Who currently makes the strongest Glide input shaft? Being used in a 2300# TS.

Bob

quote:

Originally posted by RPROGAS:
Who currently makes the strongest Glide input shaft? Being used in a 2300# TS.

Bob

1" (standard diameter) or 1.125" (oversized)?

If you're ringing off standard shafts with rings.... TSI or Coan ringless will fix it

The TD has a Coan ringless shaft that isn't a Vasco or a M300, I believe that they use another type of material one that they claim is stronger. Have no idea what brand is in the TS but it is cut for rings. In any event the TS is getting a new shaft plus a spare.

Bob

quote:

Originally posted by RPROGAS:
The TD has a Coan ringless shaft that isn't a Vasco or a M300, I believe that they use another type of material one that they claim is stronger. Have no idea what brand is in the TS but it is cut for rings. In any event the TS is getting a new shaft plus a spare.

Bob

Coan or TSI ringless takes T400 stator tube, don't just stick a ringless in the pump you have, thinking it's done. Won't work, Sir.

T400 stator tube, with two bushings like this to act as rings.

Hughes claims their AerMet 100 shafts are about unbreakable. Definitely some crazy tough stuff.


https://images.app.goo.gl/cWetRJSzgxsQ2QDBA

I ran the 1 inch Coan ringless for a couple of years, I twisted them but never broke one, its a strong piece without question.

Since I already ran a Sonnax extreme planet and 10 clutch drum I made the switch to the Sonnax 1.125 shaft. This was recommended by Marco Abruzzi as a very strong but less expensive upgrade then going to a 1.250 shaft and buying everything new. Sonnax has a kit to upgrade everything including a stator tube for a Reid pump "machine work required". Planet rear sun gear and high clutch hub. I have yet to twist one and have been very happy with the upgrade. You need to have a Sonnax plant and 10 clutch drum for this upgrade.

The 1" ringless shafts are good for 2000hp, unless you have tire shake. Tire shake will kill a 1" ringless input, which is plenty good for 2,000 hp.

We rung off 4 TSI 1" ringless inputs and twisted 1 Coan in exactly 18 laps with 3,000 hp. This was an instance of over powering the shaft, because it's impossible for tire shake with a radial tire, and it was a torque arm car, which is also impossible for tire shake.

I'd rather one rings off than twists, then you know it's broke, and you don't burn anymore fuel needlessly with a pre-existing condition.

I run 1" coan ringless, never broke one yet... they will twist slightly then stop twisting...

I've tried many standard size shafts - Coan has worked the best for me.

Have had good luck with the TSI PM shaft and pump.
Now if was a blown deal, it would be a Sonnax 1.250 with the proper converter of which is needed. 6 Pad.. and the correct internal hub.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: TD3550,

quote:

Originally posted by TD3550:
Have had good luck with the TSI PM shaft and pump.
Now if was a blown deal, it would be a Sonnax 1.125 with the proper converter of which is needed. 6 Pad.. and the correct internal hub.

Believe it or not TSI produced the first 35 spline 1.125 powerglide input shaft kit. The difference with it was, it required their solid billet steel pump with bolt in stator tube.

We ran one hundreds of laps with the Proline main man tuner doing the tuning with 3000 hp TSI 1.125 input, before he went over and tuned the JEGS pro mod to a couple NHRA pro mod championships.

TSI may still produce the kit. I think Sonnax's 4340 stator tube in their kit is probably the way to go. We ran into twisting bolt in aermet material stator tubes, when they went to a active stator converter in this car.

This was before the 1.58 low gear set was introduced onto the market, so they ended up going to a 2 sp Turbo 400 1.48 low to this day, and twin turbo's. From twin Prochargers.

The improvements Sonnax now offer in the servo department, as well as the 1.58 low gearsets have really brought new life to the Powerglide transmission, in the high HP drag racing world.

Me personally, if I ran a 35 spline input, I'd run a spragless converter.

I also think the Hughes cast aluminum tapered pan is an excellent product development. High HP.

I run the BTE ringless shaft and their pump in my stuff, never an issue. Put the same pump and shaft in my buddies blown alky funny car, no issues whatsoever.....

quote:

Originally posted by Coloradoracer:
I run the BTE ringless shaft and their pump in my stuff, never an issue. Put the same pump and shaft in my buddies blown alky funny car, no issues whatsoever.....

Like this one? Hows it work? Do ya run the line from the cooler to the pan?

Glide stator tube or T400? Did you buy 7 bolt pump, along with the input shaft?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow,

Here's another design BTE 1" ringless input shaft, This looks like a good one.

This is why all these different brand ringless inputs aren't interchangeable.

This one definitely requires a T400 stator.

Mike,
The one I'm running and is in my friends car is the one in the second pic you posted. Also running the BTE high volume pump. 7 bolts yes. You have to run that pump if you run that shaft, that's what BTE says. Normal cooling circuit, nothing added or special. I run a koolcan for a cooler, and it's only warm to the touch immediately after a run. Even going rounds it never gets too warm to touch.

ATI ringless super shaft PN 207148 and super pump 205038. Best out there. The seal rings are in the pump stator. I think you can get the stator with the sealing rings in it and press that into a stock pump, but if you are looking for the best factory diameter input shaft and a high quality aluminum body pump, ATI super pump and ATI super shaft (ringless) is my vote.

The moral of the story is, all the ringless input shafts mentioned in here.... Coan, TSI, BTE and ATI, all have one thing in common, each brand has its own proprietary pump (stator tube).

Vehicle weight is the enemy, of any given input shaft...

Mike Rietow, That is some great imformation as someone can get into mix up real quick if not carefull about shaft-pump selection. I have never broken an input shaft and have always run the 350 style input BTE,HUGHS,ATI, etc. However never made much over a 1000 hp and that was in a dragster. But as power levels go up the input shaft needs to be addressed. Your point about not mixing input shafts and pumps (ie. buy shaft and pump) from same company would spare someone a pain in the ass. Also the comment about the spraglees converter makes some sense. I have had my fingers in Powerglides all my life however not to the power levels as some run thru them. Its not too big of a challenge for a 600-1000 hp glide for me to put togeather with the available parts today. Mike you have alot more knowledge and have experienced more specific applications for the glide than I have and you are willing to comment and share. Thank you. ATI,BTE,HUGHS,COAN,TCI,SONNAX, have been the go to for me the 31 years I been getting transmission fluid on my hands.

NASA ringless, T400 stator support.
Over 1500 runs with 1000-1300 hp @2800#
Still hanging in there, got to be 2006 when I first put it in.It was pricey even back then, about 400 bucks as I remember.
I went through 2 other ringless shafts that had serious runout when I checked them between centers, like .025-.035 across the length. They were warped badly, I assume from the heat treat.