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DRR Sportsman |
I see it now. The nail goes in from the engine side and is pretty parallel to the ground. Where am I gonna find one of those things and what do I call it when I start calling around? How in the how did that thing come out? Could have been another reverse finish line deal. | |||
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| DRR Pro |
How it came out, I have no idea. Getting a replacement would have to be the easiest part of all time to find. It literally IS a finishing nail. You'll have to use our imagination to reinstall it. Usually, I slide it in with the front pump removed. With the trans in the car, I'd bend it, and then straight it as I installed it. But I know you. You'll overthink it.  Just take the win for once.  Take care. Tom WorthingtonIf it seems that bracket racing has gotten too expensive for you, maybe you are just doing it wrong. | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
It ain't an over think when you consider the possibilities of what could have happened. Does it come out the other side some? I could only see one hole and that was toward the engine. It's called and inside detent lever pin. I guess I can mic the broken one and find one 5 thou thicker for some serious interference. Thanks for your help cause I might have struggled to find that hole, although the slot in the shaft makes it look obvious. | |||
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| DRR Pro |
The empty case I'm looking at has a passage for the NAIL all the way through. I imagine you could have a shaft turned down from a steel forging. (sigh) Take care. Tom Worthington If it seems that bracket racing has gotten too expensive for you, maybe you are just doing it wrong. | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Ron, did you get things put back together? That pin truly is a finishing nail, there was no specially manufactured part from GM. And you are right to have some concern about the potential for things that could go wrong. What you need to do, is try and find out what caused that nail to break. As with most component or part failures, the breakage we see is often a symptom of some other cause. That pin/nail should literally have zero side-loading on it. Check out the positioning of your shift cable bracket, the cable routing, motor & trans mounts, anything you can think of that would put any side to side tension on the trans selector lever or the shift shaft. Not saying it wasn't just random failure or fatigued/heat cycles, but I have never seen one of those break before. Maybe it was reused on a previous rebuild? Since they are bent during the installation (if done in-car), then if someone removed it, (and straightened it), then re-installed it, we know bending a piece of metal multiple times in the same place is asking for trouble, unless it is highly malleable or spring steel. Normally the only reason to remove that shaft in the car, is to replace a leaky shaft seal, (and only if one doesn't have the really neat tool that Snap-On or others made for extracting the seal with the shaft in place). So maybe that happened, and the nail was reused? Anyway, find a new nail, (it does not need an interference fit, will not fall out if properly installed), double-check to make sure nothing is side-loading that lever/shaft, and you should be good to go! Dan "Jim" Moore Much too young to feel this damn old!! | |||
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| DRR Sportsman |
It's back together with a nail and a small bracket to act as a stop if the cable tries to move outboard more than .125. This car has made a couple thousand runs with the same cable mounted to the same bracket and there doesn't appear to be any side loading when I take the cable out of the lever. I'll keep an eye on it and see what happens. Thanks for your suggestion to look at the VB because I was just gonna yank the damn thing out which ain't easy for me to do anymore, so I greatly appreciate your suggestion.  | |||
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