For those of you wrapping a rag around your small K&N filter on your vacuum tank or valve cover breather filter to prevent oil coming out, NAPA has a foam wrap that fits over the filter perfectly PN#7-02275. They are less than $2 a piece.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: "The Bender",

quote:

Originally posted by daman200j:
to keep your drag slicks in good condition and hooking. I like to use soap and a degreaser and wash or scrub the slick part of the tire. You will be amazed at how much oil comes out of the tire if u have never did this b4. This oil would be oil that comes out of tire when doing burnout,in my opinion. I notice after a pass my tires always are more sticky than anyone elses by the amount of grass rocks that are hanging from them at trailer.

I might have to try that one!

Great thread!

A little valve grinding compound on the tip of your phillips screwdriver will help grab those worn out heads pretty good.

I about had a heat attack today when I noticed a hole in my new Dart Big M block. I just wanted to let you know it's OK for this hole.

It's inside the pan rail near the cavity for the mech fuel pump. It's a machined area and the hole looks like a mistake and maybe, but it will not matter because on the other side is that mech fuel pump boss not an oil passage as I thought when I saw it and about keeled over.

have fun

For those that race and have bad eyes like me, I did something that helped me see...so figured I'd share.

I can't see at distance and have 4 diopters correction to get to 20/30. When the glasses are on I can't see close so have progressive lenses. For you that have them, you know about the narrow slot that lets you see at distance if your head angle is just right. At night with cataracts, things just get worse. For day racing I have single vision sun glasses and they work great, but I have to take them off to read a time slip. I can just barely see my delay box to make changes with them on so try and set that if I can in lanes with glasses off.

At night I could not see the score board to confirm a dial with the progressive and the sun glasses are just too dark.

I took and old set of usable frames and for $20 Costco put in cheap single vision lenses. $30 more for coating, but I just when el-cheapo as this is just at night on track.

The good news is they worked great Sat night.

Never lend your comb to a bald man!

quote:

Originally posted by Racer:
Never lend your comb to a bald man!

LMAO

BBC Rod on piston detail
When puting the conecting rod on the piston.
The side of the rod big end that has the filet edge to clear crank will always be on the same side as the exhaust valve on the piston.
I always was clueless on this and resorted to holding it up to the block and crank to get it right. Never realized they are all the same.

Now if I can just learn a trick like this to remember the head tq pattern and the ring gap position

Don't cross your bridges before you come to them, unless you're following someone who burns them behind them

If you have a machined surface and you would like to not use a gasket, Hondabond sealant works great. Honda uses it to seal the case halves of motorcycle engines. If any protrudes inside, it won't fall in and clog your oil passages like silicone will. I think yamabond and threebond are similar.
I use it on the cast support cover on my 12 bolt, the gasket always looked shiney like the cover was moving around. Not now.

Permatex Ultra Grey is made for that purpose also.

If you toss a single edge razor blade in the gasket tool drawer make sure it doesn't land in the tray with the o ring picks sharp side up.

Just sayin' and yes, I did.

A single edge razor blade is .009" thick, so if you ever find yourself in need of a feeler gauge that thickness..... there ya go..

So I can shave in the morning and set my valves at .009 that evening? With only 16 cuts.

Cellophane wrapper from cnacer stick pack is perfect for setting any points ingition. Set crank where you want timing. Align rotor to the cylinder. With cellophane(how ever you spell it) between point rotate towards opening as it would while running. The very instant it will slip free you are set dead on.
To test back engine up 10 or 15* then towards setting while lightly tugging on plastic.If it frees up at timing setting your good to go.
Yea nobody has points in ignition any more. Mallory style magneto does.Plus you don't always have timing light.

number one tip. BE RICH EVERYTHING ELSE WILL BE TAKEN CARE OF AFTER THAT .

quote:

Originally posted by wideopen231:
number one tip. BE RICH EVERYTHING ELSE WILL BE TAKEN CARE OF AFTER THAT .

Well, I guess I'm screwed.....

