quote:

Originally posted by seabass:
Thanks.. Its pretty fast most of the time, just wondering why I have this and others don't. What was said does make sense, as I don't run much air and do see a decent of squat on my travel sensor on the chassis.

Didn't realize other people had it too.

The driveshaft sensor on my altered looked like yours where it climbs a little faster than the engine RPM for a few feet. But it never drops. I think that is a combination of wadding the tire up and maybe a little spin to get up on the tire.

Now my dragster was having issues and it would go up to 1800 RPM then drop all the way to 1400 RPM then climb again. That is not good an I think (Hope) I have resolved that issue. Made major changes and will know in a few weeks.

J.R. I don't have the same power but did have the same check mark, believe it or not I went up a 1/4 pound of air and it all but eliminated it. Video showed the tire would wad up and then release and that was the check mark. Good job on the win today.

Thanks, I went up .5 and saw no change this weekend other then it hurt me at .9 out so I went back down to where I was. In a slow motion video the tire slips about 3” then grabs and goes which is probably what created the check mark

I can't remember if you tried loosening the extension. Or even going up with the two step to hit the tire harder. I usually think the easy first steps for initial spin are more two step rpm, let dampening on the shock extension, and less tire pressure.

we did go down on the extension this week with no change but didn't change the launch as we were working out a curve to race with

What ever you did was working. Congratulations on another Wally this weekend!

Pretty amazing weekend, the car goes from not going down the track at all on Friday due to spin/shake to the winner circle on Sunday. Whatever you did it dam sure worked!

Thanks guys, it worked out in the end for sure.

Come by our trailer at the Dallas double divisional and Lance and I can share with you what we are finding on the truck. We have always had the check mark and are making strides in fixing it. I feel like it could help you as our truck is sure turning a corner in the chassis dept. It is going to be in the 4-link.

quote:

Originally posted by seabass:
we did go down on the extension this week with no change but didn't change the launch as we were working out a curve to race with

I always consider pressure, shocks and two step the "easy" changes. They are smaller incremental steps. If you need a larger change, the 4 link is where it is at. Then you fine tun again with the other items.
I would be remiss if I didn't mention the converter and how it hits as well. I would consider that on the "big change" list. If you are getting just the initial minor spin, and having success, you must not be out in left field.

SO how do you get rid of the SO CALLED check mark? You have to set the tires to launch the car, no way around that fact. So unless your not using slicks with the typical wrinkle type side walls, you will always have a so called check mark! Now whether you can see it or should I say pick it up with a data logger or not is another question! But, there is always going to be DS movement without car movement right at the hit in order to set the tires. That's the physics of the deal.

Seabass's check marks will change based on track conditions, power applied, tire air pressure etc along with the locations of the magnets prior to the hit. As the track gets better and power is increased they will become more pronounced on the graph and I'd bet you will also see a corresponding increase in the G meter graph also!