Jokers to the right. Here I am....... | |||
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DRR S/Pro![]() |
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DRR Pro |
Just drill STRAIGHT…. | |||
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DRR Pro![]() |
I guess it would depend on how much room you have to fit the tool. I've done inserts in tight quarters like that before. What I did was manually drill it out using a pair of vice grips and hand pressure. Sucks, can only turn drill bit, tap, and tool a little at a time, but it works.... Other option is to unbolt the trans/converter and see if you can slide the engine forward a little to gain more room.... Mark Goulette Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream Racing dragster www.livinthedreamracing.com "Speed kills but it's better than going slow!" Authorized Amsoil Retailer | |||
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DRR Top Comp |
A quick fix I did in the pits a few years ago was tap to hole to m12 and use a metric (m12) bolt. This is when I was running Comp Elim so I knew the engine would be back on the stand after the race to do a permanent repair. . Dave F J B | |||
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DRR Pro![]() |
I prefer Keenserts but the Timeserts will work for you. You can take a piece of square stock and drill two holes in it. One close to the bolts diameter and the other close to your drill diameter. Bolt it to the starter pad as a guide to drill straight. Then you can open it up to use the same way as a tap guide. Easy peasy. ____________________________ 2017 and 2018 Osage Casinos Tulsa Raceway Park No-Box Champion 2018 Div4 Goodguys Hammer award winner | |||
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DRR Elite![]() |
Did you try removing the old insert and putting in new double or triple deep with longer bolt before making a larger hole and in the field upside down with trans, midplate and chassis in the way? 2005 2000lb 4 link dragster home brew 582 BBC Dart 355 1.058 2.98 4.629@149 6.094 7.310@185 | |||
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DRR S/Pro![]() |
\ There is no old insert, block itself is threaded | |||
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DRR S/Pro![]() |
I actually ordered 3 different Keensert kits from Zoro a few weeks back, they are on backorder right now. It has been the off season of stripped out aluminum threads, converter bolts were loose and damaged the threads in the converter cover, I sent it back to Abruzzi for repair, he used Keenserts. When torquing my heads the inner bolt threads pulled out of the head and had to take the head back off and have Reher Morrison fix it, it is really shallow and goes into the intake port at a angle they used a timesert. Now this I like the idea of the square stock pre drilled to make a guide. Thank you | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
pull the engine.... J.R. Baxter ""Fathom the hypocrisy of a Government that requires every citizen to prove they are insured ..but not everyone must prove they are a citizen." 2024 Miller Rolla Competition Engines ProCharger Hoosier Tires Abruzzi | |||
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DRR Elite |
Agree | |||
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DRR S/Pro![]() |
This 272" Spitzer 540 Chevy The Blower Shop XR1 FTI XPM Series Converter FTI Level 6 Powerglide 3.69@199 .916 60' 2017 Bradenton Heads Up Madness Open Outlaw Champ 2018 PDRA T/D #5 2019 PDRA T/D #2 2020 Retired From T/D Competition.... 2020 Bradenton NMCA Hemi Shootout Winner 2021 getting back into bracket racing with a Gen3 Hemi powered 87 Cutlass. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Goodson shop supply sells a drill jig to guide your drill bit when drilling out broken bolts or stripped threads. It’s a group of three plates that have various holes drilled into them. Plates can be flipped and turned as needed. That allows you to bolt the plate down to two starter bolt holes and drill the third. Plate holes are sized for a smaller center drill then a larger drill to size. That may help you get the hole drilled straight. I bought one years ago and am glad I did | |||
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DRR S/Pro![]() |
BB Chevs often pulled the head bolt threads in the holes at the dowels. I used old main caps as a drill guide and tap guide and did it in the car a number of times I would make some sort of guide as has been described and it should be doable Aluminum is way easier to drill and tap Use some lube or WD 40 A long helicoil would work fine Don’t try to use 2 and if installed right and use anti-seize on the starter bolt everytime you install it, should work I’d at least try it before I pulled the engine just to fix one hole ! | |||
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DRR Trophy |
Before going through all that can you use studs ang I would take old starter to use as a drill guide | |||
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DRR S/Pro![]() |
Perfect idea. Remove starter mounting block from a Hitachi style starter Bolt to good hole. Drill existing stripped hole deeper and tap Install a long stud. You could tap hole fine thread for a little better holding strength Next time engine is out and apart fix hole in a Bridgeport with a solid insert | |||
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DRR Pro![]() |
that looks like a good fix honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224 | |||
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DRR S/Pro![]() |
I do have an old Hitachi stater so that is a great idea to you as a guide. I thought about putting in studs a couple of years ago to prevent this from happening but I could not get the starter on with studs because of the oil pan being in the way preventing the starter from going straight up | |||
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DRR S/Pro![]() |
Put the stud in the starter loose and the stud already in the starter but not in the block. No longer than necessary to get a nut and washer on it. Maybe enough room to slide it over into position and get the stud threaded into block while it’s already loose in the starter Might work. Can’t sleep and my flat rate mind wheels are always turning....lol | |||
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