Anyone running one that would to share some info on experience with them? Few question about how much tunablity in one for multple engine combos and uses. Also consistency when change back and forth for different combo.
Due to always stupid comments from some on site that have little to do with question.PM's might work better.

You can dyno your motor for a few hundred dollars and would know EXACTLY where you need to stall it. Then one call to Hughes converters and it will be exactly where it needs to be for that motor, gear and combination.

For most bracket racers a bolt together converter would be a total waste of several thousand dollars that you could spend where it would help you more.

If you just have to spend several thousand dollars put it on a Data Logger or something that will really help you much more.

A bolt together converter does nothing better than a regular converter except give you the opportunity to change it and potential for a leak. They look pretty but nobody sees them.

While I agree with Curly, I like the idea of a bolt together for no other reason than it would allow you to possibly correct a stall speed in the case of the company missing the stall. Also, to either soften the hit or make it work the tire harder for use on different tracks/surfaces. A stator change would be cheaper than having multiple converters in the trailer.
Freshen up in off season can be done on your own bench. Cleaning after a transmission failure can be done the same way.

Many advantages and only one draw back that I can see. EXPENSIVE..

I have a Neal Chance I bought several years ago and have yet to use it because my FTI works well. And, unless I call Chance it is hard to get any answers as to what changes it may need to enable me to use it.
I use email/text almost exclusively because of my hearing, so unless I am standing in front of you I have issues. Or I let my wife do the talking..lol
Replacement parts other than the stator are pretty much off the shelf. Oring is a C6 front pump, bearings and shims are common torrington, other than that a mechanical diode. The pump which you cannot change other than bending the fins.

My .02.

Dave

Let me add.

The Chance converter I bought was behind a 572 B1 engine with 2 stages of nitrous. I planned to use it behind my 1300 HP blower motor and I think it would have been close.
Later I wanted to use it behind a 572 B1 with out nitrous and figured it would be a dog. That's when I attempted to get Chance to tell me if I could make changes to make it work.
I never got a return answer from Chance but a couple of other converter people told me it would be hard to make it work because I needed a 9 inch, (this one is a 10/10 1/2 inch).
Also, I called FTI and planned to have them make it one of theirs and was told that their parts would not work in it.

Just additional info to consider.

Dave

My bolt together Abruzzi was $500 more than the welded converter and worth every penny. It is also lighter with the aluminum cover. I have a couple of different stators that I can change out quickly, one tighter for the good spring air and one a bit looser when the air is bad in the summer. I smoked a trans earlier this season and was able to take it apart and clean it between runs while I swapped out the trans, you could never do that with a welded converter.

Ok. I was looking to avoid reason for in terest.

I like being able to run car in different class'. I also will be playing with different loads of nitro for cpl things. Nitro is huge tq boost.Torque is what decides where converter stalls at. A simple 20% load should raise my stall by about 800 rpm and would waste a lot of the benefit of the nitro.
At same time I would like to be able to have car where it will repeat for bracket racing. I also like being able to change stall and tune converter w/o shipping back and forth.


Kind of like David was talking about.

Hell may not even be possible to have one that can make changes I want. That is what I am investigating. I can always have a converter for each deal,but even at that its not going to work with 20% and then try 30% and it work the same. Dang sure not going to work with alky and 30% the same since I would gain 20 to 22% tq. It is just a thought I had while reading some stuff on these.

Please guys save the space by not telling me I need to run car ,get it working and leave it if I want to bracket race it.

So, how much tighter or looser can you adjust them typically?

I made two calls today requesting info.Guess Monday bad day in all business.

quote:

Originally posted by Curly1:
You can dyno your motor for a few hundred dollars and would know EXACTLY where you need to stall it. Then one call to Hughes converters and it will be exactly where it needs to be for that motor, gear and combination.

For most bracket racers a bolt together converter would be a total waste of several thousand dollars that you could spend where it would help you more.

If you just have to spend several thousand dollars put it on a Data Logger or something that will really help you much more.

A bolt together converter does nothing better than a regular converter except give you the opportunity to change it and potential for a leak. They look pretty but nobody sees them.

Just spent 1400 on rpm data logger and getting ready for 500 more for egt's after I get back from rac e this weekend with TA/D car. Figure the cash may come in handy if find deal or two.

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:
So, how much tighter or looser can you adjust them typically?

Bucky thats is a really loaded question because every combo is going to act different. With me in the car at 2120 lb my blown dragster combo, going from a 41* to a 39* stator will loosen the converter about 200-250 rpm depending on conditions and boost