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Crankcase evac w/alky
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DRR Trophy
posted
I'm finally making the change from race gas to alky. I've heard all kinds of problems could result. What type of evac system is most recommended and what type would be cheapest? Are there electrical evac systems? Also, do any of you guys use a thermostat? I've already installed a 160* to see how that works. Thanks
 
Posts: 88 | Location: Mooresville, nc | Registered: October 11, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Mad Dog
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Most recommended type: Belt driven Vac. pump venting into a catch tank with pump having a "properly adjusted" pressure valve.

Cheapest type: Header evac (not as effective as Vac. pump)

Electric EVac systems: They exist but opinions very on level of effectiveness.

My experience is belt driven 3 or 4 vane vac pump is best bang for the buck long term. Initial investment is most definitely NOT the cheape$t choice though…


Dan


Dan

DOES YOUR IDEOLOGY ALLOW YOU TO EQUITABLY APPLY STANDARDS OF ACCOUNTABILITY OR DOES IT PROMOTE THE PRACTICE OF HYPOCRISY?
 
Posts: 226 | Location: ... --- ... | Registered: November 19, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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Problems come from setup not tuned correctly! Not from the evac systems! Before vac pumps were available the best thing to do with header evac setups was to remove them from the valve cover after racing is done to let the motor breath. Always put it in the trailer hot.

I have run a moroso 4 vane deal for some time now with now issues! I'd recommend this!
 
Posts: 2163 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Mad Dog
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Great point Top38, removal of evac hose from valve cover after runs / at the end of day, allows moisture to escape while engine is cooling after its use. We still do this at the end of the day even having a belt driven vac pump...


Dan


Dan

DOES YOUR IDEOLOGY ALLOW YOU TO EQUITABLY APPLY STANDARDS OF ACCOUNTABILITY OR DOES IT PROMOTE THE PRACTICE OF HYPOCRISY?
 
Posts: 226 | Location: ... --- ... | Registered: November 19, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of TomR
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Ran a header evac system for years before I had a vacuum pump.

Take the steel mesh out of the breathers and leave it out before you run them. Leave the breathers out of the valve covers between races and always get it good and hot when you put it away. I still put the lean out and get mine up over 200* when I pull onto the trailer at the end of the day.


72 Nova "Hooptie"
 
Posts: 791 | Location: Hanover, MD | Registered: June 20, 2016Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by 62Galaxie:
What type of system would be cheapest?


EVAC is all I’ve ever run in mfi sbc for 13 yrs. Here’s oils samples from 2018 /19. Do you see any water? I don’t see any moisture when I remove the valve covers when cold.

I stage at 170 – 175*. Get engine temp to 200* at end of race day with Primer Plus. This works best and no maintenance for me.
 
Posts: 2671 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of FootbrakeJim
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This is exactly why I started the thread searching for BBC Valve Covers with a removable fill cap on one side, and vac fitting on the other. I can't keep the moisture out of my top end unless I pull both valve covers after I load the car in the trailer. Which means 14 bolts of 2 different lengths, (long extension for 8 of them, no ext for the other 6), plus pulling 6 of the 8 plug wires off, between hot header tubes. (Not something I like doing after a long day at the track, in tight quarters, at 1, 2, or 3:00 AM!). Big Grin
I run header evacs, but the hoses are connected to tall, Mopar-style breathers on my cast valve covers,which are not removable from the outside. Those breathers have way too much baffling, (presumably for oil control), and they just do not provide adequate venting of moisture vapors, even if I remove the hoses. Leaning it out and getting the coolant temp up does no good if you can't purge the water vapor out of the crankcase, it simply condenses on everything under the covers when it cools down.
(I suppose I should try removing both of the hoses, and use a shop-vac on one side, to suck the steam out). My plan with the new covers is to heat the car up good, load it up, then remove the fill cap and vac line from the valve covers. Maybe even add a tee fitting to vac hose with a large ball valve I can open up after car is loaded and shut down, (similar to a lean out setup). That way, in less than 30 seconds I can pull fill cap and open vent valve to air things out.


Dan "Jim" Moore
Much too young to feel this damn old!!
 
Posts: 1101 | Location: Farmersville, TX  | Registered: December 05, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Sportsman
Picture of 23taltered
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One of these is the best bang for your buck when you decide to step up to a vacuum pump. Let me know if you need one. I know a guy...


https://www.gzmotorsports.com/...vacuum-pump-kit.html


Bill Huntington
GZMOTORSPORTS.com

gzmotorsports.com/video/PRI2010.wmv
 
Posts: 163 | Location: Northern Cal | Registered: January 06, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by FootbrakeJim:
This is exactly why I started the thread searching for BBC Valve Covers with a removable fill cap on one side, and vac fitting on the other. I can't keep the moisture out of my top end unless I pull both valve covers after I load the car in the trailer. Which means 14 bolts of 2 different lengths, (long extension for 8 of them, no ext for the other 6), plus pulling 6 of the 8 plug wires off, between hot header tubes. (Not something I like doing after a long day at the track, in tight quarters, at 1, 2, or 3:00 AM!). Big Grin
I run header evacs, but the hoses are connected to tall, Mopar-style breathers on my cast valve covers,which are not removable from the outside. Those breathers have way too much baffling, (presumably for oil control), and they just do not provide adequate venting of moisture vapors, even if I remove the hoses. Leaning it out and getting the coolant temp up does no good if you can't purge the water vapor out of the crankcase, it simply condenses on everything under the covers when it cools down.
(I suppose I should try removing both of the hoses, and use a shop-vac on one side, to suck the steam out). My plan with the new covers is to heat the car up good, load it up, then remove the fill cap and vac line from the valve covers. Maybe even add a tee fitting to vac hose with a large ball valve I can open up after car is loaded and shut down, (similar to a lean out setup). That way, in less than 30 seconds I can pull fill cap and open vent valve to air things out.


Get weld on filler caps!
 
Posts: 2163 | Location: Tewksbury, MA,USA | Registered: November 03, 2000Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of rs72z
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When i ran a small block i ran a electric pump off a camaro. Injected alky, never had any problem with moisture. Like others have said, the correct tune and putting heat in the engine at the end of the day is key!
 
Posts: 206 | Location: texas | Registered: November 13, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
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I run a vacuum pump but if you are concerned about moisture most important thing is to get water temp over 200* at end of day to evaporate moisture out.


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"Dunning-Kruger Effect"
-a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge.

Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue.

4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion
 
Posts: 4278 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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