Installed rack and pinion on car. Due to location of cross bar upon which to mount it to,alignment to the steering arm and the hole to bolt to is not perfectly straight. I need to add longer steering arm and moveing box back would be ideal. It is not a ideal world. I can move back a little but arms will be agngles back away from straight alignment. Adding a 1" longer steering arm makes that a little worst since can only move back about half what I need.

Question how straight does it need to be? Is a Angle between steering box and steering arm ok?

Having to slow steering down some. With old funny car style drag link car went straight. Last few shots it looks loikie snake crawling away.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: wideopen231,

Soften springs and drop it all the way down. Measure it, then raise it up to top out shocks and measure toe in again. You will have to raise or lower tie rod ends or your box until you reduce as much bump steer as possible. Also if you can not get it perfect remember if you have toe OUT you are out of control. Better to have a little more toe in than you need than toed out.

Mine was kind of a mess and took a long time to get it right. What I did was used a long board as a lever so I could raise it and lower it quickly and easily see what it was doing. Used blocks to hold it there while measuring.

It may not end up perfectly straight through out the range of shock travel but you can get it where it works good in most of your useable range. Also remember it is more critical at the finish line 150+ MPH than it is on starting line.

Sorry what are these shocks and spring things you talk of? Only springs ion FEd are valve and return on throttle.

How do you have a rack on a front engine dragster would love to see some pictures steering column must be crazy

Will try toi get pics. Nothing crazy. Comes out side under top rail. follows same as dragling using same guides. goes uber to rail behng fual tank and threw tank to the rack. Simple as can be. will try to post been so long since posted pics i forget what site I was using to down size file and upload here.LOL

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
Sorry what are these shocks and spring things you talk of? Only springs ion FEd are valve and return on throttle.

Then that is even easier, just raise or lower the rod ends and or rack and pinion to same height. A little angle should not hurt anything but you still want the tie rods to be relatively straight in line with the rack. That is not going to slow it down much though.

Moving rack up/down, forward/backwards in relation to the tie rod end only affects cars that have suspension as it relates to bump steer. In your case with no suspension, less total turning radius but how much will depend on how far out of alignment or off level your rack is in relation to your tie rod end pivot point.

Ackerman won't be affected because that is built into the spindle when its designed/fabricated.

I did not see it making any real effect. I have over looked simple shyt before.

Talked with Frank Parks today and he said probably need 6" steering arms instead of 5". Making new set of steering arms tonight and working on moving box if chassis diagnols allow. figure can get maybe 1" movement back.Need two but guess 1 will have to do. If had new nose pices done I could move battery foward,move steering box and flip arms around to frontside, Win win battery more foward more effect weight and all around better. Thats later project maybe while sitting around with cast on foot for diabetic BS.