No diodes, they fail. And ZERO issues with fly back voltage. When I stop pushing starter button, EVERYTHING at the starter is electrically dead. Simple. Too many people overthink this and think you need all sorts of devices for this and that to make it work. You don't. I've wired starters like this for DECADES. Not one problem other than the remote solenoid failing from time to time, which they can and will do. I see no reason to add in a failure prone electronic device like a diode to "cure" a non-existent problem.

I wouldn’t think the starter and I was not clear…
Mostly on the trans brake stored voltages.

I don't have one on the starter solenoid.

And if the diode goes bad or comes loose, you essentially have a solenoid without a diode. I see zero risk and depending on what you have in the car the flyback voltage can cause issues. $0.25 insurance plan.

All reputable wiring people like Davis Technologies, Lingenfelter, MSD engineers, and a few resident experts all highly recommend them.

Ok speaking of electrical stuff: On my data I see my tps starts right about 100%. And it loses percentage all the way down to 85% by the end of the 1/8. It's pretty steady without jerking. If it were my foot actually moving I would think it would have bumps in the data. I'm not that steady. Kinda curious what is happening there.

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:
Ok speaking of electrical stuff: On my data I see my tps starts right about 100%. And it loses percentage all the way down to 85% by the end of the 1/8. It's pretty steady without jerking. If it were my foot actually moving I would think it would have bumps in the data. I'm not that steady. Kinda curious what is happening there.

We had the same issue with our 1st Holley throttle body. We started with 97% & ended up with around mid to high 80% range. I figured it had something to do with the throttle cable/bracket. We changed to a better bracket with a hard throttle stop. It didn't totally fix it, but it vastly improved.

With our new Holley throttle body, we start at 100% & on some occasions it drops to 98-99% during the run. There's only one area I think to fix this is a hard stop under the gas pedal.

2BKING

I was working on the wiring on one of my rides that had nitrous. So, lots of wires. Just triple checking stuff.
A local customer that dirt track raced stopped by.

As we chatted while I fussed he said that they got to the point that they replace every switch, relay and wire every winter.
I found that interesting and asked why because this guy was tight with a nickel.

He said that since they started doing that they didn't have stupid mystery S**t happening mid season.
Sounded wise so I do that now also.

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:
Ok speaking of electrical stuff: On my data I see my tps starts right about 100%. And it loses percentage all the way down to 85% by the end of the 1/8. It's pretty steady without jerking. If it were my foot actually moving I would think it would have bumps in the data. I'm not that steady. Kinda curious what is happening there.

We had the same issue with our 1st Holley throttle body. We started with 97% & ended up with around mid to high 80% range. I figured it had something to do with the throttle cable/bracket. We changed to a better bracket with a hard throttle stop. It didn't totally fix it, but it vastly improved.

With our new Holley throttle body, we start at 100% & on some occasions it drops to 98-99% during the run. There's only one area I think to fix this is a hard stop under the gas pedal.

2BKING

Very interesting

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:
Ok speaking of electrical stuff: On my data I see my tps starts right about 100%. And it loses percentage all the way down to 85% by the end of the 1/8. It's pretty steady without jerking. If it were my foot actually moving I would think it would have bumps in the data. I'm not that steady. Kinda curious what is happening there.

We had the same issue with our 1st Holley throttle body. We started with 97% & ended up with around mid to high 80% range. I figured it had something to do with the throttle cable/bracket. We changed to a better bracket with a hard throttle stop. It didn't totally fix it, but it vastly improved.

With our new Holley throttle body, we start at 100% & on some occasions it drops to 98-99% during the run. There's only one area I think to fix this is a hard stop under the gas pedal.

2BKING

Very interesting

I attribute it to cable stretch & throttle bracket flex. I'm pretty sure when I install the hard stop under the gas pedal. It will fix the little bit of occasional variance that's left. These fixes were from researching issues involving cable operated throttles.

2BKING

quote:

Originally posted by Dave Koehler:
I was working on the wiring on one of my rides that had nitrous. So, lots of wires. Just triple checking stuff.
A local customer that dirt track raced stopped by.

As we chatted while I fussed he said that they got to the point that they replace every switch, relay and wire every winter.
I found that interesting and asked why because this guy was tight with a nickel.

He said that since they started doing that they didn't have stupid mystery S**t happening mid season.
Sounded wise so I do that now also.

Depending on the environment the car is kept in and raced in maybe. Keep in mind these dirt track guys are in rain and other stuff a lot more than our drag cars.

On the throttle change guys I would rig up a simple nitrous switch to see if the thottle physically is staying on. This would give you an on and off signal you could log. If it stays on 100%, then you have zero worries unless your fuel and timing tables are different from 100% to whatever it ends up at. If its physically moving I would work on how the thottle is controlled. I would highly suggest a cable like transmissions use. I switched to that years ago to be able to have toe hook and pull thottle back in event of throttle sticking.

Follow up to my grounding issue. Raced last points race. Ended up in the finals of pro. Came up 2 points short of winning super pro points for the season. With getting to the finals I am probably second on pro as well for points. Sure wish I had not missed a race and found this problem sooner. Car now is ridiculously good. Same dial, unless I am holding every run for last 30+ passes.

quote:

Originally posted by B KING:

quote:

Originally posted by Bucky:
Ok speaking of electrical stuff: On my data I see my tps starts right about 100%. And it loses percentage all the way down to 85% by the end of the 1/8. It's pretty steady without jerking. If it were my foot actually moving I would think it would have bumps in the data. I'm not that steady. Kinda curious what is happening there.

We had the same issue with our 1st Holley throttle body. We started with 97% & ended up with around mid to high 80% range. I figured it had something to do with the throttle cable/bracket. We changed to a better bracket with a hard throttle stop. It didn't totally fix it, but it vastly improved.

With our new Holley throttle body, we start at 100% & on some occasions it drops to 98-99% during the run. There's only one area I think to fix this is a hard stop under the gas pedal.

2BKING

It's early so I am just throwing stuff at the wall here.

I have doubts about the stretching cable idea unless its one of those Lokar things.
1: Don't overlook your connections. If you use the ball and socket QR ends is it time to change them?

2: If nut and bolt do you have a good fit and would a shoulder bolt be better than a threaded bolt? I mean the threads of a bolt can be sloppy when new.
3: What about a stiffer return spring?

4: The sensor itself. How does it attach?

5: Hard stops. Got one under the pedal?

6: While it would bother me also I doubt that a 2% measurement difference has any effect on performance. I could see 2% attributed to temperature expansion/contraction.

7: With engine off, manually operate the throttle while looking for culprits you may not find anything out of whack.
You could then chalk it up to instrument drift.

8: Cold to hot. Does calibration in the software at home in the shade zero out fine but the car in 90 degree track heat results in having to re-calibrate it for the day?

All good stuff. Sensor is mounted in the 105mm throttle body. Yes on the pedal stop.

You have a flimsy cable or a push and pull type like on your transmission?

If flimsy, could the air be pulling the butterfly shut?

Would recommend a push pull type.

quote:

Originally posted by ski_dwn_it:
You have a flimsy cable or a push and pull type like on your transmission?

If flimsy, could the air be pulling the butterfly shut?

Would recommend a push pull type.

It’s a push/pull
We have seen this on my son’s car too. It’s kinda perplexing

Great experience share thanks!
Will be doing some checking