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Bracket Talk Bracket Talk Forum Tech Talk - by Abruzzi Strange 3.812 bore vs. 3.250 bore third memberGo | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply | |
| Strange 3.812 bore vs. 3.250 bore third member | Login/Join |
| DRR Top Comp |
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DRR Top Comp |
The 3.812 is the way to go. You can run 40 spline with the aluminum spool. I know there is no aluminum spool for the 3.250 unless maybe running 35 spline and not sure about that one. If not for having 2 of the 3.250 aluminum housing already I would have one with aluminum spool. If the weight savings are part of your reason to buy.Check out Neil and Parks they have aluminum adjusters for them. Not a lot but it is weight savings. America home of free. Brought to you by 2nd amendment. | |||
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Also the smaller bore contains less cap stability. Definitely want the big bore with a high powered dragster with big tire shake possible. Small tire, the small bore is fine up to the point the 35 spline axles are adequate. If you try to run a 3.250 bore case in a high powered dragster, good chance it'll push the bearing out the side of the cap, threads and all. | |||
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I need to lose a little weight. The new goal is 6.70's at 110-112 mph. I have two 62 lb AGM batteries I'm gonna replace with one 70 lb AGM DIEHARD battery as well. Should be close to losing 100lbs. When the air gets good, it'll go 112mph. Should go 110 mph this weekend with these two changes and the new gear I have sitting here.  | |||
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What do ya'll like for pinion bearing preload? I got 15-17 here with a Pyle Bros solid pinion spacer, same as a Strange. Think 15-17 be alright new bearings? I'd kinda like to use this solid pinion spacer over the adjustable with shims, which came with the kit.   | |||
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DRR S/Pro |
I think 15-17 is what Richmond recommends with new bearings. Personally I like mine a little tighter maybe 25-30. I guarantee it will loosen up after a couple of runs. Also, us a good GL 6 or better synthetic lube. Dave "It is usually futile to try to talk facts and analysis to people who are enjoying a sense of moral superiority in their ignorance." -Thomas Sowell | |||
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I think that's a good approach high power. Do you use an adjustable pinion spacer with shims, or solid? I got lucky in this instance and don't have to trouble the machinist with cutting this solid spacer, if I go with 15-17 in lbs pinion bearing preload using the Pyle Bros solid spacer, I just happen to have . | |||
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Alright, one more photo, it might help someone with more ambition for drag racing, than funds. If I were using an adjustable pinion bearing spacer with shims and new bearings, I think I'd set it up 25 in lbs or so, definitely.  | |||
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Adjustable. Most shim i have ever used was maybe .020. Heck I don't think you get more than .025 with the kit. Solid spacer is fine it just requires have that machinist buddy or your own lathe. I have a lathe but for the time involved I just use the adjustable from strange. Dave "It is usually futile to try to talk facts and analysis to people who are enjoying a sense of moral superiority in their ignorance." -Thomas Sowell | |||
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 Dave "It is usually futile to try to talk facts and analysis to people who are enjoying a sense of moral superiority in their ignorance." -Thomas Sowell | |||
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DRR Pro |
I have always set mine up around 25-30 also with new bearings and 18-20 with used bearings. | |||
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DRR Pro |
Rear end bearing preload is in my opinion where tighter is better than looser. Honestly I just go by feel on the pinion, and tighten the side adjusters as much as my spindley spanner wrench will withstand. Lots of different ways to skin this cat but I haven't had any bearing failures since I did my first one alooong time ago. Also worked in a pro rear end shop for several years after retirement. Like Dave mentioned above it won't take long for high HP to make something tight a bit looser. Bruce Lee  Experience is what you get when you don't get what you want. | |||
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America home of free. Brought to you by 2nd amendment. | |||
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51 lbs on the left complete. 35 lbs on the right empty iron. -82 lbs total including minus one battery. It'll go 111 mph Saturday night. 6.75 111 mph n/a, 100 degrees in the shade on 8" wide DOT street tires, converter slipping 12% high gear only.  This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow, | |||
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DRR Sportsman |
Why dont you put one 16V battery that weighs 30LBS in you car. I have no idea in this day and age why anyone would be running a 12 volt battery. Just about all of your electronics are good for 20 volts and everything just flat out runs better.  Worlds Quickest And Fastest 71 Cutlass On The Planet Earth | |||
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There's an idea. A friend gave me the DIEHARD AGM in exchange for some work on his car. He way over paid by buying the battery, for the little work I did. I'll run it for a year or so, out of respect. Killer battery I like , it's just a tank 64 lbs. | |||
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I put a lithium 16 volt in my car. It only weight 9 pounds. Worlds Quickest And Fastest 71 Cutlass On The Planet Earth | |||
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NICE! I'm gonna look into that a little. | |||
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Loving this 8" wide DOT street tire combo. Lots of face time anyone dial'd 5.80 and up. Been working on it, lots left to do yet. It's rattling off 1.65 60ft times consecutively now. Still more work to do but she's getting there. Love it, rolls off smooth like a Cadillac. Set the tire pressure one time, never changes.  This message has been edited. Last edited by: Mike Rietow, | |||
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DRR Pro |
Why not shift at say 1.20 out with one battery? should go 112 mph. | |||
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Bracket Talk Bracket Talk Forum Tech Talk - by Abruzzi Strange 3.812 bore vs. 3.250 bore third member
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