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Crank trigger ignition issue
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DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
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One other thing you could check is to make sure the rotor is phased good.


https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/
"Dunning-Kruger Effect"
-a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge.

Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue.

4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion
 
Posts: 4008 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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Consider moving the ignition ON to a different switch on the switch panel. Or if it’s a stand-alone switch, just replace. Something as simple as this has known to cause some the problems you are experiencing.

Re-wiring the car may also be an option. I had to do this when I was unable to fix an intermittent ignition miss problem after first start-up of the day. I knew it was electrical because Grid showed this in the data acquisition.
 
Posts: 2457 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
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quote:
Originally posted by fo'braker:
I’ve experienced the same issue and chased everything. For me it was an issue in the distributor cap, allowing arcing to jump around at higher RPMs. Vent was open however o removed the little plastic tab and also drilled a 1/4 inch hole to allow extra venting. Problem went away. This was on a MSD crank trigger distributor, sbc.


How did you determine this was happening?
 
Posts: 664 | Location: UTD | Registered: September 25, 2019Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
Picture of Alaskaracer
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I think you're fine with the plugs you have, but one step hotter wouldn't hurt. If you didn't have the issues before, and now you do, and the only change made was wires and plugs, then as you've been told go back to the ones that worked. I'm gonna throw this one in there, and you've already seen it by checking them. Don't go cheap on wires. Good wires cost money and there is a reason they do. Cheap wires get you what you paid for.

Start with the basics. Go back to when it wasn't acting up, start from there and work your way through the problem. One thing at a time, you'll find the cause.

I agree on ignition, I'd dump the 7al and get something better. Very problematic ignitions. Not sure if the newer ones are any better...


Mark Goulette
Owner/Driver of the Livin' The Dream Racing dragster
www.livinthedreamracing.com
"Speed kills but it's better than going slow!"
Authorized Amsoil Retailer
 
Posts: 1466 | Location: Back home in Alaska! | Registered: February 13, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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quote:
Originally posted by Holytown:
quote:
Originally posted by fo'braker:
I’ve experienced the same issue and chased everything. For me it was an issue in the distributor cap, allowing arcing to jump around at higher RPMs. Vent was open however o removed the little plastic tab and also drilled a 1/4 inch hole to allow extra venting. Problem went away. This was on a MSD crank trigger distributor, sbc.


How did you determine this was happening?


It’s called spark scatter from ionization in the cap. To help eliminate it one adds two 1/4” holes on opposite sides, in the side of the cap between the plug towers even with the side of the rotor center. My caps are drilled like this.More ventilation. MSD caps have a very small covered vent on top.

Check the free play from the distributor to cam gear by moving the rotor back and forth. Should not be excessive.

When inspecting the rotor, remove, turn over, and look at the bottom where the rivet holds the tang to the pointer. If loose it’ll arc there.



 
Posts: 2457 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Trophy
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Holytown,
I had chased everything else and it was all good. Spoke to MSD and they recommended to try it, that was 20 plus years ago. I’ve done everyone that way since never had same issue.
 
Posts: 14 | Location: North Carolina | Registered: April 21, 2021Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR S/Pro
Picture of Lenny5160
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quote:
Originally posted by 1320racer:
The hottest plug I would run is a -9. Many on alky are running a -10


-8 plug is just fine. I run -8 on the injected dragster and -7 on the carbureted door car.


Tony Leonard
 
Posts: 3157 | Location: Inver Grove Heights, MN | Registered: March 18, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Sportsman
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Getting ready to order the good MSD wires this morning. Seems like that will be a step in the right direction.

I feel like I should mention this, but I think it happened when removing the plug boot.

After removing the #5 plug, the porcelain fell off one of the sides of the plug. The summit plug boot felt like it was glued to the plug (Even used Dielectric grease in the boot). I am not 100 % sure if I cracked it upon removal, or if it somehow happened while it was in the head? Obviously if this was the case while it was in the car operational it would cause an ignition issue.

Second note, the summit brand wires are extremely hard to get on the plugs to begin with. They don't have that positive clicking sound that other wire types seem to have. This leads me to believe they were making a mediocre connection to begin with.

As previously stated, going to order the new wires and go from there. Just don't want anyone to get into this same situation!
 
Posts: 664 | Location: UTD | Registered: September 25, 2019Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
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I would not get the MSD plug wires.

Get these. https://www.smileysracing.com/...ails.aspx?i=8133&c=0

They are the Moroso Ultra 40 and very good.

