Goob, I'm not overly happy with you since you started with this thread! I've been researching what I need to install a dry system to my racing program.

I really don't know if I want to add the nitrous or not. I really could use it when racing S/Pro this year, with & without a box. With our short off season, it may or may not happen.

I've it narrowed down to 2 different dry shot kits. One with a 200hp max. & the other 300hp max. I like the 300 kit but it's a dry plate set-up that I don't like. It would have the quickest/hardest hit, that I do like. Oh well, we'll see.

2BKING

Me having thoughts is almost always gonna be dangerous.

We did this back in the early 2000's on a dragster I was driving. We found it by mistake. We had a leaking purge solenoid that leaked into the scoop. The car was deadly consistent when the nitrous was on and leaking. It made its own atmosphere inside the scoop. When the weather changed, the car stayed the same and there were no big swings day to night.

Since then, I have incorporated this on everything I've driven. I just use a plate system, microswitch and timer. I hit it with as small a nitrous jet as possible .016-.022. I can purge it into the engine at an idle in gear and raise the rpm 200. That is what my target is.

For the fuel side, I use that for cold starts only since I am on alcohol.

http://www.robietherobot.com/nitrousjetcalculator.htm

An .018 jet is around 14hp. Not enough to change ET but enough to affect the intake charge and temp.

If you want to get real fancy, use a 2 stage plate and put 400 under thumb for driving the stripe.

How long did a bottle last doing that?

I had an on/off lever in the dragster. Open going into the water and close in the shut down. A bottle lasted a long time.

Even in my Nova, it last a very long time.