I'm getting my car front halved and would like to lower the engine in the car. What is minimum safe clearance for old normal lower end tracks (not national event perfect pits tracks) I'm debating swapping to dry sump so we can lower it more. Is the dry sump system worth any performance advantage? What are the negatives to dry sump other than extra crap under the hood? What is a good crankshaft center to ground measurement for a 4.90's-5.0's tube chassis car?

Check out my reply on YB

dry sump def has a added cost I did this a few yrs ago as I was not happy with not having oil pressure in the shutdown. you will be adding some weight also make sure the rack will be mounted to clear your oil pump since you are doing the chassis work now. I don't remember for sure, but I believe my motor is around 11 high when it was wet, I did not change the height when I went to the dry sump either I have been 5.0 also

I have a Moroso Accusump 3 quart tank with an electrical solenoid (with a relay attached to the ignition switch) mounted between the front of the engine and the radiator. It required a different oil filter adapter that has an inlet/outlet port for the AN line out of, and return to the accusump tank. It's a flawless, simple and inexpensive system compared to a full dry pump system, less expensive but very effective.

Since I installed the accusump system I have never experienced a loss of oil pressure during the shut-down period/area.

NOTE: Calculating the correct oil level in the pan requires a little thought.

Bob

If I was to go to a dry sump I would definitely go with the Dailey pan and pump. The pan is billet and the pump is built in so no plumping on inlet side, much more clearance and no pump mounting issues. It is a little more expensive up front but when you consider mounting, brackets and plumbing I think it is best and most economical route and you have a clean looking installation. If you do the old style all of those inlet hoses are a real pain to make, route and hook up as there is no room between pump and block.

You still have the issue of where to mount your tank and filter.

Accumulator is far cheaper and has other advantages (oil when motor off for a long time). I have an extra with rebuild kit if anyone is interested. Text me a 814.594.2357

Thanks for the replies, I'm going to replace the pan and pump either way as the pan is wrinkled on both sides and just afraid the pump may have some unseen damage. Odd part is not a mark on the bottom of the pan but both sides and buckled. Would like to lower the engine so the dry sump would be beneficial for that.

Curly thanks for that, sounds like a really nice simpler setup. Will certainly look into that.