Or you can get theses (Same thing) for $70 more.
https://www.amazon.com/Moroso-...a-624627044847&psc=1


https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/
"Dunning-Kruger Effect"
-a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge.

Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue.

4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion
 
Posts: 4008 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by markemark:
quote:
Originally posted by Holytown:
quote:
Originally posted by fo'braker:
I’ve experienced the same issue and chased everything. For me it was an issue in the distributor cap, allowing arcing to jump around at higher RPMs. Vent was open however o removed the little plastic tab and also drilled a 1/4 inch hole to allow extra venting. Problem went away. This was on a MSD crank trigger distributor, sbc.


How did you determine this was happening?


It’s called spark scatter from ionization in the cap. To help eliminate it one adds two 1/4” holes on opposite sides, in the side of the cap between the plug towers even with the side of the rotor center. My caps are drilled like this.More ventilation. MSD caps have a very small covered vent on top.

Check the free play from the distributor to cam gear by moving the rotor back and forth. Should not be excessive.

When inspecting the rotor, remove, turn over, and look at the bottom where the rivet holds the tang to the pointer. If loose it’ll arc there.





I hope you never develop a fuel leak. Get a cap adapt for that.

I had a cap I drilled a hole for phasing the rotor and had a tiny fuel leak on a fitting I didn't tighten completely. I had a few ounce's of fuel sitting on the floor of the intake, with a fuel line barely dripping fuel.

If you saw how quickly that got out of hand, you wouldn't have the holes.

And the water hose was only 15 steps from me.

I don't like that, get ya a cap adapt.
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Curly1:
I would not get the MSD plug wires.

Get these. https://www.smileysracing.com/...ails.aspx?i=8133&c=0

Are they all 90* ends? What's the resistance within them?


They are the Moroso Ultra 40 and very good.

Or you can get theses (Same thing) for $70 more.
https://www.amazon.com/Moroso-...a-624627044847&psc=1
 
Posts: 664 | Location: UTD | Registered: September 25, 2019Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
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MSD plug wires are no good? Confused

That's news to me.

My time slips must not be evidence to the contrary.

I wouldn't buy anything else but MSD wires.

I do buy the wires, purchaser makes up 50 % of ends.
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
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I am not saying MSD plug wires are no good, i AM saying Moroso ultra 40 is better.


I said I would not run them and would run the Moroso Ultra 40. I think they are much better wires and I have have much better results from them. I have ran both for many years and the Moroso wires are better.


As for the question do they have 90* ends? Yes, They have several different wires to choose from. Get what fits your car best. What is the Ohms? I do not know or care. I had a lot less random ignition problems when I went to the better wires. That is enough for me. You do not like them then dont run them, get what ever you want.

Not going to argue with you about it, I told you what is better and told you where you can buy them at a pretty good price so from there you can take it or leave it I don't care.

Have a nice day Great White Cone Hunter.


https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/
"Dunning-Kruger Effect"
-a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge.

Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue.

4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion
 
Posts: 4008 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Curly1:
I am not saying MSD plug wires are no good, i AM saying Moroso ultra 40 is better.


I said I would not run them and would run the Moroso Ultra 40. I think they are much better wires and I have have much better results from them. I have ran both for many years and the Moroso wires are better.


As for the question do they have 90* ends? Yes, They have several different wires to choose from. Get what fits your car best. What is the Ohms? I do not know or care. I had a lot less random ignition problems when I went to the better wires. That is enough for me. You do not like them then dont run them, get what ever you want.

Not going to argue with you about it, I told you what is better and told you where you can buy them at a pretty good price so from there you can take it or leave it I don't care.

Have a nice day Great White Cone Hunter.


Let's pretend hypothetically, if your car produced these timeslips, ever in its existence, would you switch to another brand spark plug wire, other than MSD?

Laughing Hard
 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post



DRR Trophy
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Mike Rietow I hear you on the MSD caps and I have been drilling them for years so its just habbit. But I think I will take some advice from you as most of those caps were on dragsters. Been running door cars for awhile and being under the hood with a cap with holes in the top for num.1 and 4 holes around the perimeter probably a little on the iffy side. Mike the MSD wires are great and we use them and also Taylor wires. Either I say it or 1320racer will the Summit or Jegs house brand are most likely Chinese. Alky will find a weak ignition and also as you said a problem with fuel supply.
 
