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DRR Pro
Picture of SlyFox
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If it's a street-driven car only, it should have a functional choke, and it should have a street advance curve built into the distributor, including both vacuum advance and mechanical advance. None of that locked-out advance crap.

My Chevelle had a mild 10:1 496 BBC and ran mid-11's in the 1/4 mile. I pushed the accelerator to the floor ONCE to provide one stroke of fuel via the accelerator pump and to set the choke. The engine then fired IMMEDIATELY upon engaging the starter, no matter how long the car might have sat.

I think you're going down the wrong path with all these voltage tests and what-not. It's a simple tuning issue.


Mike
 
Posts: 1592 | Location: Marietta, GA | Registered: December 09, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of SlyFox
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quote:
It's never had a working choke on it even though there's one in the air horn.


There's your problem


Mike
 
Posts: 1592 | Location: Marietta, GA | Registered: December 09, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Ron Gusack
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quote:
Originally posted by SlyFox:
If it's a street-driven car only, it should have a functional choke, and it should have a street advance curve built into the distributor, including both vacuum advance and mechanical advance. None of that locked-out advance crap.

My Chevelle had a mild 10:1 496 BBC and ran mid-11's in the 1/4 mile. I pushed the accelerator to the floor ONCE to provide one stroke of fuel via the accelerator pump and to set the choke. The engine then fired IMMEDIATELY upon engaging the starter, no matter how long the car might have sat.

I think you're going down the wrong path with all these voltage tests and what-not. It's a simple tuning issue.

Thanks Mike, This car hasn't had a choke for all the years he's owned it. It's only driven in decent weather and this starting issue started about a year ago. The distributor isn't locked but only has centrifugal advance. He put a new HEI in it but the old one didn't have vacuum advance either.
 
Posts: 465 | Location: Maryland | Registered: January 23, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of SlyFox
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Unless the wiring is in really poor condition, I would doubt the voltage drop issue. That said, a stock Chevelle would have had a resistor limiting voltage to the stock points/external coil ignition, whereas HEI requires a full 12v. Hope he gets it fixed whatever it turns out to be. I still think he'll enjoy the car more if he adds the Holley electric choke, tunes it, adds vacuum advance, etc. Easy to do with HEI.

EDIT: You mention Painless wiring, so this car has been re-wired. The old resistor wire is probably a non-issue.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: SlyFox,


Mike
 
Posts: 1592 | Location: Marietta, GA | Registered: December 09, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
Picture of 1leg
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9.1 volts at the HEI while cranking seems low to me. I would check at the battery while cranking if you’re seeing 11v at the battery and 9 at the HEI he likely has some wiring that has bad connection. If he is seeing 9v at the battery while cranking he has a bad battery.

I suspect that he also has Carburetor problems also.


Meziere Tech.
Make sure your water pump is on whenever you check your coolant level.
 
Posts: 267 | Location: Escondido | Registered: July 01, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of HS professor
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Simple test ........

Run a jumper wire directly from the battery to HEI, you'll now have battery voltage at the distributor, 9.3 does seem low.
 
Posts: 1422 | Location: Monroe twp nj | Registered: December 05, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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Any update Ron? Were you able to get him fixed up? Take care. Tom Worthington


If it seems that bracket racing has gotten too expensive for you, maybe you are just doing it wrong.
 
Posts: 1276 | Location: Rocky Mount, NC | Registered: December 01, 1999Reply With QuoteReport This Post



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