Upgrade your stereo and get a heck of a rear view camera. For FREE.. Almost.
Into music in everything and had a pop up stereo in the vette (7 inch monitor) that I installed a rear view camera on the plate just for fun. Got to thinking..

Took the stereo out the vette and installed it in the dodge, run a 60foot CCTV ($30 dollars) line all the way down the top edge of the 48 trailer (goose neck) and brought it over to the middle over the hook up and dropped down to the bed. I have a head rack behind the cab for loading and unloading the boats at night or early morning with LEDs work lights on them so installed two cameras on that.
You can buy off e bay the camera mounts that go around the third brake light in the top .
Video switcher on e bay was less than 20 dollars so have three rear view cameras now. One for watching the boats or anything else you want to hook to shot straight back. One at the end of the race trailer watching everything that comes up behind you, and one for hooking up the goose neck and it will almost see the ball on the back of the tail gate for the boat but will put you within one inch or two. All through the stereo.
Best cameras you can get are home security color cameras. They run off 12v so will work off the truck. They have more pixels for night vision, lot cleaner picture than the cheaper rear view cameras and I can see about 40 to 45 foot behind the trialer on both sides the HWY just like it was daylight while rolling at night.
If your uncomfortable with the longer trailers you could easily mount one of these cameras on a small plate on front top the trailer facing at a angle and see everything on that side the trailer..
For you open trailer guys or boaters, its a really good safety idea.





Little more storage.
You guys with cars might not have to do this but I have to unhook and raise the nose of he gooseneck to get the dragster out and you can get to the boxes then. If you need more storage flip a set of side rail tool boxes around and mount them on the fender. They don't stick up but a couple of inches over the bed and you still have lots of room and more than enough room for a generator box in the front mounted under your back window. Blue cover in the second photo is the generator.
Never have enough storage.


Added a little Bling to the trailer.
Want a little more security on the tail end add a pickup truck light bar just under the clearance lights. They come with stop and turn so just added a low voltage extra little bit of security and if you have a flat, and on the side of the road, those things on 4 ways really stand out when their blinking.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: LittleRiver,

Seen Ax01's post about bee's and wasp stings.
Any of you that have a goose neck are use to those critters and bird trying make your trailer their home. They love making nest up under that 8 foot part in the front and I hate turning my head and looking at them (wasp)pissed off while climbing up under the thing hooking up and doing a wasp inspection every single week when hooking up. Hate those things.
Enclose it.
Took about 3 hours with the GF and about 35 dollars at Lowes. One roll of screen wire, and a few strips of metal molding.
Brought the light cord back and drilled a hole at the top of the part behind the back of the truck and installed the plug on the back bumper over by the center. Works perfect. Did change the electric plug and installed a box on the front of the goose neck but only need a 4 foot quick plug in cord to reach the generator now, and have the shore power plug in behind the shed so it ends messing with all that line. Actually all that extra line is what came off the trailer so no cost to me building it in the cord anyway.




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Posted this in the dragster lights section but disconnected the lights on the atv and installed one of these LED lights. It doubles the standard headlights and make a 1/3 saddle and jst clamped one to the top rail on the dragster. All the light you need and simple to make the saddle. Punch this in on e bay. It will take you to the lights. > ( 2 18w slim work lights)
Best thing is there LED. Super low voltage draw.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: LittleRiver,

A little tip for those of you dealing with slippery trailers: They are now selling spray in liner stuff in typical spray paint cans. A dusting of this will solve your issues. I used this on my long metal painted ramps, runner strips on the wood deck, and all the perimeter metal frame around the deck. Solved any concern of tire slippage in loading, or shoe slipping when stepping up or down from deck. I think 2-3 spray cans knocked out all my concern areas.

ABS plastic can be welded with a small paintbrush and some acetone. Brush on or into the crack and hold the parts together. If there are holes munch up some scrap ABS and mix with acetone to make a putty.
Other materials can be repaired using baking soda and super glue. It makes a cement.