Posts: 318 | Location: ohio | Registered: June 06, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Sportsman
Picture of Stephen Hughes
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by Curly1:
I would not get the MSD plug wires.

Get these. https://www.smileysracing.com/...ails.aspx?i=8133&c=0

They are the Moroso Ultra 40 and very good.

Or you can get theses (Same thing) for $70 more.
https://www.amazon.com/Moroso-...a-624627044847&psc=1


Thanks for the link on the smileys wires. I usually run the moroso ultra 40 sleeveless wires but these are just a bit more with sleeves.

Mike, I’ve lit one up with rotor phase hole in the cap and fuel leak too. No more holes in the cap for me!!


The Pull-Out....for when you want to work smarter, not harder!!!
 
Posts: 336 | Location: Texas | Registered: September 12, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by SLICKSTER:
Mike Rietow I hear you on the MSD caps and I have been drilling them for years so its just habbit. But I think I will take some advice from you as most of those caps were on dragsters. Been running door cars for awhile and being under the hood with a cap with holes in the top for num.1 and 4 holes around the perimeter probably a little on the iffy side. Mike the MSD wires are great and we use them and also Taylor wires. Either I say it or 1320racer will the Summit or Jegs house brand are most likely Chinese. Alky will find a weak ignition and also as you said a problem with fuel supply.


Good man, sure is.

I used this tonight to phase the cap and rotor, any hint of fuel on the intake and there will be a fire with this thing. I still use it but take right back off, when done.

The 3, 4, 5 oz puddle of fuel on my intake under the plenum, which went off in fire, was no where near the hole you see, obviously.

Good man, learn from my mistake.


 
Posts: 9398 | Location: Madeira Beach Fl. | Registered: June 12, 2018Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
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quote:
Get these. https://www.smileysracing.com/...ails.aspx?i=8133&c=0

They are the Moroso Ultra 40 and very good.



I have several questions about these wires having never used them.

I have never used under header plug wires but would like to do so for a change I am making next month.

I’m looking at these Smiley (Moroso) plug wires in the HEI “Under” header application to be used on a SBC. The wires appear to be finished with boots on both ends with a coil terminal that is selective and self-installed.

These sets are apparently universal. Is there excess wire when used on a SBC vs a BBC ??

When routing under the header, would it be wise to run through some type of sleeve or is open Ok??

I assume you can bundle these wires together without any cross firing pulses, Yes??
 
Posts: 2457 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Top Comp
Picture of Curly1
posted Hide Post
quote:
Originally posted by markemark:
quote:
Get these. https://www.smileysracing.com/...ails.aspx?i=8133&c=0

They are the Moroso Ultra 40 and very good.




I have several questions about these wires having never used them.

I have never used under header plug wires but would like to do so for a change I am making next month.

I’m looking at these Smiley (Moroso) plug wires in the HEI “Under” header application to be used on a SBC. The wires appear to be finished with boots on both ends with a coil terminal that is selective and self-installed.

These sets are apparently universal. Is there excess wire when used on a SBC vs a BBC ??

When routing under the header, would it be wise to run through some type of sleeve or is open Ok??

I assume you can bundle these wires together without any cross firing pulses, Yes??


They work very good, mine go behind the motor and down close to diaper for a nice fit. you will see, they are numbered. No you do not need a sleeve or anything on them.


https://postimg.cc/gallery/np3zpruo/
"Dunning-Kruger Effect"
-a type of Cognitive bias where people with little expertise or ability assume they have superior expertise or ability. This overestimation occurs as a result of the fact that they do not have enough knowledge to know they don't have enough knowledge.

Before you argue with someone ask yourself, "Is this person mentally mature enough to grasp the concept of a different perspective?" If not there is no point to argue.

4X NE2 CHAMPION. 2020 TDRA NE2 Champion
 
Posts: 4008 | Location: United States of Texas | Registered: April 02, 2011Reply With QuoteReport This Post
DRR Pro
posted Hide Post
I just had a chance to look at the Smiley/Moroso SBC under exhaust plug wire set that I received today and have this to say about them.

I liked the sheathing that the wires were in and looked well made. Then I put my meter to them and read 380 ohms per foot. Really??

Stupid me, I should have asked this question prior to ordering. I thought they were high quality.

If the sheathing is available separately, I’d use it on a set of MSD wires without the distributor ends and make my own set as I have always done. I prefer less than 100 ohms per foot of wire. MSD are 50.
 
Posts: 2457 | Location: 53056 | Registered: December 30, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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