Trying to install a new set of M/T 32x14.5x15 on weld 15x14 magnum 2.0 wheels, the inner beads both popped easily but I can’t get the outer to pop, only went to about 38 psi so far. Lubed with plenty of dawn and water, anything else I should try or more pressure?
Old tires are the same as the new ones, but we didn’t mount them so not sure what method was used.This message has been edited. Last edited by: Packmule,
May 13, 2019, 07:31 PM
jenavet
you really need a good bead paste or lube,not sure dawn is the best choice,and ive gone to 50-60psi on them with no issues.we mount 10-15 sets a week
May 14, 2019, 09:38 AM
TD3550
I have been to 50 Psi on my rear magnums. Quick shot of WD and up they come.Have you ever noticed the sharp edge on the outside.Mine are lightly sanded down.
May 14, 2019, 10:18 AM
Eman
Cleaning the wheel if they are used will make it easier. Any old rubber or burrs make it harder to seat.
May 14, 2019, 10:37 AM
Canted Valve
Take a walk on the wild side. Just have plenty of beer for everybody.
Illegitimi non carborundum
May 14, 2019, 10:52 AM
Packmule
wheels are very clean around the inside bead, I will try something different than dawn and water. Just looking at them they look seated and pressed up against the lip of the rim but if you let the air out and kneel on them they will pop off.
I tried that also 3 times This message has been edited. Last edited by: Packmule,
May 15, 2019, 03:09 PM
Brktracer
WD-40 and a locking air chuck. Don't want to be standing beside it - just in case. Regulate the air down at the compressor and put the wheel on the other side of the shop, ideally behind some stuff - just in case.
I've had to go to 60 on some front runners before.
Matt Ward
May 15, 2019, 08:54 PM
Bucky
will wd40 contribute to them moving on the rim if you don't screw them?
Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
May 15, 2019, 10:09 PM
rusty
please use bead lube any oil and oxygen is a very bad combination
honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224
May 16, 2019, 07:57 AM
RyanNorton1
quote:
Originally posted by rusty: please use bead lube any oil and oxygen is a very bad combination
Pure oxygen and oil is a bad combination, but oil and air?
Id be more worried about WD40 breaking down the tire rubber in bead seat area. We use it on our jr dragster slicks, boy does it make a mess but the tires are sticky!
May 16, 2019, 08:02 AM
Packmule
I’m going to try it again today, I have a fifty ft hose with a clip on chuck and regulator with quick connections that plugs into a air outlet and then the extension hose into it. Just a bit frustrating That this of all things is being so difficult.
May 16, 2019, 11:01 AM
rusty
quote:
Pure oxygen and oil is a bad combination, but oil and air?
20.9%oxygen ,i havent had an issue yet either when i have done it .but from training i know its a bad idea and the thr reason those type oils are not used by tire people. just info, moving on.
honesty is the best policy,insanity is a better deffense 1.036, 6.16@ 224
May 21, 2019, 04:03 PM
sc4087
quote:
Originally posted by Brktracer: WD-40 and a locking air chuck. Don't want to be standing beside it - just in case. Regulate the air down at the compressor and put the wheel on the other side of the shop, ideally behind some stuff - just in case.
LOL !!!!
Mike Greene
May 22, 2019, 04:51 AM
Rookieman
I used to have a very hard time getting a race slick to take air until I came up with this method.All you have to do is after you get the slick mounted on the wheel put it back on the car temporarily.I usually spray WD-40 around the beads to make it easier.You also need to drop the car back down to the floor until the slick is positioned right over the wheel and then push the slick against the wheel on the inside as far as possible. After all this you need to get a bead seater like they use on big trucks and put in about 90 to 100 pounds of air. Release this air into the outer side of the slick and it inflates almost the first time every time. Don't forget before you release the air from the bead setter don't forget to put your air hose on the valve with the valve core removed.
May 22, 2019, 05:22 AM
Bucky
quote:
Originally posted by Rookieman: I used to have a very hard time getting a race slick to take air until I came up with this method.All you have to do is after you get the slick mounted on the wheel put it back on the car temporarily.I usually spray WD-40 around the beads to make it easier.You also need to drop the car back down to the floor until the slick is positioned right over the wheel and then push the slick against the wheel on the inside as far as possible. After all this you need to get a bead seater like they use on big trucks and put in about 90 to 100 pounds of air. Release this air into the outer side of the slick and it inflates almost the first time every time. Don't forget before you release the air from the bead setter don't forget to put your air hose on the valve with the valve core removed.
What happens to that wd40? If you don't screw the tire, is it likely to slip?
Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
May 22, 2019, 05:59 AM
Rookieman
The WD-40 has never been a problem for me but I only run from 4.90's to low 5.oo's. I don't think it would hurt anyone because WD-40 dries up completely after a while. Besides that you don't really have to use WD-40 it will seal up fine with-out it.
May 22, 2019, 11:02 PM
Packmule
I’m not having issues with the tires taking air, that’s the simple part, I can’t seem to get the bead on the outer rim to seat properly. The bead looks seated but if you let all the air back out you can stand on the tire and push the bead back off the rim. I had some other stuff going on so haven’t got a chance try again but plan on doing so tomorrow, I made a long hose with a clip on chuck so I can safely fill them from about 50 ft away.
