This makes the 3rd one in a couple years. Shorty dragster trans, JW case. You know when it does it because its slow going into reverse. Any ideas what might be causing that?

I've never seen that but from what I understand it's caused by vibration. Sonnax sells kit to fix this I think. I've heard about it but never seen it (experience) YET*.

Ring gear stabilizer, I think they call it.

I'm running a stock ring in mine, 275 lb line pressure....zero issues with it...you've got something more going on, better look a little deeper....

Sonnax Ring Gear Stabilizer Kit #28510-S3 will help prevent Pressure plate breakage on your Glide.

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Could that be an issue with the case? Or maybe the planetaries are out of balance? It has BTE 1.80 straight cuts that are almost 10 years old.

Take a look at the bronze thrust washer in those planets. what does it look like?. Are these all OE plates?. That plate show any signs of contact from the ring gear and the pressure plate. Sonnax makes a shim for it.

I'm running an older JW case as well. I do have the case saver inserts in it, but I doubt it's a case problem...how beat up are the lugs? What do the bushings look like in the gearset? Output bearing/bushing slop? Bushing for input shaft that's in the gearset? Drum bushings?

I'll ask my guy on how it looked in those places. It had 2 seasons on it and we made a bunch of laps Saturday night being double in 2 races, trans never got over 185 though then Sunday 2nd round it went wide open when it tried to leave. Clutches burnt up and band smoked. Gave the trans to my buddy and he went through it. He put another drum in it that he had, new band, new clutches.

I change the filter often, that one had less than 50 passes. going to try the high flow fti ones

At any given time have you put a gauge on the servo and checked pressures?

No I haven't

Here is a little video explaining pin bias issues from Sonnax

I would advise after the trans is completed to perform a pressure check at the servo. Need a 0-300 gauge. Oil pressure gauge.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cx01xQ8PuuA

I found mine broke in about 3 places this past winter when i freshened mine. No noticeable or ill effects other than the top clutch was getting scuffed. I attributed it to a 40-50 year old part and put a aftermarket steel one in it. The guys at TSR said they have seen a few of them like that over the years. The original seemed like a cast steel design very porous.

quote:

Originally posted by 391T:
I'll ask my guy on how it looked in those places. It had 2 seasons on it and we made a bunch of laps Saturday night being double in 2 races, trans never got over 185 though then Sunday 2nd round it went wide open when it tried to leave. Clutches burnt up and band smoked. Gave the trans to my buddy and he went through it. He put another drum in it that he had, new band, new clutches.

Ya'll need to work on this thing a bit. It doesn't look like it was all that happy ever. Like the band has been on in high, and high on in low. You'll get better service life out of this and better performance, if you work with it a bit, from the looks of it.

If you give info on power, a suggestion on the correct pressure would be a good start. It could just be it has more pressure than it needs. Or it could be you're running a bunch of power I suppose, but I did a couple PG's for a guy with two 4.70's 4.80 Ray Miller dragsters his daughters drive in 2013, he hasn't had to do anything with either of the transmissions. Maybe I need loosen up my transmission durability program a little. It's not only heat that'll kill em.

When you change the filter frequently", are you noticing a lot of dust in the pan, filter dark?

Not a lot of power 438 sbf going 5.0s. Yeah a lot of stuff in the pan and filter looked bad that's why I have been changing it more. I needed to go through it over the winter and the guy I use to freshen them up was in the next state so just didn't. Yeah I need to work with it for sure it definitely has some issues. I'll try to find a pressure gauge to test it. Put a looser converter from Greg Slack in it last year and it picked up a tenth and 4-5 mph.

Anything over 215psi is too much. I'll bet it's way above that now.

Straighten that out and maybe a guided pin servo, it might act like champ. But I'll bet it's high now. You want it vented well too and a brass high flow pickup / filter. Follow the ottm link below to the picture galley to mark the dipstick for perfect fill. Check in park, engine running.

Becoming quite common with elevated line pressures. We just use billet pressure plates and the problem goes away. The list of why it could happen is too long but reality is I see it all the time.


Hutch

I have never broken one but what I want to know is what is the difference between the pressure plate that Sonnax sells thru Summit for $80 and the pressure plate that FTI bubble wraps and sells thru Summit for $35 ?? Thats a huge difference

Broke the pressure plate again 2 weeks ago. Put in an aftermarket reverse pressure plate from TSI and changed valve body from hipster to a new billet bte. Added a pressure gauge too, 200-205 idling in low gear 230s on the brake and then 240-245 at the end of the run. I guess we'll see how long this one lasts...

quote:

Originally posted by 391T:
Broke the pressure plate again 2 weeks ago. Put in an aftermarket reverse pressure plate from TSI and changed valve body from hipster to a new billet bte. Added a pressure gauge too, 200-205 idling in low gear 230s on the brake and then 240-245 at the end of the run. I guess we'll see how long this one lasts...

Lookin good !! What diameter tire and gear?