Originally posted by XPS fan: If this goes the way I think it's going to go .............
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Nope. The instagators slam of a well respected and one of the winningest converter builders out there is not worth responding to. Everyone knows he posted that just to create even more drama.
Wonder if he is related to Kim Jong-Un?
272" Spitzer 540 Chevy The Blower Shop XR1 FTI XPM Series Converter FTI Level 6 Powerglide 3.69@199 .916 60'
2017 Bradenton Heads Up Madness Open Outlaw Champ
2018 PDRA T/D #5 2019 PDRA T/D #2
2020 Retired From T/D Competition....
2020 Bradenton NMCA Hemi Shootout Winner
2021 getting back into bracket racing with a Gen3 Hemi powered 87 Cutlass.
April 11, 2018, 10:48 PM
T/D6591
Just another thread full of the little guy rants. Some things just never change. Maybe if he raced as much as he runs his mouth....oh what was i thinking that will never happen.
April 11, 2018, 11:53 PM
Footloose
I imagine the poor guy won"t ever ask a question on here again
April 12, 2018, 05:04 AM
1320racer
he never asked a question before, he was too busy commenting about me/my advice/replies.
April 12, 2018, 05:28 AM
Bucky
So the answer is..... If it isn't anything to do with the engine or anything electronic, it's the converter.
Wow! Going out on a limb! What's left? I guess if it is the tires you are going to have egg on your face.
Foxtrot Juliet Bravo
April 12, 2018, 08:13 AM
RACER99O
I'd say put a new set of plugs in it. Make sure the plug gap isn't to wide. I'd suggest 25.
Verify the button on the cap isn't burnt and the rotor strap touching the outside metal ring and or that it is touching the black button. Bend up if needed.
Make sure your engine grounds are adequate and tight. I'd suggest one to the block, each head and the intake manifold.
If you do that and it still persists, look elsewhere but that is where I would start.
Originally posted by jimmyc: Was fine when I pulled the motor out last year for freshen up and made about 8 runs this year then started fluttering. Seem to me like it’s more above 6500 rpm.
• I’ve changed every piece of the msd except the distributor. • Been over the wiring on the car also didn’t see anything there either • Been through the valves 3 times now, • had the carb apart nothing there either. • New wires and plugs also. • Tried a new battery to. • valve springs are new. • The master cut off switch has also been replaced • I have changed the chips out to. • It’s had new plug and wires also. • crank trigger and all that has been swapped out to, even rewired from box to the eye. • Rotor phased has been checked, • cap button has been checked.
What I don’t really understand is the 1st pass I make that day it’s fine then it starts the next pass and continues on each pass. Like it’s got to get heat soaked to do it. It’s fine until it’s under a load up in the rpms.
What he hasn't done yet is swap the converter. This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,
April 12, 2018, 09:00 AM
Corky
A broken convertor doesn't work one pass and then act up. Never seen that, when they're broke...they're broke. My other suggestion would be looking into things that are subject to expansion after the engine reaches temperature. Distributor components maybe? Plug wires/terminals?
Corky
April 12, 2018, 09:02 AM
1320racer
It sure does!
Again we go round and round. The OP has stated EVERYTHING ignition, fuel and valvetrain related has been checked!
So I state again...when it ain't the valve springs, ignition or fuel, it's the converter!This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer,
April 12, 2018, 09:04 AM
Mike Beck
quote:
Originally posted by Corky: A broken convertor doesn't work one pass and then act up. Never seen that, when they're broke...they're broke. My other suggestion would be looking into things that are subject to expansion after the engine reaches temperature. Distributor components maybe? Plug wires/terminals?
Not true. When the sprag in my ATI was flaky I never knew if I would get a good pass or a bad pass, but the moment I shifted from low to high I knew exactly what kind of pass I was on!
April 12, 2018, 09:06 AM
1320racer
Mike Beck knows and that now makes 6 very experienced racers that say it could be the converter!!
April 12, 2018, 09:18 AM
DragRaceResults
I would say if he could feel it but couldn't hear it I'd say possibly the converter ED.
But when he says "popping and cracking" that's what leads me to believe it's NOT the converter. You certainly can get what some may feel like a "flutter" being the converter, but he did state "popping and cracking". Just say'n, but of course... funny things happen when a converter is broken.
It seems some are driven by anger to post and others are just pass on posting of late.
I am no expert but have made a lap or 2...sounds like a ground or bad wire on ignition...converter is possible but not probable.
JMO while SMH at all the anger and hate through out this thread.
April 12, 2018, 10:01 AM
XPS fan
quote:
Originally posted by TORQIN: JMO while SMH at all the anger and hate through out this thread.
Good to see you've graduated to just watching the circus ....... it's a much better place to be.
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NHRA Pro Stock..........now on a no CARB diet.
April 12, 2018, 10:08 AM
Lenny5160
quote:
Originally posted by Mike Beck: Not true. When the sprag in my ATI was flaky I never knew if I would get a good pass or a bad pass, but the moment I shifted from low to high I knew exactly what kind of pass I was on!
I have the souvenir t-shirt from this experience as well. Now, that particular malfunction didn't cause any fluttering, popping, or cracking...
Tony Leonard
April 12, 2018, 10:35 AM
1320racer
fluttering and popping are symptoms of a hurt sprag.
chris where's "all the anger and hate through out this thread"? All I see is me and several others trying to help the OP, 6 of us stating it "could" be the converter based on the fact that he's checked everything ignition, fuel and valvetrain related and you now adding your usual drama with your comment above and "shaking my head" reference.
April 12, 2018, 11:42 AM
Mike Beck
It's a pipe rack. How hard can it be to change the convertor? Wanna try it in my car? Better have a LOT of time to waste. At times I wish I had a pipe rack!
April 12, 2018, 12:31 PM
541 goat
did not see anywhere,but are you running an alternator.
April 12, 2018, 12:31 PM
markemark
quote:
Originally posted by Mike Beck: It's a pipe rack. How hard can it be to change the convertor? Wanna try it in my car? Better have a LOT of time to waste. At times I wish I had a pipe rack!
Mike, I can R+R a convertor in my 3rd gen in under 2 hrs by myself. Buy a lift.
April 12, 2018, 12:34 PM
Corky
I've rolled a sprag or two in my time racing....when they're broke...they're flat and lazy.
Changing a convertor is an option.....but throwing parts at it like that is no different then any other part that's been thrown at it.
Diagnosing the issue is key....cracking and popping is fuel or ignition. Be my hands down bet.
Has the wiring on the car been checked for broken wires, wires can be broken internally and not show any sign of damage externally. Ohm'ing out the wires related to ignition signal front to back, wouldn't take that long.
This message has been edited. Last edited by: 1320racer, 
