I looked at the rear of my door car trying to figure out a good way to limit rear suspension travel while towing. I have straps that go around the diff housing to the floor to keep the back of the car from moving but haven’t figured out how to easily limit the rear suspension travel.
Then I got to wondering about doing this. What if I turned the DA rear shock adjustments to full tight? Would this be a good or bad idea to limit travel instead of tying down suspension somehow? The idea being to limit shock wear while towing.
Posts: 2287 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009
Weld / fab something on each frame rail near each shock you can hook a 3 or 4" wide ratchet strap, that you then can ratchet down once the front is hooked. That's how I do my Nova. The clickers are expensive and their settings too key an ingredient to abuse like that. Plus the damper will still cycle displacing oil, run warmer long haul w/stiff clicker setting. You don't wanna do it like that sir. Crank it down with a 7,000 lb ratchet strap. Pre-load the spring, it won't cycle much at all.
Mark, you're wasting your time. I've been trailing my race cars for 20 years, tied down from the chassis. I have never tied my cars to limit rear suspension travel while towing, I want my suspension working going down the road in my trailer.
Assume your reason for wanting to do this is because you believe the shocks are heating up going down the road and you're afraid you'll wear them out. A temp gun pointed at your race car's shock body before driving down the road and again when you pit, quickly dispels that myth, rumor and hearsay.
Also, I have never wore out any shock on my cars in 30 years, never had a shock leak oil, never had a shock loose it's charge. Further the shocks on my Firebird are 16 years old, originally installed when it was built in 2004, same as the shocks on my dragster, now 6 years old.
Originally posted by stk 758 BP!: My two cents... If you have expensive shocks protect your investment. Trailers are shock killers no matter who’s trailer. The bladders front and rear are a great choice.
Shocks wear out, I just put Billsteins on my Duramax 70,000 miles. If I could put 70,000 miles on them never cycling, they'd be like new at 70,000 miles!
How I knew it needed new dampers was a short trip 70 mph you couldn't feel the springs, a longer trip 70 mph you could (bouncy).
That tells me when they warmed up, they lost tolerance - main body expanded. Common sense.
Pro Stock teams take em off towing.
We're digressing by confusing ones experience with tech, when ones experience is relative ones interpretation.
says the internet forum clown that ain't won anything anywhere except his local duck pond over a decade ago and who hasn't raced in years because he was so traumatized over one round lost when he hit the timing block.