74 vega, 2x3, 4-link, a-arm front. SBC. 14x32. Upper 5.90’s in 1/8. Where would be a good IC? Its way up and out now, car has more wheelie than we’d like. We onky ran it once and it also drove right a little but found that issue already. Wanna ditch the wheelie bars

Scott,

The wheelie issue will require a balancing of four-link, shock settings, and ballast. The short wheelbase cars are naturally wheelie prone and that is OK, just needs control.

I suggest the four-link be set at about half the wheelbase and about 4" above ground. Also, shoot for a setting that will have the lower bar about 2 degrees down and the upper bar 12 - 15 degrees down.

A quality, double adjustable shock on all corners is a good thing.

Ballast is your friend, 10 - 15 pounds as far forward as possible can make a big difference.

I know nothing about four links, that said i know of a couple people that their stuff is deadly with same car as you. They both removed 1:80 straight cuts and installed 1:69 straight cut planetary and instantly deadly and drivable.

Posey has a valid point

quote:

Originally posted by Larry Woodfin:
Posey has a valid point

That's a band aid fix. If that's your cup of tea go for it! What you stated about is a good start. Just forget the IC BS. The bar angles are what matters most, especially since we don't know the four link fabrication dimensions!

I woudl say probably somewhere in the 48-50 out and about 3.5-4" up. put the top bar as close to the housing as you can (the ****her apart is more violent). The higher it is the more lift it provides quicker. Tightening up front shocks can help the rate of travel as well. I went 1.18 60' with no wheelie bars on a 2800lb car with a 4 link. So it is very doable. That was with a 4.30 gear, 14x32 and a 1.80 gear set. You didn't mention what gear was in the car.

quote:

Originally posted by The Bozman:
I woudl say probably somewhere in the 48-50 out and about 3.5-4" up. put the top bar as close to the housing as you can (the ****her apart is more violent). The higher it is the more lift it provides quicker. Tightening up front shocks can help the rate of travel as well. I went 1.18 60' with no wheelie bars on a 2800lb car with a 4 link. So it is very doable. That was with a 4.30 gear, 14x32 and a 1.80 gear set. You didn't mention what gear was in the car.

Top bar is key in helping to stop wheelies and settle it down. I would do that first lower it like Bozman said and then start fine tuning it from there.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:

quote:

Originally posted by The Bozman:
I woudl say probably somewhere in the 48-50 out and about 3.5-4" up. put the top bar as close to the housing as you can (the ****her apart is more violent). The higher it is the more lift it provides quicker. Tightening up front shocks can help the rate of travel as well. I went 1.18 60' with no wheelie bars on a 2800lb car with a 4 link. So it is very doable. That was with a 4.30 gear, 14x32 and a 1.80 gear set. You didn't mention what gear was in the car.

Top bar is key in helping to stop wheelies and settle it down. I would do that first lower it like Bozman said and then start fine tuning it from there.

I can tell you this, if the car is not balanced you can adjust the bars all you want and it will still wheelie if it has enough power!

Absolutely, there are many things that effect how it hooks up and runs. It is a balancing act to get it to have all the weight on rear tires to hook up with out too much to wheelie and counterproductive.

I plotted out how it was when we ran it that 1st time. 67" out, 6 1/4" up. 52% on rear, 11 7/8 crankshaft centerline. We made a single bar change for this week and went to 51" out, still at 6 1/4 up. Lower bar at 1.1 degree down. Car has 71" wheelie bars and we had them at 6/5.5 and it did ok, but would still hit the bar and unload the tire just a bit. He made a time only after he lost and we raised the bar to the trailer loading position and it went 1.300 60'. Was going 1.32 with bars lower. We're just gonna run the bars higher and maybe hang 10 lbs on the nose. Eventually build some shorter bars, cause a 5.90 car don't need no pro-mod lookin bars.

quote:

Originally posted by Scott Creed:
I plotted out how it was when we ran it that 1st time. 67" out, 6 1/4" up. 52% on rear, 11 7/8 crankshaft centerline. We made a single bar change for this week and went to 51" out, still at 6 1/4 up. Lower bar at 1.1 degree down. Car has 71" wheelie bars and we had them at 6/5.5 and it did ok, but would still hit the bar and unload the tire just a bit. He made a time only after he lost and we raised the bar to the trailer loading position and it went 1.300 60'. Was going 1.32 with bars lower. We're just gonna run the bars higher and maybe hang 10 lbs on the nose. Eventually build some shorter bars, cause a 5.90 car don't need no pro-mod lookin bars.

But it helps. LOL