Has anyone seen this issue before. Leaking by the regulator and fuel pushing threw the carb in to a cly? Methanol carb set up with an eletric fuel pump.

Could be a bad diaphram in the regulator what brand regulator, the Holleys just take an accel pump dia i believe

Dead head regulator?
Probably a piece of dirt, or the seat might be pitted...
Be a great time to get a return style bypass regulator, especially when using the electric pump.

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:
Dead head regulator?
Probably a piece of dirt, or the seat might be pitted...
Be a great time to get a return style bypass regulator, especially when using the electric pump.

Bypass is at the pump a2000 pump. How is fuel getting in the motor? It's not pushing out the over flow... kinda of stumped pro systems sv1. Called prosystem Monday and of course no call back... smfh

quote:

Originally posted by RacerVX54:

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:
Dead head regulator?
Probably a piece of dirt, or the seat might be pitted...
Be a great time to get a return style bypass regulator, especially when using the electric pump.

Bypass is at the pump a2000 pump. How is fuel getting in the motor? It's not pushing out the over flow... kinda of stumped pro systems sv1. Called prosystem Monday and of course no call back... smfh

Double check your pressure gauge?
The other option is that the needle / seat(s) are not holding, pitted, or float is soaked?

Dominators can bleed fuel through the intermediate circuit too, you'll never see it under the throttle blades.

I'd still opt for a regulator at the carburetor fuel log end, with a constant flow return.

quote:

Originally posted by Goob:
Dead head regulator?
Probably a piece of dirt, or the seat might be pitted...
Be a great time to get a return style bypass regulator, especially when using the electric pump.

THIS! I will never again run a deadhead regulator on a race car. And the bypass at the pump really is not much better. You want full flow of volume of fuel at the carb and at the right pressure your carb needs. Plus your pump will use less amps, run cooler and last much longer at 8 PSI than it will at 22 PSI.

GOOB is also right that it could be a heavy float or bad needle and seat. And he to is right that now is a great time to get a return style regulator.

Where is your fuel gauge and is it accurate? Many of the cheap small gauges can be way off.

There is nothing wrong with a dead head regulator, nothing! You can have a preference to either, they both work when setup correctly. Also there is no reason to run 8 PSI of fuel pressure at the carb. High carb fuel inlet pressure will aerate the fuel when it passes the needle and seat. If you need to run that much fuel pressure to keep from draining the bowls your N&S is too small. In extreme cases a dual N&S bowls are required.

As for fuel leaking, assuming you aren't running to much fuel pressure and the float level is not to high, into the motor, check the carb, all the gaskets, especially the power valve/plug gasket(s). I would double check the fuel pressure with another gauge too!

So i sent my sv1 off last spring for a rebuild. Bought it in 2010 and its been fine since the purchase. Raced all last season and it was fine... Getting ready for the first spring race and i warm the car up starts fine runs for 15-20 mins up to time. So i cut it off and hook the truck up to load the car up.. Get in it to start it around 40 mins later and it wont turn over... So i am wtf. Pill number 2 and 4 plug i got fuel in #2. Spin is over pump all the fuel out. Plugs back in and it starts runs fine... Notice fuel on the back of the butterfly so i pull the bowl to inspect reinstall and the fuel i seen is no longer happening.. Load it up get to the track 2 days later same thing its hydro locked... Again pull the plugs spin it over get the fuel out load it up and i come home... Pulled the rebuild sheet from prosystems and its got .130 needle and seats in it per the build sheet and number on the N/s. Suppose to be .150 stainless N/S. Needle and seat in the carb dont move freely so i ordered the correct ones i need.. The fuel set up has been fine the way its been used.. I am gonna get thur this season and i am going be calling James to go injected..

quote:

Originally posted by TOP38:
There is nothing wrong with a dead head regulator, nothing! You can have a preference to either, they both work when setup correctly. Also there is no reason to run 8 PSI of fuel pressure at the carb. High carb fuel inlet pressure will aerate the fuel when it passes the needle and seat. If you need to run that much fuel pressure to keep from draining the bowls your N&S is too small. In extreme cases a dual N&S bowls are required.

As for fuel leaking, assuming you aren't running to much fuel pressure and the float level is not to high, into the motor, check the carb, all the gaskets, especially the power valve/plug gasket(s). I would double check the fuel pressure with another gauge too!

Fuel was getting in with the car not running. Also will be replacing the reg along with the other parts in the carb

How high in the car does the fuel tank sit compared to the carburetor? My old Vega the rear mounted tank was almost completely above the carburetor when car was sitting on the tires. Motor had been lowered in frame to combat excessive wheel stands. If I didn’t drain the tank or raise front of the car fuel would seep through the carburetor and lock up the engine. Took a while to figure out what was going on.

quote:

Originally posted by Wooley:
How high in the car does the fuel tank sit compared to the carburetor? My old Vega the rear mounted tank was almost completely above the carburetor when car was sitting on the tires. Motor had been lowered in frame to combat excessive wheel stands. If I didn’t drain the tank or raise front of the car fuel would seep through the carburetor and lock up the engine. Took a while to figure out what was going on.

I had that problem with my roadster. If it didn't put enough in to hydraulic it still put alcohol in the oil and I could see my vacuum get better through the day as the fuel would get boiled out so I put one of these on it. Probably won't help Brian but might help someone else.

quote:

Originally posted by Wooley:
How high in the car does the fuel tank sit compared to the carburetor? My old Vega the rear mounted tank was almost completely above the carburetor when car was sitting on the tires. Motor had been lowered in frame to combat excessive wheel stands. If I didn’t drain the tank or raise front of the car fuel would seep through the carburetor and lock up the engine. Took a while to figure out what was going on.

Sump on the take is about the same level with the bottom of the reg and the carb is 10 inch higher then the reg.

quote:

Originally posted by CURTIS REED:

quote:

Originally posted by Wooley:
How high in the car does the fuel tank sit compared to the carburetor? My old Vega the rear mounted tank was almost completely above the carburetor when car was sitting on the tires. Motor had been lowered in frame to combat excessive wheel stands. If I didn’t drain the tank or raise front of the car fuel would seep through the carburetor and lock up the engine. Took a while to figure out what was going on.

I had that problem with my roadster. If it didn't put enough in to hydraulic it still put alcohol in the oil and I could see my vacuum get better through the day as the fuel would get boiled out so I put one of these on it. Probably won't help Brian but might help someone else.

Not a b
ad idea to be honest